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To all:

I have been thinking if adding a 1x9 or 1x8 to the Redline Monocog 29er,(not the Flite 29er) Has anyone seen a derailer adapter bracket to do this. I can fab one but I would rather just purchase one. The rear hub needs to go also so I guess I will be building a new rear wheel for the M-Cog.

The rear chain adjuster would be really nice if I welded a drop bracket to it. Yes this would work very easily ,or just CNC a new one with the added material.

Anyone thinking with me?:D
 

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I've seen about half a dozen threads that actually showed the solution with it's price tag. Sorry I've got to fly now. Google gears monocog adapter forums.mtbr.com and it may come up.
 

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I always think about putting gears on my Monocog. I get a list of parts spec it out for a 1by three in the rear or a a one by three in the front. Next, I get ready to order parts. In the meantime I take the Monocog out for a ride and wonder why in the hell I would want to ruin it by putting gears on it. Then I throw the parts list away.

Redline does make a rear D hanger for it.
 

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Have thought of doing the same thing but set up as 1x3 with index shifter. The Sunrace hanger I heard works good. Making a custom hanger to fit would not be that difficult either. Also, have you considered using an old claw type derailluer that will mount over the hub bolt. You can get pick one up on eBay cheap or maybe find one in old parts bin at your LBS. I found an old bike at a garage sale for $45 about a year ago with everything I needed and passed it up, that was before I had my MC though.
 

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No real need for cable stops if your running it as a 1x whatever... I myself have gave the idea of gearing my Monocog up. I've got a old GT Timberline that i'm running 1x8 and will be replacing that with a Kona Smoke for my commuter.
 

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I thought cable stops were needed. What do you do? Run a full length cable housing from the shifter straight into the rear derailleur? Has anyone else done this? Whats the shift quality like?
 

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Shift quality may well end up being better, less chance for dirt to get into the system after half a ride also. Zip-tie cable guides are easy enough to find.

I don't think redline offers a hanger other than for the Flight bike.

I like the idea of the cheap-ass 7spd derailer with built-in hanger they run around $10-15, every LBS can special order them. You could run the stock rear wheel with 3 cogs or so, spaced for instance 14-17-22 which IME rides excellently (as tried on other bikes). Nice spread, and still very much a SS style ride.
 

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Well, that's good to know.
For sure, the cable would stay cleaner. Keep it good and lubed.
I guess the only reason for cable stops is so that you don't have to run a full length housing which weighs more and would have more friction.
Good idea about the der. with the built in stop. Have you actually used one?
 

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Now that I think of it, I have seen these derailleurs. They were Shimano with big red pulleys and they were ridiculously cheap, $13.99 (?). Being Shimano they probably work just fine.
 

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I was just talking with my LBS mechanic the other day about running a Sunrace hanger, with my XT deraileur off my old Dale F700. The only issue I have now is finding reasonable priced thumbies that work well. I forgot to ask my LBS mechanic about the thumbies. His thoughts on the 3 cogs in the back was that it would work well as long as you limited the teeth spaces to say 3-4 teeth. We discussed doing a 19-16-13.

Anyways, any ideas on cheap and reliable thumbies. The paul's thumbies adapter and older road bike bar end shifter thing does not make sense to me as it would cost way to much to buy all that stuff. I might as well take all the drive train parts off my old F700 and turn the MC29er into a 1X8. I will just have to have a new rear wheel built up then.

Peace out.

Chris
 

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If 3 is the max, quickly call SRAM! They're selling cassettes with bigger gaps!
I even got a SRAM derailer to work a-ok with 5spd 14-33. That's special, as SRAMs lack a B-tension spring which would really be helpful (thanks Shimano, a useful feature :) )
There's a "funky drivetrain" thread on here with some examples. A friend did 3spd with much bigger gaps and it shifted fine. Rode bad to me though, is was like 12-17-23 or something. 25% gaps going up, definately <30% for me.
 

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Cloxxki,

You are probably right. I am not a bike wrench and never intend to be. My LBS mech did say he would be willing to do a larger spacing, but thought that 3 teeth was a good compromise. Thanks for your input on the spacing.

Any ideas on what I should use for cheap thumbies????

Chris
 
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