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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Raceface Turbine Z? R? on a Santa Cruz Tallboy. The lever has always had a bad action to it -- suprisingly hard to press compared to my other bikes' posts (fox, PNW). Additionally the dropper comes up a bit slowly and normally needs coaxed for the final 2-3cm.

A bike shop already replaced the cabling a few months ago. It seemed to help some, but soon fell back to its old ways. I don't know if the shop did a good job in replacing the cables or not.

I thought that there would be a schraeder valve under the seat. An old Raceface video said put pressure at 20-40psi. Anyway, when I removed the seat, there was definitely no valve.

So really, I don't even know exactly what model this Raceface is. I understand they merely license others' designs. Moreover, I can only find lame installation pamphlet online. No information about servicing, and definitely nothing of spare/service parts or any way to work on these.

Questions:
1) what model is this?
2) is there any source of technical service documents
3) any source of technical service parts if necessary?
4) ideas why the shifting lever action sucks so bad
5) ideas how to solve the slow up-move of the dropper
 

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That's the 2021 Fox Transfer with Raceface branding (Fox and Raceface are under the same ownership).

As for cable action, first check the actuator on the post. If that's moving smoothly, then the issue is either just your cable, housing, or lever.

For the dropper movement, loosen up the collar and lube the inside - Fox says to use their float fluid, but I'd think that a bit of Slick Honey should also be fine and last longer.
 

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For the instructions: Click here and then go maybe 80% to the bottom and open the "support" thing (click the "+" or whatever). I see no mention of anything to adjust the pressure, but could've missed it.

In addition to what BC said, make sure the seatpost clamp isn't too tight to allow it to move freely. I have to use carbon paste to be able to clamp it gently enough without it sliding in the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's the 2021 Fox Transfer with Raceface branding (Fox and Raceface are under the same ownership).

As for cable action, first check the actuator on the post. If that's moving smoothly, then the issue is either just your cable, housing, or lever.

For the dropper movement, loosen up the collar and lube the inside - Fox says to use their float fluid, but I'd think that a bit of Slick Honey should also be fine and last longer.
Yeah, you're right. Today I took the dropper post out and indeed the serial number and Fox logo on the bottome of the post confirm what you said. The post has a sticking spot on it when fired without the trigger, so at the very least, seems the post needs serviced. Whether that is also the cause of the nasty lever action, I don't know-- The cabling seemed a bit nasty too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For the instructions: Click here and then go maybe 80% to the bottom and open the "support" thing (click the "+" or whatever). I see no mention of anything to adjust the pressure, but could've missed it.

In addition to what BC said, make sure the seatpost clamp isn't too tight to allow it to move freely. I have to use carbon paste to be able to clamp it gently enough without it sliding in the frame.
Yeah, as i mentioned in another reply just now, I have the same slow/sticking point with the dropper post completely free of the bike and cabling.
 

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Easier to maintain?
I don't know about "easier" because I don't have a Transfer/Turbine, but easy for sure. I've had two apart (to replace V1 actuators with V2s) and was amazed at how simple & easy the OneUp droppers are to work on. Beyond this, they're cheap and dependable.

Between my GF's & my bikes, we've got 3 OneUps and 2 BikeYokes. The BYs cost nearly twice as much (and are very good droppers) but the OneUps perform on par with the BYs, are a far better value and OneUp's dropper lever is - in my opinion - the most ergonomic on the market, not to mention it's as smooth as the most popular aftermarket lever - WolfTooth - which I also own. The latter gathers cobwebs in my parts bin after using the OneUp.
=sParty
 

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I don't know about "easier" because I don't have a Transfer/Turbine, but easy for sure. I've had two apart (to replace V1 actuators with V2s) and was amazed at how simple & easy the OneUp droppers are to work on. Beyond this, they're cheap and dependable.

Between my GF's & my bikes, we've got 3 OneUps and 2 BikeYokes. The BYs cost nearly twice as much (and are very good droppers) but the OneUps perform on par with the BYs, are a far better value and OneUp's dropper lever is - in my opinion - the most ergonomic on the market, not to mention it's as smooth as the most popular aftermarket lever - WolfTooth - which I also own. The latter gathers cobwebs in my parts bin after using the OneUp.
=sParty
Interesting, I have a Tranfer, OneUp and the gf's PNW all with WT remotes.
But that is good to know so I will check out the OneUp remote.
The PNW would have been also a OneUp if it would not have been for the need of an external dropper.
I think the Transfer is a bit smoother than the OneUp but you are right you can not beat the price of the OneUp and fingers crossed that it lasts since I only have it a few month.
 

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If all else fails, replace it with a OneUp Components dropper and never look back.
=sParty
I know we've both praised the OneUp posts in another thread... but I was just cleaning and relubing both of mine yesterday and was just thinking about how impressed I am with them. I now have 1846 miles on one and 1728 miles on another, and they both still go up and down like new, with just the occasional clean and relube. I've never had any other dropper post last this long without issues!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
In case anyone cares, as a followup, I took the post to Fox. They rebuilt it in a day for $120. It's hugely more pressurized now. It now reminds me of that cattle-killing tool from No Country For Old Men. The guy who rebuilt it said one of the seals was damaged allowing it to leak air.

Anyway, will try to install it today -- need to refish the shifter housing through the frame (removed the original cable to inspect it for issues) which seems like a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In case anyone cares, as a followup, I took the post to Fox. They rebuilt it in a day for $120. It's hugely more pressurized now. It now reminds me of that cattle-killing tool from No Country For Old Men. The guy who rebuilt it said one of the seals was damaged allowing it to leak air.

Anyway, will try to install it today -- need to refish the shifter housing through the frame (removed the original cable to inspect it for issues) which seems like a pain.
And one more followup.........

This is a 175mm dropper post. I was looking at how it fit into the seat tube and realized it's just too long for the bike. We had it slammed all the way down so that at full extension it's at the right riding height. But in that position trigger is too close to the wishbone where the cabling joins the seat tube. I think the cable was being forced in some ugly contortion. This explains why the lever action was so terrible. So for the meantime, I set it higher in the seattube.

Some other commentary around this odious project.

Threading new dropper housing back through the 2020 Tallboy 4 frame was a nightmare. Just shoving the cable in from head tube side doesn't work, it gets jammed down by the bottom bracket. I tried using that fancy magnetic park fishing tool but once the head got down around the bottom bracket it was getting stuck, like there was somethign else magnetic it was grabbing on to. I removed the crankset thinking maybe I could access the frame from there, but it's sealed -- no way to get into the frame.

What ultimately worked was feeding shifter cable from the seatube side and push-feeding it to the head tube (I tried to coax that with the park magnetic tool but I don't really know if it helped at all.) It followed some sort of channel and came out from the correct hole. then I taped tthat to another fishing line, pulled that back to the seat tube. The fishing line's end has a barb that I connect to fresh housing, and then I can pull that through.

Lesson was don't ever remove the housing from these runs, make sure to pull a fresh run in if you're going to pull out an old one. Rockshox makes a barb tool that will connect the end of the old housing to the head of the new housing.
 
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