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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i've got about 75 hours of ride time on an HDR and it has developed a clicking sound and feel in the rear wheel. its most noticeable when leaning the bike over to the left and weighting the back while riding. but I can also feel the clicking resonating through to my crank/pedals as I coast straight down the street. i've removed the brake to troubleshoot and i can't find what the problem is. wheel bearing? any one have experience with this?
 

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Things to check:
rear axle is tight
chainring bolts are tight
pedals are tight
suspension linkage bolts are tight
rear der is tight
rear der hanger is tight
shock bolts are tight
limbo chips are tight
crank preload is correct and cranks are tight
cassette is tight

If everything is tight, take them all off and grease.
 

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What kind of wheels? I just traced a click on my Ripley to the Easton Haven front hub; it is a problem with the bearing. I'd never had that before, and the click was random enough I knew it wasn't cranks or bottom bracket or any of those sorts of problems. I could tell when I took the wheel off and spun it while holding the ends of the axle; I could feel the roughness. As it has gotten worse, I've started being able to feel it when riding. It's the first time I've had a wheel bearing click, but I confirmed it was the wheel by swapping with a friend - whose bike started clicking with my wheel!
 

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i've got about 75 hours of ride time on an HDR and it has developed a clicking sound and feel in the rear wheel. its most noticeable when leaning the bike over to the left and weighting the back while riding. but I can also feel the clicking resonating through to my crank/pedals as I coast straight down the street. i've removed the brake to troubleshoot and i can't find what the problem is. wheel bearing? any one have experience with this?
I just went through this myself on my HD. Clicking and popping that I could feel in the handlebar and figured it was the headset.

I ended up trying everything that D-bug mentioned,one by one, and a few other things like cable clips and headset spacers.
It turns out the lower link had one seized bearing and the another that was pretty much shot.
This is fourth round of bearing replacement I have had to do in the last two years on that lower link.
Keep an eye on it and the torque specs on the bolts.
 

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I would be most suspicious of the item at the top of d-bug's list as I was plagued by a similar click for a couple weeks after getting my HDR.

Nate at BikeCo pointed out a different (newer?) version of the Maxle instructions/manual that described threading it most of the way in and torquing to 4.5 N-m (from the drive side) before closing the lever. This has solved my major clicking problem.

My other "click" came from a fraction of lateral movement between the shock bushings and the bushing spacers on either side. Whenever there was a heavy enough torsional load on the bike (from hard cornering or pedaling) the shock would load up and shift over to the other side. Again, this was just a fraction of an inch and solved by adding a layer of rim tape on one side of the shock bushing to take up the slack.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just went through this myself on my HD. Clicking and popping that I could feel in the handlebar and figured it was the headset.

I ended up trying everything that D-bug mentioned,one by one, and a few other things like cable clips and headset spacers.
It turns out the lower link had one seized bearing and the another that was pretty much shot.
This is fourth round of bearing replacement I have had to do in the last two years on that lower link.
Keep an eye on it and the torque specs on the bolts.
its the stock HDR wheel. speed tune/flow ex. I'm pretty much certain its the bearing too. are these bearings replaceable?
 

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What kind of drivetrain do you have, I have seen some sram clutch derr. Making this clicking while coasting since they are applying force against the chain movement.

I also had a similar problem with an intense spider comp and it came from the derailleur bolt, but the sound came while pedaling, just apply some grease on the bolt and the hanger and the noise went off
 

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its the stock HDR wheel. speed tune/flow ex. I'm pretty much certain its the bearing too. are these bearings replaceable?
I'd go for the Maxle rear axle also. Like d-bug said - clean it, grease it and close tight. The bearings make sound in different circumstances than you've described. Concerning the replaceability - the lower are replaceable, the upper not, which means the link is gone. But I can hardly believe, that after 75 hours of riding the link can be broken. 75 hours is not enough to wreck a link bearing even if it's dry.
 

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My first lower link bearings were gone before i made it through the season.

The worst one is always the lowest on the drive side. That one is shot before the others and when the other two or three are gone, that one is grinding or seized.

You can replace them by using a little piece of threaded rod, some washers and appropriately sized sockets to remove the old and press in the new. I use some loctite when pressing the new ones in to ensure i don't end up with creaking before the bearing is shot.
 

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A sound that recently started on my commuter bike that is wheel related is due to spokes loosening a bit. As that part of the wheel is weighted and unweighted it makes a little click. Friggin annoying but is fixed by adjusting spoke tension. For me it's the rim, as I've rebuild the wheel with different hubs/spokes. After a few hundred miles the noise comes back.
 

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One more vote for the SRAM Type 2 RD as a possible suspect. The clutch can give the suspension very notchy feeling and it can produce weird creaks, too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
its an XTR drivetrain.

I put the bike on a stand and spun the wheel. i marked my hub with a marker and found that the sound occurs at the same spot every rotation of the wheel. also noticed that the cogs get pushed slightly forward every time i hear the sound too.
 

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One more vote for the SRAM Type 2 RD as a possible suspect. The clutch can give the suspension very notchy feeling and it can produce weird creaks, too.
Give it it a service simple to do and it will never be an issue again, grease, done.

They come dry as from the factory, first thing anyone should do, if ya not confident get your LBS to do it, its a 5min job.
 

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I also had clicking, actually more of a grinding sound, coming from the rear wheel - Speed Tuned hub/Arch EX 29er rim. Pulling the wheel and cassette off, I could hold the wheel by the freehub body and the noise would occur while it spun - regardless of how tight the end caps were. I pulled the freehub off and found the inner bearing in the freehub body was shot - blown seal and leaking grease. There were also distinct parallel grooves in the axel where that inner bearing rested.

There was slight damage to the freehub body above the prawl teeth where the hub ratchet teeth made contact. I could only assume the bad bearing was allowing the freehub body to wobble and make contact.

I contacted Ibis they they were AWESOME with customer support in sending out new bearings and free hub body. They arrived today and will install to see if it fixed the issue. I'll let you know if it works.
 

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its an XTR drivetrain.

I put the bike on a stand and spun the wheel. i marked my hub with a marker and found that the sound occurs at the same spot every rotation of the wheel. also noticed that the cogs get pushed slightly forward every time i hear the sound too.
Are you spinning the wheel with or without chain? if so, check the links of the chain, maybe one of them is stuck, how your body? Are all the pawls lubricated
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I also had clicking, actually more of a grinding sound, coming from the rear wheel - Speed Tuned hub/Arch EX 29er rim. Pulling the wheel and cassette off, I could hold the wheel by the freehub body and the noise would occur while it spun - regardless of how tight the end caps were. I pulled the freehub off and found the inner bearing in the freehub body was shot - blown seal and leaking grease. There were also distinct parallel grooves in the axel where that inner bearing rested.

There was slight damage to the freehub body above the prawl teeth where the hub ratchet teeth made contact. I could only assume the bad bearing was allowing the freehub body to wobble and make contact.

I contacted Ibis they they were AWESOME with customer support in sending out new bearings and free hub body. They arrived today and will install to see if it fixed the issue. I'll let you know if it works.
i got mine apart the other day and found the exact same thing. glad to hear Ibis took care of you. I'm going to email them right now, thanks!
 

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what email address did you use to contact them, warranty or their general email?
I emailed the general email, [email protected]. Todd was the contact rep that help me.

I installed the new free hub body today and it resolved my issue. Runs perfectly now. The new free hub had a redesigned spring/prawl teeth interface. The old one used very thin individual springs for the three sets of teeth. The new design uses one substantially thicker spring to tension all three pair. Seems very durable. I like it.

Shout out to Ibis and their great service!
 
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