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Int'l Man of Leisure
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3,268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to upgrade to a good rear bike rack but....
Which is better... the Yak or the Thule???
The Yak is $1 less...
Yak

Thule
 

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Bodhisattva
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10,843 Posts
I have the Thule with the 2 bike extension. Works great, loads quickly and is simple to operate. It's a bit bulky with the 4 bike setup and can't be lowered to operate the hatch in that configuration but most of the time I don't use the 2 bike add-on.
 

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Int'l Man of Leisure
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ncj01 said:
I have no experience with rear-mounted rack systems.

However, if roof-mounting, I think Yak is without parrallel.
Without a doubt!

However, since the 'bike meets garage door header' incident, I don't use one much...
 

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I have used the Sportsworks Transport T1 for years with no complaints. It doesn't work for 29ers, so I bought a Thule (which is the former Sportworks T2) and am back in business. These are the best racks I have used, and I have used quite a few over the years.
 

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The Duuude, man...
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I wish I had photo's of the rear-mount basket I use...I posted them last fall with the Asylum's maiden...basically it's a semi-custom hitch-mounted basket, and I drilled/installed fork mounts...but you can get 2 bikes, full size cooler, folding chairs, gear bag, etc on it w/no problem.

Ah, found some:



 

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highly visible
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3,284 Posts
Over the years I've only used fork-mount roof racks and frame-mount hitch racks on my cars, but the Thule seems like the better design. Especially if its Sportworks, whose design I have used for many years on city buses. As Padre said: simple, stable, dependable.

As for roof racks, I've used both the Thule and Yakima fork mounts. The Yakima is quicker to adjust, but the locks have a tendency to jam after driving in gritty conditions and it's easy to adjust the tightness when you're on top of a "notch", putting you at risk of having it suddenly loosen and drop your bike. The Thule is more solid, but the bolt that mounts it to the crossbars has a tendency to gradually loosen, requiring a drop or two of Loctite. I switched to the Yakima for lock compatibility with my other toys after having my last car stolen, but I would switch back to the Thule if I had to buy again.

Nate, great idea installing fork mounts in a hitch mounted cargo basket. If I were to go back to hitch mount, I'd consider that route for versatility. Might also protect the bike better from rocks thrown up by the rear wheels.

Everyone: what's the latest opinion on fuel economy with hitch vs. roof mounted systems? It's been a few years since I used a hitch rack, and my impression then was that it still cost me at least a couple MPG, maybe (contrary to popular wisdom at the time) nearly as much as a roof rack. Anyone actually done any testing with both?

- Dan
 

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mpg on hitch mount vs roof racks

I use an old "hollywood" hitchrack, but would also vote for the sportworks/thule. I also have an old thule roof rack.

I haven't done any scientific testing, but I am fairly certain that I don't have any additional mpg penalty with my hitchrack, while I could swear that I got maybe 1mpg penalty with 2 bikes on the roof rack.

The bigger problem for me was the added wind noise.

I don't use the roof rack very often, usually when I am traveling with 4 bikes and people, and even the last time I did use the roof rack, I didn't notice it being a drastic different mpg and that was with 4 bikes, 3 clydesdales, a cooler of beer, lunch and one skinny little wife.

these "numbers" are from a large suv. I would expect them to be different for a vehicle with better aerodynamics and maybe not so much torque...

...of course your mileage may vary
 

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I live to bike
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2,450 Posts
I have the Thule T2, and although it is nice and stable, there is just one little problem: The lock does NOTHING! Yes, it locks the arm in place, but all someone has to do is release the qr, and off they go with the bike. Looks like it's pretty much the same with the Yak by the picture. So, if you get it, you need a cable lock to lock the bike to the car, and don't rely on the lock in the arm. I see in your sig you have a Maverick--probably won't be as big a worry with a thru-axle, but I would still have a cable for precaution.
 

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Recovering Weight Weenie
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(Tom) said:
Check out the "Ultra-rack" hitch rack by 1upsa.com (You can find them in the hot deals section of mtbr) Recently picked up one of these and I'm really impressed by the construction (all stainless steel and aluminum) and the design. http://www.1upusa.com/1upusarackhome.htm
Kinda looks like some guy built it in his garage.:p
 

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MTBNate said:
Without a doubt!

However, since the 'bike meets garage door header' incident, I don't use one much...
Yah, but then there's the whole 'bike as a bumper' thing that kinda evens that one out...

It's interesting that while living and riding in Colorado Springs in the early 80's, bumper racks were not popular at all, and now it seems that they're becoming more common than roof racks. I'd guess besides the Burger King drive-thru and garage door header problems, it may be due to the popularity of larger SUV's and the difficulty of getting that 3rd or 4th bike up there (or the wind noise perhaps).
 

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Compulsive Bike Builder
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1,512 Posts
I vote for Saris

MTBNate said:
I want to upgrade to a good rear bike rack but....
Which is better... the Yak or the Thule???
I opted for the new Saris. It fits my 29er, mtb, road bike, and Fatbike/Pugsley style, and when folded up, I am still able to open the hatch of my PT Cruiser. I s'pose I could take pics if you are interested.
 

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Int'l Man of Leisure
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3,268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
cocheese said:
Where is thecheapest place to find the Thule/Sportworks model? I'm in for one of those with the 2-bike extension too. Thanks for the heads up guys. :)
Well, these racks are NOT CHEAP!!!

Ordered from www.EMS.com:

Line Item Sale Price Quantity Subtotal
---- ------------------------------ --------------- --------
1 THULE 512 Lock Cylinders (2pk) $19.55

2 THULE STL Snug Tite Lock $33.15
3 THULE 916 T2 2-Bike Hitch Rack $288.00

Subtotal: $340.70
Shipping: $30.95
Tax: $0.00
Total: $371.65
 

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Is it play time yet?
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331 Posts
shark67 said:
I use an old "hollywood" hitchrack, but would also vote for the sportworks/thule. I also have an old thule roof rack.

I haven't done any scientific testing, but I am fairly certain that I don't have any additional mpg penalty with my hitchrack, while I could swear that I got maybe 1mpg penalty with 2 bikes on the roof rack.

The bigger problem for me was the added wind noise.

I don't use the roof rack very often, usually when I am traveling with 4 bikes and people, and even the last time I did use the roof rack, I didn't notice it being a drastic different mpg and that was with 4 bikes, 3 clydesdales, a cooler of beer, lunch and one skinny little wife.

these "numbers" are from a large suv. I would expect them to be different for a vehicle with better aerodynamics and maybe not so much torque...

...of course your mileage may vary
I'm with ya on this. I had a Thule roof rack on my old MkIII Jetta and Subaru Forester (both 4cyl.). Not only was the wind noise out of this world but I lost 3-4 mpg when fully loaded. As you point out, they were both low torque cars which did not help things.

I went with a Yakima hitch rack on our new Tribeca. I hated it at first until I figured out a more stable set up for loading the bikes. The bikes are kinda "out there".

 
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