Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am trying to tune in the rear suspension a bit; tune out some of the harshness that happens when hitting those isolated logs that you just want to loft the front wheel over but not necessarily want to bunny hop. When the rear initially hits, it soaks it, but seems to hop-up rather abrubtly once I the rear wheel has begun to go over / past the log. I have adjusted the red knob (rebound ?) on the shock in both directions and this seems to do only minor improvements. I always run the shock in the opened switched position (No Propeddle) because I think that the bike is so free from peddle induced bob to begin with, and what little there is doesn't effect me, I would rather have the ride a bit more plush. The only solution that works but creates other issues is more sag. Someone has suggested a large canister shock body to replace the stock RP23, has anyone experienced the issue I have discribed and has anyone modified the shock to the larger volumn air canister? I know everyone is going to say PUSH it, but I am not sure I want to send it off, my shop can install the large canister and if it has shown to be successful this is where I would want to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,564 Posts
I had my rear shock pushed and it did help, but I believe there is still not the "plush" feel that I get from longer travel bikes.

The racer x is designed as a 4" race bike so it has a stiffer feel. If you have ever driven a BMW, you understand the difference between a stiff suspension and a looser one. It's more jarring but, it has its place in the turns.

A larger air canister can help. I haven't tried one yet, but I might be interested in one the next time I take my bike in.

Pushing helps smooth out some of the choppiness, but the fact that you have a shorter stroke might be a bigger issue.

The last bike I borrowed had a 5" travel and seemed much more plush when going over the obstacles, but it did not do as well in the turns or in general handling.

My next bike will either be a moto lite or a pivot mach 5 so that I can get another inch of travel.

A good way to think about this is that with 4" of travel, a 1" or 2" fork compression doesn't feel too bad because you are absorbing a lot the lower end of your travel, which is the more flexible part. But when you compress all 4 inches, there seems to be more resistance and it is less smooth. Ultimately, an additional inch of travel will do more for you (but you can't add that to a racer x) because it gives you the ability to consume bumps in the more "plush" end of your range.

Make sense?
 

·
rack admirer
Joined
·
665 Posts
Since you are not bottoming out...

If you are not bottoming out, then more travel is not your solution.
If you are feeling a harsh kick after a hit, maybe your rebound is set too slow. (I read that you checked it). I prefer a slow rebound, especially on downhill hits where the rebound can throw the rear wheel up and me over the bars.
Try more sag in your initial set up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
752 Posts
I've tried the lots of different shocks and air sleeves on the Racer-X. As far as air sleeves on Fox shocks, the standard RP23 sleeve works the best. The High Volume sleeve makes the shock too linear and it tends to blow through the travel and bottom out. To compensate for that, you have to raise the air pressure and that reduces the sag too much and makes the already firm ride of the racer-x even firmer.

If it's kicking back after a hit, it sounds like you don't have enough rebound damping. Are you sure the damping is working on your shock? Have you tested it?
 

·
parts leftover
Joined
·
997 Posts
The red knob is the rebound one. Turn it all the way off so that your suspension bounces back fast after leaning on the bike. Ride it around and click up the rebound damping until the bike only oscillates once when you sit on the seat hard or ride off a curb. One oscillation is compress, lift, stop. If it bounces again, you need to dial it up more. It felt good at 3 of 9 clicks for me.

Second, I felt kickback from the bike because the stock RP23 has too much compression damping built it (for my taste). The high volume airsleeve solved this. It makes the shock more linear, but if you set your sag at 12mm, you won't feel a bottom out.

If you want to really do it right, buy the shock tune for your weight and ride style from PUSH Industries and have them put the high volume air sleeve on it. It won't bottom out at 12mm sag.

axo0oxa said:
I am trying to tune in the rear suspension a bit; tune out some of the harshness that happens when hitting those isolated logs that you just want to loft the front wheel over but not necessarily want to bunny hop. When the rear initially hits, it soaks it, but seems to hop-up rather abrubtly once I the rear wheel has begun to go over / past the log. I have adjusted the red knob (rebound ?) on the shock in both directions and this seems to do only minor improvements. I always run the shock in the opened switched position (No Propeddle) because I think that the bike is so free from peddle induced bob to begin with, and what little there is doesn't effect me, I would rather have the ride a bit more plush. The only solution that works but creates other issues is more sag. Someone has suggested a large canister shock body to replace the stock RP23, has anyone experienced the issue I have discribed and has anyone modified the shock to the larger volumn air canister? I know everyone is going to say PUSH it, but I am not sure I want to send it off, my shop can install the large canister and if it has shown to be successful this is where I would want to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First thanks for the responses, all worth considering.

The weather is terrible right now, raining, but it should let up in a few days and I am going to follow the directions of turning the damping off and riding then going one click at a time until I either hit the right setting or go through all and determine (1) it isn't working or (2) it is working but not the solution. I think I had done that and had the best I could find which was 4 clicks for my weight of 158, but I am going to try one more time. Maybe it needs to be 3 clicks, I will find out. Also once I hit the spot that seems best I will play with increasing sag. If this doesn't correct the issue I will give the large canister a shot. I hope you are wrong about it blowing through the travel and needing to stiffen up the shock and reduce sag. I can't imagine that happening. The shock is still damped to ramp up as it goes through the stroke just that the initial travel should be softer. The down side would be a little too much bounce when peddling but it is so stiff when peddling I think a little more compliance shouldn't be an issue.

Again thanks for all who took the time. If any one else has had experience with the larger volume canister please let me know what you think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Took it out the other day and this is what seems to work the best;

5/8" sag
2 or 3 clicks out from slowest rebound setting

Very rideable, will live with the bike this way for winter and make a decision if I want to PUSH it or go for the larger volume sleeve or keep it as designed. At this point I don't think I will make any changes, this fine tuning really made a big difference. I am still playing between the 2 and 3 clicks.

Again Thanks for responses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Unfortunately that's the way this bike is. The hardtail firm feel when climbing has its penalty while descending. I had the same issues and I tried the larger volume air sleeve but no improvements whatsoever. IMO this is a race bike for smoother terrain. Even my 3.5 anthem was more bump compliant and trail friendly, not to mention the superlight but no one of them as stiff as the Racer X. Wish if it was just a BMW - like a friend above noted - in terms of suspension firmness, unfortunatelly this is a Porsche.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top