[Poolstick]

I picked up a Race Face cinch PM for my Specialized Chisel, which is currently running Race Face Next SL cranks. Unfortunately, when I went to swap the spindles I found I was unable to remove the spindle from the non-drive side crank arm. I've removed the cranks from the bike, as the drive-side was easily removed with the self-extracting bolt.

My understanding is that I should remove the 16mm cap from the non drive side, throw in the 8mm self extracting bolt from the drive side, re-install the 16mm cap, and extract the spindle. Which seems to make sense, but I can't remove the NDS 16mm cap at all. In some frustration I used a long pipe to get some leverage and ended up stripping out the 16mm cap on the NDS pretty badly.

Are there versions of the Next SL cranks where the spindle cannot be removed? It's almost like this thing is glued in there - I had no problem removing the drive side cap. I'm considering drilling/cutting the cap out, but then I'm a little concerned that it wasn't intended to be removed and I'll have more problems when I try to use the self extracting bolt. Since the cranks work as-as (even with the stripped NDS cap), I don't particularly want to mess them up any worse than they already are.

My options are to cut my losses and sell the current crankset or to tear it apart and hope for the best. Before I go for option #2, was curious if anyone else has been down this road and knows whether or not some of these are simply not removable.

Tried to go to my LBS and they pretty much told me to **** off, and Race Face's support page tells me to go to my LBS...

 

[Jayem]

I've been able to do it a few times now, needed a lot of leverage, used a breaker bar and hex socket head. Sounds like that's what you were using? Not sure how you are going to remove it now, most options would probably end up damaging the cranks.

 

[Poolstick]

Yeah, I think that's probably where I'm at unfortunately.

Trying to either come up with a non-crank-breaking solution or likely going to sell them at some loss.

 

[Harold]

I've swapped spindles on my Turbine CINCH cranks before. I've found it much easier to deal with the spindle by putting the crank arm in a vise with soft jaws.

And yeah, I bought a set of hex sockets that I can put on a breaker bar to remove the self extracting bolt OR the 16mm cap.

Question - are you using the 8mm-16mm adapter thing that Race Face offers, an actual 16mm hex bit, or are you doing the kludge that was once recommended to me, to use a 5/8" hex bit instead (it's close, but a bit loose for use on aluminum parts for my taste)?

The cap shouldn't be on nearly as tight as the crank bolt itself, fwiw.

Now that you've buggered it, you might have to get a little creative to remove it, though. Once you do, new caps should be easy enough to source.

 

[Lone Rager]

I've swapped spindles on my Turbine CINCH cranks before. I've found it much easier to deal with the spindle by putting the crank arm in a vise with soft jaws....

What works for me is I put the wrench in the vice pointing up, put the crank on it, and turn the crank arm by hand.

 

[Sidewalk]

I don't remember having to pull the cap off and swap out the extracting bolt on the Turbines I have. Both side had the self extracting bolts.

My Turbine has a Cinch PM now (the other is in a box). are you sure there isn't one in there?

 

[Harold]

I don't remember having to pull the cap off and swap out the extracting bolt on the Turbines I have. Both side had the self extracting bolts.

My Turbine has a Cinch PM now (the other is in a box). are you sure there isn't one in there?

I thought the same about mine. But nope, neither of mine have self-extracting bolts on the NDS. Just 16mm caps. Now granted it's been years since I swapped spindles. I put a fatbike spindle on one when I built it up, but the other just has the stock 136mm spindle. But I just looked at mine. On both of them, self-extracting bolt and cap on the DS, just a cap on the NDS.

 

[Acme54321]

Bumping an old thread, but I just dealt with this. This is the only time I will ever say this in regards to a bicycle, but a 16mm hex socket on a 1/2 impact wrench will whack it right off without messing anything up. That crank bolt is super tight and it's awkward trying to get it off any other way.

 

[Jayem]

Also apply heat, there's likely a threadlocking compound on there.