[the73z]

I'm thinking about replacing my v's with some hayes discs off a used bike - but only if I can adjust the lever reach. If you think that's pointless don't bother reading this thread.

So I called go-ride in search of the razor rock knock-offs they used to carry. And Chris told me that the reach can now be adjusted without effecting the feel or power of the brakes by simply changing out the cylinder. Is this true? If I want one finger levers that stop right at the bar, can I do it with some Bonz or DB's and a different cylinder without effecting the feel or is this BS?

Thanks, Z

 

[XSL_WiLL]

I'm thinking about replacing my v's with some hayes discs off a used bike - but only if I can adjust the lever reach. If you think that's pointless don't bother reading this thread.

So I called go-ride in search of the razor rock knock-offs they used to carry. And Chris told me that the reach can now be adjusted without effecting the feel or power of the brakes by simply changing out the cylinder. Is this true? If I want one finger levers that stop right at the bar, can I do it with some Bonz or DB's and a different cylinder without effecting the feel or is this BS?

Thanks, Z

Hmm... I've never heard about changing the levers causing a shorter throw on the lever. I'm fairly certain that Hayes only has 1 type of master cylinder for each brake. But I could be horribly wrong.

Reach can be adjusted with a 2mm or 2.5mm allen key. There's a small bolt by where the lever pivots. It's the plunger for the master cylinder. Dial that in and out to adjust the reach.

 

[keen]

Reach adjustment is a basic lever placement - if you want contact 1" off the bars the lever will have to be adjusted close to that. Avid has a pad contact adjustment so the lever rests in a normal position but will travel to say right off the bars before contacting. Not sure what aftermarket levers are doing but I thought one had a modulation adjustment.

 

[the73z]

I've found that Hayes makes SRL short reach levers for women, youth, and guys with small... hands. In case anyone cares - I do.

Z

 

[dogonfr]

I've found that Hayes makes SRL short reach levers for women, youth, and guys with small... hands. In case anyone cares - I do.
Z

All is true said beffor me, as far as i know Hays makes 2 resivours, old & new. Then there is the allen screw at plunger.
Hays now offers a so called bone leg lever also Danger Boy makes levers.
Make shure the fluid if fresh, it should be replaced at least once a year.
http://www.dangerboyusa.com/levers.php

 

[XSL_WiLL]

All is true said beffor me, as far as i know Hays makes 2 resivours, old & new. Then there is the allen screw at plunger.
Hays now offers a so called bone leg lever also Danger Boy makes levers.
Make shure the fluid if fresh, it should be replaced at least once a year.
http://www.dangerboyusa.com/levers.php

The old master cylinder uses a 2.5mm reach adjuster rather than the 2mm reach adjuster, and is supposedly for use with 2002 or earlier MAG brakes. However, I've been told that the older master cylinders would work fine with the newer brakes as long as you got the knuckle with the right thread size for the lever. Hayes also makes the new master cylinders for the 2003 and later MAG brakes as well as the master cylinder for the HFX-9 brakes. The Mags use a soft resivoir, the HFX-9 uses a hard resivoir. That's why the Mags feel to have better modulation.

 

[[email protected]]

Huh?

"The Mags use a soft resivoir, the HFX-9 uses a hard resivoir. That's why the Mags feel to have better modulation"

Sorry but the bladder material durometer really has nothing to do with modulation.

Cheers,
Randy

 

[XSL_WiLL]

"The Mags use a soft resivoir, the HFX-9 uses a hard resivoir. That's why the Mags feel to have better modulation"

Sorry but the bladder material durometer really has nothing to do with modulation.

Cheers,
Randy

In that case I'm just stupid. Disregard the above statement.

 

[dogonfr]

In that case I'm just stupid. Disregard the above statement.

Thats ok, the universal Mag cylinder kit does not fit all Hays Mag masters. Some have a flat shaft & newer are round .

 

[keen]

I found a set of the brake levers with the modulation adjustment :

www.fortheriders.com/42.html

They are mabe by Da Bomb possibly like the RR.

 

[fsrxc]

The old master cylinder uses a 2.5mm reach adjuster rather than the 2mm reach adjuster, and is supposedly for use with 2002 or earlier MAG brakes. However, I've been told that the older master cylinders would work fine with the newer brakes as long as you got the knuckle with the right thread size for the lever. Hayes also makes the new master cylinders for the 2003 and later MAG brakes as well as the master cylinder for the HFX-9 brakes. The Mags use a soft resivoir, the HFX-9 uses a hard resivoir. That's why the Mags feel to have better modulation.

Also, I thought the opposite, I currently run Mags, which might have more power than 9s, but I would say the modulation is better on the 9s, not the other way round, kind of a softer lockup threshold than the Mags. The Mags feel a bit more on/off, but you get used to it.

 

[Bikinfoolferlife]

I found a set of the brake levers with the modulation adjustment :

www.fortheriders.com/42.html

They are mabe by Da Bomb possibly like the RR.

That's not a modulation adjustment...in their own words it's a second type of reach adjustment.

 

[keen]

That's not a modulation adjustment...in their own words it's a second type of reach adjustment.

But....
"Therefore there is no sacrifice in power when you move your levers closer to the bar".

From the ending statement if the power is the same w/ the lever close to the bars the fulcrom point must be changed - not a simple reach adjustment.

 

[XSL_WiLL]

Also, I thought the opposite, I currently run Mags, which might have more power than 9s, but I would say the modulation is better on the 9s, not the other way round, kind of a softer lockup threshold than the Mags. The Mags feel a bit more on/off, but you get used to it.

Everybody says the Mags have better modulation than the 9s. And I've had both myself, as well as a number of mechanical disc brakes and a set a Juicy 7s.

 

[dogonfr]

My 2 pennys, 9's sunk i agree with XSL_WiLL the brake feel was soft, the lever adjust screw backs out (blue locktite fixes this) & a rubber plug for the bleed hole?? Mag ohyaaa now that is a master cylinder , can really feel the brake feedback.

 

[patineto]

but first sorry for the Ingles, gets even wrost when i'm trying to explain something techical.

not exactllly in the subject of Reach, but for sure a great way to improve on power and some how modulation...

think about this for a second.....

out of the fingers in your hand, think about witch ones provide the most power..?

also look were you fingers are ussually place on the brake levers...?

well i work on bicycle shop and around bicycles and motorcycles for many years and is very seldom when i found a bike set up the "proper way".

In short your index and middle fingers are not only the longest but also the strongest and the most develope for continuos operation, the problem arrives when most hands can not reach the very extreme end of the levers (ussually levers are not extremlly well design in terms of ergonomics) and end up engaging the lever with their fingers near the folcrum point (pivots) were is very little leverage but at least the lever is the closes to your fingers..

my pragamtic aproach is actually to move the levers to a place on the bars were you have no other choice but grab the end of the levers (the end of the grip let you know when is to far) this is ussually about 1 1/2' from the end of the grip for my 6.2" proportional hands, if your hands are smaller, less distance will be require.,

something like this were you fingers are at the very edge of the lever were you find the ultimate leverage and also your two main fingers are doing the job..

actually I build my tandem with 4 brakes set up, two Rim brakes ussing V-brakes and also two hydrolic disc brakes to prevent rim overheating something very comun on tandems.

I set up the two levers (on each side) on a way they can be actuated independentlly or at Unison .
here is a view of the overall set up.

and here are the two brakes used at ones with only ONE finger on each of them at the very end of each lever providing a incredible amount of stoping power feedback, modulation and also efficiency of motion making you far less tyred at the end of a ride..

this is for sure a side subject when you are taking about reach, but is also something very important to keep in consideration since many people ride their bikes with very ineficient set up and waste incredible amount of energy in the process..

I hope it helps, maybe I just need to write my own posting about Biomecanical improvements.

 

[the73z]

I found a set of the brake levers with the modulation adjustment :

www.fortheriders.com/42.html

They are mabe by Da Bomb possibly like the RR.

Thank you for finding those. It should be a reach adjustment, and therefore not effecting the modulation adjustment. Fwi, Chris at Go-ride said they stopped carrying those because they had fitment problems with some of the Hayes - he didn't specify which.

I will probably start with the SRL's from Hayes - because it's more likely they'll fit. But it would be nice if they specified how far off the bar those land... Randy?

I would still rather have reach adjustment than just accepting whatever reach the SRLs come with. So it's good to know where to get the Da Bombs.

Thanks again, Z

 

[the73z]

Heyyyyyyyyyyy,

They're in Australia!

Cool place and all, but... it might take a while for them to get here.

 

[XSL_WiLL]

but first sorry for the Ingles, gets even wrost when i'm trying to explain something techical.

not exactllly in the subject of Reach, but for sure a great way to improve on power and some how modulation...

think about this for a second.....

out of the fingers in your hand, think about witch ones provide the most power..?

also look were you fingers are ussually place on the brake levers...?

well i work on bicycle shop and around bicycles and motorcycles for many years and is very seldom when i found a bike set up the "proper way".

In short your index and middle fingers are not only the longest but also the strongest and the most develope for continuos operation, the problem arrives when most hands can not reach the very extreme end of the levers (ussually levers are not extremlly well design in terms of ergonomics) and end up engaging the lever with their fingers near the folcrum point (pivots) were is very little leverage but at least the lever is the closes to your fingers..

my pragamtic aproach is actually to move the levers to a place on the bars were you have no other choice but grab the end of the levers (the end of the grip let you know when is to far) this is ussually about 1 1/2' from the end of the grip for my 6.2" proportional hands, if your hands are smaller, less distance will be require.,

something like this were you fingers are at the very edge of the lever were you find the ultimate leverage and also your two main fingers are doing the job..

actually I build my tandem with 4 brakes set up, two Rim brakes ussing V-brakes and also two hydrolic disc brakes to prevent rim overheating something very comun on tandems.

I set up the two levers (on each side) on a way they can be actuated independentlly or at Unison .
here is a view of the overall set up.

and here are the two brakes used at ones with only ONE finger on each of them at the very end of each lever providing a incredible amount of stoping power feedback, modulation and also efficiency of motion making you far less tyred at the end of a ride..

this is for sure a side subject when you are taking about reach, but is also something very important to keep in consideration since many people ride their bikes with very ineficient set up and waste incredible amount of energy in the process..

I hope it helps, maybe I just need to write my own posting about Biomecanical improvements.

Makes sense. That tandem setup is pretty cool.

 

[patineto]

Makes sense.

Well give it a try, just move the levers and shifters inwards, decrease the reach on the levers so you fingers don't need to reach that far and you will never go back, the feedback is so much better and your hands are so much less tyred is not even funny..

That tandem setup is pretty cool.

yeah I'm really happy with it, in the old day i used to blow tubes all the time when the rims got super hot, this days do to the mega super size of the trailpimp rims ( a exelent heatsink do to all the materail expose to the air) and also the disc brakes...

actually i'm working on a full suspension concept, that hopefully will become a reality or maybe a nightmare in a few months.