[FishMan473]

I've got some lovely, classic, green and "silver" Real brake levers mated with some LX canti brakes. There are two circles or holes in the underside of the levers for mounting the nub at the end of the brake cable. I've not had much luck setting up this brake set with much power. I think I'm putting the cable nub in the wrong hole, one of them, I suspect is the hole for use with v-brakes, which I think were just coming out when these levers were new.

Does anyone know which hole is the correct one for canti's ?

 

[richieb]

The one closest to the pivot axis is the canti one...Not easy setup with these levers, as you need some brake cables with the oversize nubby bits to make them fit right...

rb

 

[Zanetti]

Real levers have always had two cable-end positions, even before v-brakes appeared. You may have a set of levers suited for cantilever brakes only. I'd just try both positions to see what works best for you.

 

[FishMan473]

thanks for the info. Do you guys run these levers? Which cable end position do you use? Why would they have two positions in the first place if it's just for canti's?

I'm not really up on my cantilever brake lever geometry.... but it sounds like I should start with the one closest to the pivot? I was thinking of filling in the other position with wax to keep the cable end from slipping.

 

[Zanetti]

thanks for the info. Do you guys run these levers? Which cable end position do you use? Why would they have two positions in the first place if it's just for canti's?

I'm not really up on my cantilever brake lever geometry.... but it sounds like I should start with the one closest to the pivot? I was thinking of filling in the other position with wax to keep the cable end from slipping.

The two cable positions was Real's gimmick to set them apart from the nearly hundreds of other cnc annodized products on the market in the mid '90s. Don't forget Avid had their speed-dial levers on the market for canti's too. People noticed that the alternate cable position worked ok with V-brakes. Never owned a pair myself, but I was working as a service manager in a bike shop around that time, so I've set up a few.

There's a wide range of adjustment with center pull canti's. By altering the height of the staddle hanger and cable position in the lever, the feel and modulation of the brake can be set to the riders exact preference.

 

[FishMan473]

There's a wide range of adjustment with center pull canti's. By altering the height of the staddle hanger and cable position in the lever, the feel and modulation of the brake can be set to the riders exact preference.

Yeah, I'm familar with the geometry of the brakes themselves, it's how that relates to the pull at the lever that I can never figure out. You would think more pull is better, but less pull with more leverage or power may also be better?

Which is the "alternate" position and which is the standard position?

 

[Zanetti]

Yeah, I'm familar with the geometry of the brakes themselves, it's how that relates to the pull at the lever that I can never figure out. You would think more pull is better, but less pull with more leverage or power may also be better?

Which is the "alternate" position and which is the standard position?

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I think the position closest to the pivot is standard. If you want high leverage/low cable pull (closer to brake lever pivot) or low leverage/high cable pull (farther from pivot) will depend on what canti brake is used and how it is set up.

An example: running your canti brake with the pads extended out far on their posts, and the brake arms farthest from the tire along with a low straddle hanger height (close to the tire) will result in a mushy feel if using a standard canti brake lever. Also, the pads would have to be run very close to the rims. Using an adjustable lever in the low leverage/high cable pull setting would allow better pad/rim clearance and afford more modulation with the brakes set up this way.

 

[FishMan473]

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An example: running your canti brake with the pads extended out far on their posts, and the brake arms farthest from the tire along with a low straddle hanger height (close to the tire) will result in a mushy feel if using a standard canti brake lever. Also, the pads would have to be run very close to the rims. Using an adjustable lever in the low leverage/high cable pull setting would allow better pad/rim clearance and afford more modulation with the brakes set up this way.

Right, thanks... that's exactly how I have the brakes set up, I'll give it a shot.