[Skipper_mtb]

So I've got some play in my rear wheel causing me some bother, I've been trying to track it down for a while with no luck. It's 100% not any of the frame pivots as I've torqued them down to spec and even put a dab of thread luck on the treads to keep them there. So the next step is trying to tear down the hub / free hub body situation, is there anything obvious which could be loose in there? I've got no experience with this but I figured now's the time to learn!

 

[Skipper_mtb]

I've also checked the tightness of the raw section here with a cone spanner and it was so tight I couldn't actually loosen it! Not sure if it came from the factory that tight or the guy I bought the bike from had bigger arms than me :lol:

 

[scottzg]

Looks like you have a cup and cone hub. Most likely the jam nut on one side has come loose and will need to be re-set. If it happened on the drive side you will most likely need to remove the cassette to get access.

 

[Skipper_mtb]

Looks like you have a cup and cone hub. Most likely the jam nut on one side has come loose and will need to be re-set. If it happened on the drive side you will most likely need to remove the cassette to get access.

That's exactly the kind of help I was looking for, thanks!

 

[LMN]

I would not necessarily rule out the frame. If bearing on the frame are worn everything can be torqued to spec and there will still be play.

I would check the wheel first though.

 

[Skipper_mtb]

I would not necessarily rule out the frame. If bearing on the frame are worn everything can be torqued to spec and there will still be play.

I would check the wheel first though.

The bikes not got that many miles on it yet but I checked them all over when I re-greased them all and they seemed good to go. That is a good point though

 

[Skipper_mtb]

Hi again all, I've been finding the world of rear axles to be a particularly confusing and painful one. I've currently got a set of WTB i25 rims laced to novatec DHT142S hubs and its given me nothing but headaches. The lock nut has repeatedly been coming loose giving the whole wheel loads of side to side play and the rim has bent in more ways than I knew was possible! Here is another picture of the axle, it has got a lock nut like you said:

Before this bike I had a DH bike with DT Swiss FR1950 wheels which were excellent, after four years of abuse they still run true and smoothly without any play. I noticed that they seem to have a different style of axle:

I'm currently looking to upgrade my cheapy WTB Wheels to a nice set of Hunt Enduro Wides:
https://www.huntbikewheels.com/coll...ndurowide-mtb-wheelset?variant=12211070566477

I wanted to check that these come with the same style of axle as the DT Swiss wheels had? I never want to deal with the lock nut issues again! lol

Cheers for any help

 

[mack_turtle]

Why is the lock nuts coming loose? Are you adjusting and tightening it with proper tools? I've done this hundreds of times and never had this problem. Maybe a dab of thread-locker will help.

Bent up rims means you're pushing the bike really hard or the spoke tension has not been maintained.

 

[Skipper_mtb]

I couldnt get it right with the lock nut and it needed new bearings so I ended up taking it to my local bike shop and they got it tightened down right, two rides later its as bad as it was before! As for the spoke tension I keep making sure its all in check but after every ride I've got a new dent/ bend. I ride almost exclusively bike parks here in the UK and usually with uplift so I do tend to put parts through the ringer as it were. I can imagine the uplift trailers are pretty harsh on hubs too since the bikes held by the rear wheel. Never had this many problems with the DH bike though

 

[Skipper_mtb]

Plus I would quite like to make the upgrade to a wider rim so this would be a good excuse, 25mm inner width feel too tight for the style of riding I do