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Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I discovered the rear wheel on my 05 ETSX appeared to be offset about 5-6mm towards the non-drive side. This was easily verified when I measure the gap between the rim and the lower suspension arms. At first I thought I had a problem with the dish of my rear wheel, but I carefully checked the dish and trueness of the wheel and its was spot on.

I then noticed the drive side dropout was allowing about 1-2 mm of fore/aft movement of the axle when not clamped by the QR. If I deliberately pushed the drive side of the wheel towards the back of the bike while clamping downing the QR this removed about 3-4 mm of this misalignment. On closer inspection what I found was that the threaded part of the axle has compressed the aluminum in the dropout in the forward direction and because the axle extends only about half way into the dropout the metal that is compressed is the softer aluminum of the replaceable derailleur hanger. Seems like this is a really bad design to have all the weight of the axle pressing into such soft metal. I took a look at an older Instinct frame and it had the exact same issue, only the fore/aft play was even worse.

As a temporary solution, I've fashioned a tin shim to fill in the displaced metal in the drop out and made sure to clamp the QR very tight so that hopefully the wheel will not shift forward again, but this is a pretty half assed solution to a rather unsettling problem.

Has anyone else encountered such a problem with Rocky Mountain frames? I'm wondering if the SRAM QR's I use have somehow contributed to this problem by not clamping the wheel tight enough?

Karl
 

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1946:2006:2066
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replace the hanger

seems the obvious first step.

Other than that I haven't had a problem.
Then I use bolt on skewers.
Actually Kryptonite locking skewers.

michael
 

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Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Agreed, but since this is a newly installed replacement derailleur hanger I'm going to see if I can get away with the metal shim I created for now. After researching this problem I'm now suspicious that the SRAM quick release skewers I was using weren't providing enough clamping force so I switched to good old Shimano ones to see if that solves the problem.

Karl
 

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LBS Manager
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If your weel has realy shifted forward as you say your rear disk brake should be totaly out of whack. I have a similar misalignment issue with my frame but I think it was the whole frame being missaligned when welded. I my case it is verry insignifigant and I can't notice it wile riding so I am not overly conceren by it but either way if your weel shifted your brakes would be rubbing bad.
 

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Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeap, my brakes were most likely at some point adjusted to compensate for the misalignment and after correcting this misalignment I did notice them rubbing a slight bit. Fortunately I run Avid mechanicals so its a trivial mater of loosening two bolts to realign them.

At this point my rear wheel is about 2-3mm out of alignment so I'm probably going to live with it as long as it doesn't get worse again. It is a bit disappointing to see that Rocky can't weld up such a high end frame with a little more accuracy though.

Karl
 

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LBS Manager
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Yea I feel you on that one. Mine is not out buy neerly as much as yours and there is no deforming of the dropout. I would never have noticed mine if I wasn't realy anal and didn't measure everything. I actualy discovered mine because of a poorly built wheel it was out buy 8 mm but 7to 7.5 of that was the wheel being out of dish so I can live with about half a mill.
 

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1946:2006:2066
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OUCH ... just measured mine ...

Johnny Hair Boy said:
Yea I feel you on that one. Mine is not out buy neerly as much as yours and there is no deforming of the dropout. I would never have noticed mine if I wasn't realy anal and didn't measure everything. I actualy discovered mine because of a poorly built wheel it was out buy 8 mm but 7to 7.5 of that was the wheel being out of dish so I can live with about half a mill.
2+ mm

Must be just as anal. Never thought to question it.
So long as the wheel ran straight and true, which it does.

One more reason to get into therapy.:rolleyes:

Edit: Still, could be the dish isn't perfect.

michael
 

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Drinkin' the 29er KoolAid
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1,544 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Johnny Hair Boy said:
This is starting to look like a common problem. Maybee they're suposed to be that way:confused:
Hah, I seriously doubt that! I think its just the reality of manufacturing precision. When you consider a 2mm deflection at the rim is a very small amount at the dropouts. Now that's assuming the wheel is angled 2mm to one side or the other, but perhaps its just shifted left or right but still rolling straight? I certainly don't have the equipment to measure a frame to that level of accuracy so who knows...

Karl
 

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1946:2006:2066
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not losing any sleep over it

It's been that way since August 2002.
Yea...I've got one of the early yet-to-break ETSX's.:)

michael
 

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1946:2006:2066
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sixteen months to go ...

kwarwick said:
I hope you had some wood to knock on when you typed that. :D

Karl
just did ... does it count after the fact :)

michael
 

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Funny you should mention this misalignment problem. I just experienced a similar problem with my 2007 Slayer SXC. After three new seatstays and one warranteed chain stay, the alignment seems better, but at times, still looks a little off. My mind may be playing tricks on me, but I'm suspicious that the front triangle is out of alignment as well...damn.

I'm bummed becuase I LOVE this bike. The reason i bought a Rocky is becuase I wanted a precision, high quality rig. This misalignment is disappointing at best. So much so that it makes me think that I should've bought an el-cheapo Giant. I know plenty of folks that ride more mass-produced type bikes that haven't EVER had alignment issues.

Please tell me I'm wrong to think this way...I want to stick with the Rocky, but am having a hard time shaking the idea that the frame is out of whack. And, no, I don't notice it while riding, just while pampering the bike in the basement.

-badgermtb
 

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ups and downs
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If your LBS has a Park centering gauge for the TS-2 truing stand, have them take the rear wheel out and put the centering gauge in the dropouts with the frame upside down. It should be immediately evident if the dropouts are not aligned properly as the centering gauge will point off center. With the asymmetrical chainstays it is hard to eyeball the wheel to chainstay spacing.

The centering gauge will have some side-to-side play unless you put some washers on it as it has flanges that are 127mm apart rather than 135mm, but that won't matter in terms of it pointing out the dropouts being out of square with the bike's center line.

Also check your derailleur hanger. I found my hanger was loose to swivel front to back by a couple of millimetres, even though the bolt was tight and still painted in. I switched to a North Shore Billet hanger which seemed to fit a bit tighter.
 

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Scooterist
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1,211 Posts
I have a couple of cable hangers that have just been tacked on and they have forgot to finish welding them.

After ten years of owning a RM, I will be looking somewhere else for my next bike. Not worth the extra money over taiwan produced stuff especialy as the flatline range is made there anyway.
 

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ups and downs
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fux said:
I have a couple of cable hangers that have just been tacked on and they have forgot to finish welding them.

After ten years of owning a RM, I will be looking somewhere else for my next bike. Not worth the extra money over taiwan produced stuff especialy as the flatline range is made there anyway.
That sucks, have you got some pics?
 

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Scooterist
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No pics, but I will take some tonight or tomorrow.

One of rockies largest selling points to me was the quality controll. This frame must have slipped though, although I find it hard that it had gone unoticed.

I paid almost $3000 for frame and shock, my next frame will be comming from a custom builder...... at not much more cost.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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Yep that's just tacked on.... but then again that's hardly going to ever have much stress on it.
 

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ups and downs
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That seems to be fairly standard practice these days, here's two shots of my ETSX Team frame cable guides and the red one is that same cable guide as yours on my SXC Canuck. Although the disc hose guide got a little buzz on the SXC. Maybe it's just to reduce the amount of heat put into the tubes.
 

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