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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently purchased a set of 135/170 spaced wheels for my 2013 Mukluk.

I've been all sorts of confused trying to figure out why I can't get the brake to line up with the hub and fork. Come to find out the Enabler fork on my Mukluk is designed for rear spaced hubs and the new 135mm hub puts the rotor ~5mm too close to the fork.

Are there any options besides grinding 5mm off the brake adapter or buying a new hub altogether? My deal on the wheelset probably won't be much of a bargain if I need a new buy a new hub and re-lace the wheel.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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Recently purchased a set of 135/170 spaced wheels for my 2013 Mukluk.

I've been all sorts of confused trying to figure out why I can't get the brake to line up with the hub and fork. Come to find out the Enabler fork on my Mukluk is designed for rear spaced hubs and the new 135mm hub puts the rotor ~5mm too close to the fork.

Are there any options besides grinding 5mm off the brake adapter or buying a new hub altogether? My deal on the wheelset probably won't be much of a bargain if I need a new buy a new hub and re-lace the wheel.
Actually, yes. An MRP better boost front adapter will move your caliper in 5mm. It requires you to run a 180mm rotor, but that's not a huge deal for most people (usually preferred).

Mode of transport Bicycle wheel rim Spoke Bicycle accessory Bicycle part
Bicycle part Bicycle accessory Bicycle wheel rim Spoke Bicycle drivetrain part
 

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Thingamejigger
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Actually, yes. An MRP better boost front adapter will move your caliper in 5mm.
Isn't that the wrong way? RDS fork + FDS hub = Disk 5mm too close. RDS Hub + FDS fork = 5mm spacer on brake disk or MRP adaptor.

OP needs the caliper to be 5mm further outboard, I have seen a few people machine IS to PM type mounts. Taking 5mm off the thickness gets you into the right placement, this can be done as crudely as using a metal file.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I considered grinding the mount using a dremel/file. I think my biggest concern would be making sure the thickness is consistent.

Anyone who has done this have any real world input on grinding the bracket? Looks like they can be had for under $20 as replacements at least.
 

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Elitest thrill junkie
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Isn't that the wrong way? RDS fork + FDS hub = Disk 5mm too close. RDS Hub + FDS fork = 5mm spacer on brake disk or MRP adaptor.

OP needs the caliper to be 5mm further outboard, I have seen a few people machine IS to PM type mounts. Taking 5mm off the thickness gets you into the right placement, this can be done as crudely as using a metal file.
Damn, you are right.

I would take the hub to a machine shop to have them turn down the mounts 5mm, assuming it leaves adequate threads, to ensure a level surface.
 

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turtles make me hot
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To me, the easiest solution here is to email 9 Zero 7 and get one of their 135mm rear spaced front hubs. They're on sale for like 36 bucks.

I also had this same problem once and I took the caliper adapter and cut the mounting points down with a spot face cutter. It worked perfectly until I could change the hub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
To me, the easiest solution here is to email 9 Zero 7 and get one of their 135mm rear spaced front hubs. They're on sale for like 36 bucks.

I also had this same problem once and I took the caliper adapter and cut the mounting points down with a spot face cutter. It worked perfectly until I could change the hub.
I was hoping to not have to re-lace the wheel just because of cost.

So you basically countersunk the mounting bolts rather than grinding down the adapter?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks again.

Unfortunately I don't have a drill press. I think I might try clamping it in my vise and using a hacksaw to take off 3-4mm and use a file to get the last bit and even it out. Will have to check periodically with my calipers to make sure it is all even. Hopefully I don't wreck it, but at least it can be easily replaced if needed.
 
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