ADDam said:
Hey Guys, I would really like to build up a Karate Monkey, but UNFORTUNATELY, I am a bit concerned about the weight. I really love the idea of a steel 1x9. We have a fully geared KM built up in the shop and it tips the scale at around 32lbs :eekster: using low(er) end parts.
Now I realize that its a steel bike and just the frame weighs 5.34 pounds (size 18), but what have some of your KM builds come out to be? Is >25lbs easily doable?
Photos, builds and weights WELCOME!
This is what I would eventually like to have:
XTR Crank with Single ring
990 Cassette
XTR Rear Der
Stans Arch/Hope Wheelset
BB7s
Reba SL Eventually
It's possible to get the weight down, but it will cost you. My suggestion is to make sure you are running a wheelset that is at least 1600g light. I would ditch those Hope hubs and go lighter with DT Swiss 240's or American Classic hubs. I would ditch the boat anchor 990 cassette and get the XTR. BB7's are not stock light, so if you trim 'em by running lighter rotors (such as 160f/140r Ashima Serrated rotors), with Jagwire cables/housing and some light levers - you can be at 400g per side.
If you have a target weight, I would plug in all the weights of the components you are considering into an Excel spreadsheet so you can see the final weight build. It's always about the components starting with the wheel weight.
My size XL Karate Monkey in the following pictures weighs 23.9 lbs. without going crazy weight weenie on it and running a 2 x 9 drivetrain (no granny).
However, as you see in the picture, that 23.9 is with V-Brakes. American Classic non-disc wheels at 1600g converted tubeless with Stans standard 26" rimstrips and sealant. Middleburn 180mm Duo cranks with the SRAM twist shifts, an older XT front derailleur, X.9 rear, two Bontrager XR 2.25 front tires (run it on the rear as well), Thomson post and stem, King headset, WTB saddle Bontrager Race handlebar, SRAM grips, Avid Ti brakes/levers, Kool Stop pads, Shimano SPD cheaper and heavy pedals, Race Face heavy ISIS BB, Salsa skewers, Surly seatpost collar, some cheap and heavy bottle cage.
If I throw all my weight weenie parts on it, I can get it down much lower with no problems. Now if you add in disc brakes and a Reba, the weight gain will start. The Karate Monkey fork weighs 1180g. A Reba will average around 1780 - 1810, so that's about an additional 1.38 pounds for the suspension. (You could also go the other direction and get a lighter fork such as one of the carbons from Pace, White Brothers, etc....). I don't mind the KM fork though for my needs since I ride an XL and the fork gives more for us larger sized riders than it does in the smaller sizes. Depending on final weight of your BB7's, the weight gain over V Brakes must be considered as well. I'll use my usual set up of the Alligator serrated 160/140, Speed Dial Levers, Jagwire housing and call it 800 - 820g compared to the Avid Ti V-Brakes which are 330g for the pair, plus housing/cables 78g and Levers 180g for a total of 588g will cost another 1/2 pound. If just running a stock BB7 kit with cables/housing and levers - you're probably looking at 990 - 1000g which is .9 lbs over the V-Brake set up. Hence, my suggestion of tuning them down with rotors/housing and light levers. Or running a lighter disc brake set to begin with for your build.
Without changing anything else but the brakes and fork (as well as swapping for the disc American Classic wheels which I also own and they weigh the same), the bike in XL size with the gear I have on it would weigh 25.79 lbs. And that's without really hand picking some lighter weight components.
So I say yes - it is absolutely within reason to come in at or around 25 lbs with the KM, a suspension fork and disc brakes.:thumbsup: The size 18" frame is obviously a tad lighter than my size 22" frame.
BB
