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from the east
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to build a new rim onto my rear hub. I got a good deal on a pair of Mavic 721's -- heavier-duty than I really need, but I like the added width.

The wheel is a 36-spoke singlespeed (dishless) build. Currently it has 14/15/14 spokes on a mavic 117 rim. This was a very stiff and solid wheel.

Since I need new spokes anyway, I was thinking about using DT revolutions. Ordinarily, I wouldn't want a rear wheel built with such skinny spokes. However, this time around, I figure I've got the best-case scenario to run them: 36 spokes, big rim, dishless wheel.

I don't really need to save the weight, but I think regular DB spokes on that rim would be way overkill for my riding. (heavy X-country, smooth 165lb rider.) I also think the more springy spokes might actually make a longer-lasting, more durable wheel.

Question is, Will a Revo rear wheel be too noodly? I've come to really like the solidity of the current wheel. I figure what I lose in the spokes, the rim might make up for. Thoughts?

Eric.
 

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I've had good experience building with the Revolutions, but have had way better experieces with the Super Comps (2.0-1.7-1.8 butting), especially in low spoke count applications. I think the weights are similar, but having the meatier 2.0 section at the j bend just makes more sense. Had been riding them on my fixie for a coupla months with no problems (until I broke my arm at the skatepark), and that's without a brake and a lot of city use. Also made the wheel a bit more comfy than the straight gauge spokes I was using. Clutch when it comes to deep aero rims. Currently building them up for use on my park bike, so I trust 'em in two harsh applications.
 

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You don't mention what you're runnning for brakes, so I'll throw this out there. And I may be talking smack, as I'm posting without confirming, but I don't think DT recommends Revolutions on a disc build.
 

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Do It Yourself
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Short answer...

No.

Longer answer is that it makes absolutely no sense to use weight weenie spokes on a beefcake 36 hole wheel. None whatsoever. So no, don't get Revolutions. Also there is no need to pay for premium+ spokes on discount wheels.
 

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GG, I'm gonna have to disagree. If you walk around the pits at the races you'll notice that virtually every pro DHer is running a stout rim w/ skinny legs. A stiff wheel is awesome, but too stiff and the wheel won't have any spring, any give, and spokes will start popping or rims cracking. Learned this building a disc wheel for a couple's tandem. The 2.0's kept breaking and breaking and breaking and, well you get the point. Changed the spokes to 2.0-1.8DB's and they haven't broke a spoke since. If our buddy Eric wants strength not stiffness and to pinch of some rotating weight, I think the reasoning and science behind it will stand the test of time. Pick up a copy of Bicycle Science from Cambridge Press. There are some real complete explanations of the material science behind wheel building that'll flip your lid. I never learned I knew so little so fast.
 

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from the east
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Rim Brakes.

G.G.- I think you are correct about DT's recommendo, but I am using rim brakes on this one.

Juan - I'm thinking about the 2.0-1.5-2.0 Revos. They make a 1.8-1.5-1.8, but I agree with you about having the full size spoke at the bend, and at the head so they seat real nice in the hub. I've also had bad experiences with straight-guage spokes. They are definitely more likely to break, or break a nipple, or crack the rim.

Homebrew - Although it might be silly to use the Revos, the wheel will be way overkill with heavier spokes. The added cost is not that much, and since the rim is ceramic coated, I'm hoping the wheel can last for maybe 6-7 years.

Overall, I'm gunning for strength and durability over stiffness. I just don't want a wheel that rubs my chainstays.

Eric.
 

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Dang it, GG I owe you an apology. My last post was supposed to be spoken to HomeBrew. Mea Culpa.
BicycleRider, I say do what ya will, but if you're looking that far down the road for a wheelset, use brass nipples. While they add, what, 20g to the wheel weight, look at any 1970 Raleigh Super Course & you'll find a wheel that can still be trued. Well maybe not trued, but you can likely get the nipples off and they haven't busted the way alloy nipples do after a year or two of hard time. Bonus, they don't round out nearly as much. I think that's something that a concensus can be reached on.
 
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