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RAKC Industries
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As requested, getting a new thread up for discussion on Ravemen's new lights that I carry.

To be clear I am the US based partner for Ravemen as of this last week (was formally Tigris99 for new visitors). And don't worry, videos will still come. I took the PR1200 out last night just tooling around on my fat bike. As always, I'm still a kid when I get a new light. So have to put them through their paces and share my experiences as well as the "boring technical details" that we all love :cool:



www.rakclighting.com

On to the good stuff:

As is becoming known, Ravemen came up with their own version of cut-off beam lights. For those that don't fully understand what that is, think of your car or truck headlights on low beam. Then on high beam. Low is "low to the ground" and high beam is higher and further reaching. Same idea. Low is meant to avoid blinding oncoming traffic and keep the light down closer/wider where you need it.

Ravemen has done something very similar, just with PMMA optics and a "half lens" instead of a larger reflector.

MTBR is rather enthusiastic about the design and I find it different and an effective idea. Though my first lights that have had any form of cut-off beam.



A quick overview of Ravemen lights:
*Note: PR1200 is not available yet, will be come early spring

The numbers in the name designation of each light is the lumen output. ANSI certified output(this is just a standardize method of testing done by an approved third party). Example is CR500 is 500 lumens, PR1200 is 1200 lumens

All are USB rechargeable (totally self contained). No cells cant be changed as these were designed around being as small as possible with USB charging (both ways in the case of PR series)

Both have a USB remote with full mode cycling or a long press will "flash" for those that need to flash oncoming traffic. Its automatically max output while button is held then back to whatever mode you were in previously. Simple clicks of the remote button just cycle the regular modes.

CR series and PR series LOW BEAM share the same operation except the CR series has a fast flash mode as well. 4 steady modes then flash (single steady on with pulse for PR series, steady on with pulse or rapid flash with CR series)

Buttons glow in the dark but will turn red (except remote) when batteries are getting low.

Mount is universal across all lights, fit up to 31.8mm bars (no current 35mm support currently. I am using a Minoura extension on my fat bike right now to test the PR series off the road)





CR300 and CR500 are the small single emitter lights meant for road/commuting use. Not recommended for trail use as they have a limited amount of throw. Work in a pinch (or as a bar light) but don't try them as a helmet light.

The PR600, PR900 and PR1200 are the dual emitter lights. They have one side that is the cut off beam and the other is a normal spot optic.

Other differences:

CR300 and CR500 are standard water resistant only. Dropped in a puddle or anything as long as usb cover is on/no remote, wont hurt it.

PR600, 900 and 1200 are water proof, without remote plugged in, up to 2 meters. USB ports are un-effected if they get wet but submersion more than a drop in a puddle, water may get past the inner seal. So if you expect to take a dip in a creek with one, have the remote removed and covers over the USB ports, beyond that not much to be concerned with.

PR series can also be used as a power bank to charge your phone in emergencies. Be advised, this will drain the batteries quickly, especially if light is on as well. Figure if you charge your phone at the same time your running the light, you wont even make half your run time. Especially smart phones.

PR 600/900/1200 have the high beam or "HiLo" function. What this is:
Low/ cut-off beam as I mentioned above is the same as that of the CR300 and CR500. But the PR series has a large button that not only turns the light on and off (press and hold) but also controls either low mode only or both on together. The second smaller button operates the mode options. Steady modes/flasher if low mode only or just 3 steady modes if both high and low are on. No high will not work by itself, only low will.

PR900 and PR1200 differ in their own way. This is more of a user preference against the PR600. But the small digital display. It displays the run time on the numbers in 0.0 or if run time is 10 hrs or above, 00. example would be either 1.5hrs or 15hrs. Just below that is a little pair of indicators (very small) that the one on the left will show amber colored and signify just low beam is active. The one on the right will come on in blue (so both are on) when you go to both high and low beams. REMOTE will only cycle through the modes (same operation as the small button) you cannot turn the light on and off or switch between high and low with the remote.

Here is a pic for size comparisons:



Some indoor beam shots to give you an idea of pattern and tint. Tint isn't a strong cool white but isn't neutral either. Say 5500-6000k. Not a lot of blue, the high beam shows a fair bit of yellow so the light isn't bad when blended with neutral white. I'll get better ones outside with a proper camera soon.



Cut off beam:


Both on for PR series:


Here's what all lights come with. Light, mount, selection of pads and a spacer for the mount, USB cord and USB remote:


Pic of remote set up on the PR1200:


Here is the mount itself, which does twist to adapt for curved bars:


Picture of the rear of the CR500 (300 is the same) and PR1200 (600 and 900 are the same):


Bare with me as I get all the details and pics loaded. More to come as I still need to do sphere testing.
 

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RAKC Industries
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok here's my actual sphere readings, nice to see they are rather accurate (more dead on than expected). I did double check sphere calibration before testing.

CR300:

CR500: 494 lumens

PR600: 612 lumens

PR900: 886 lumens (been using and testing so probably I got dirt or something on the optics)

PR1200: 1191 lumens
 

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In my opinion the choice made, "not to included a serviceable battery compartment" has nothing to do with size but looks more to do with "choice of features by design". If you have a battery access door ( in the rear of the lamp ) then you can't put the USB ports there. The LED display is also towards the rear of the lamp. If you want to keep the ports and display then yes, adding a battery compartment would likely require a complete redesign. Whether or not this precludes the unit would be bigger is anyone's guess. How much bigger (?) would be the real question.

Self contained lamps by design are generally bigger than typical lamps that use remote batteries. This means they have a bigger footprint when on the bars ( or wherever you choose to mount them ). If you are the type of person who likes the idea of a self-contained lamp on the bars and don't mind the extra space required for their use, I don't see how "making the design more functional ( ie...having a serviceable battery compartment ) would be considered an over-all negative issue. My opinion is that if the body of the lamp was just a little bigger I doubt I would choose "not to use the lamp" because it was too big. I'd much rather have something that I could choose to use with a couple back up cells in case I wanted to do a ride that might require longer run time. I'll take "function over form" any time.

BTW, I'm not dissing your lamp. I might buy one if the reviews continued to be favorable. Currently I don't own a lamp with a cut-off design so I was thinking it might be nice to have one just so I see the beam pattern in person.

Going forward, it might be a good idea in the future to include at least a port that would allow the connection of an external battery ( for back-up ) for those people who might want that feature. I doubt the extra port would add any additional size but it would require different electronics.
 

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RAKC Industries
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Cat,

battery backup isn't a big problem as its USB, it just doesn't allow for running while charging (not sure why, surprised when I found that out).

As for size increase to have replaceable cells, it would be pretty big to maintain both USB ports (be to able to operate as a powerbank). We know the size just for basic USB recharge and replaceable cells with the WIZ20. Would make for a pretty big light (by comparison) to maintain all functionality and move the USB ports to the front of the light. Think wiz20 but slightly bulkier and about 15mm longer. The ability to run while plugged into a USB power bank would be interesting. Guessing more complex circuitry though.
 

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The replaceable battery in the field feature is why I bought the Wiz20. I can thank you guys for talking me into it.

I contacted Fenix about their BC30R light and the fact that it doesn't have replaceable batteries. They told me " send it in and we'll replace them for you"

Bad choice on light design in not having replaceable batteries because A.) The batteries die in the field now what and B.) Now my light is gone for a week or more having the batteries replaced.

Is it really that hard for the manufacturer to think of these simple things? Or is it easier just to make a disposable light?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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RAKC Industries
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's the other features that make it difficult. I have a bc30r as well and that thing has just a ton of crap going on inside of it. Obviously they misunderstood your question though lol. They have a version that has replaceable cells.

Your cells won't sudden just stop working thank God (unless they go dead of course but you get a warning).

Though many of us like the option of changing our cells out how many actually worry about it compared to the few of us here. I've only ever changed cells in mine once other than at home. And that only happens when I forget to charge them. Other than that same cells in it for the last year Few guys posted in the wiz20 thread that they never bother taking the cells out.

My thoughts behind things, every company goes for their own idea. Fenix has their fancy monster display, kind of bulky. Ituo is more simplistic, long, and user replaceable cells. These guys went with as small as possible with USB availability both ways on the dual lights. No fun if everybody made their lights the same way.

Same reason many of here like Cat, mole, Garry, myself etc have a rediculous number of lights. Variety to keep it interesting or lights that work better than others for what's being done.





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Fenix does have one with replaceable cell but no USB charging. You need to buy a separate charger.

Fenix should marry the features of the BC30 and BC30R into one light.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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RAKC Industries
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Can't marry a digital runtime display and replaceable cells. The display system has to be calibrated to specific cells and won't be accurate otherwise. Have a massive new world of people freaking out "I put these cheap cells in and it said I had 3 hrs when I turned it on, then died 45 minutes later"

Would work if people stuck with only good, new cells. I can just see the fall out in around here though. Look at all the threads of "I bought the cheapest entry level brand "x" bike and it's not holding up to racing on downhill parks or 10ft drops to flat"

Should add, the tech exists but adds complexity and cost to the light obviously. Maybe I'm over thinking it but we have seen the more simplistic systems being all sorts of weird on light heads depending on battery packs used.

There are other lights out there that are USB rechargeable and replaceable cells, but nothing I've seen that has a display and all that other stuff.

Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
 

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Don't need the runtime display. Just post the specs on battery life at each brightness setting.

I would have bought the BC30R if the batteries were replaceable.

I would have bought the BC30 if it had a USB recharge feature.

Ituo Wiz20 checked all the right boxes.
 

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Yeah...still not quite a fan of the NW on the Wiz20 but overall it's a good light. In the photos above, the Ravemen looks to be a brighter white than the Wiz20
I just did a little wall shot comparison with some of my lights that are adjustable to approx. equal lux. My Ravemen PR900 is definitely whiter/cooler than my Wiz20 but a little warmer than my Gloworm X2 and noticeably warmer than an older Gemini Olympia I have. I mostly use my NW tint lights and since I have a choice it tells me that's what I prefer.
Mole
 

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Ok here's my actual sphere readings, nice to see they are rather accurate (more dead on than expected). I did double check sphere calibration before testing.

CR300:

CR500: 494 lumens

PR600: 612 lumens

PR900: 886 lumens (been using and testing so probably I got dirt or something on the optics)

PR1200: 1191 lumens
I here you on that. A finger smudge can cost you 50 lumens plus depending on the optic age (even just a few runs) sometimes will affect optic efficiency but I know you haven't had the light very long. Reran my tests last night and got same results, was expecting to see at least 950 lumens from the bounce test lux readings I got. Also haven't taken the bezel off yet but was wondering if the optics are available for purchase separately or if the standard Leddna or Gloworm style optics will fit?
Mole
 
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