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ent
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am in the process of completing my parts for my 907 build. The frame and wheels get here on friday and i'm uber stoked to start the build.

I was able to purchase a FSA alpha drive crankset and isis bottom bracket for a great price but am reading some horror stories online regarding the quality of the crank set.

Would you guys recommend I spend the money and purchase the surly mr whirly crank set (or e13 or something else)? or stick with the alpha drive until it goes?

I wanted to run a 3x10 but wouldn't mind going to a 2x10 (like the MWOD). I'm just not sure and to boot I just don't know enough about bikes/cranksets in general to make this call. I"m a firm believer in doing things right the first time so i'm leaning towards upgrading right now and selling my current setup.

Any thoughts? What would you guys do? I plan on commuting this winter (and in nebraska we get a lot of snow) and i'll be doing singletrack trails mostly since this will also double as my regular mountain bike.

thanks for the help guys, this is one of the better forums i'm on :thumbsup:
-christian
 

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Machinist
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171 Posts
Christian I'm planning on a 907 build and have been curious to the cranks/bottom bracket selection as well. Not tryin to highjack your thread but Fatbike's list Race Face on their site and from previous experience I love their product but would like to hear from someone who is using their crank/bottom bracket set on a 907. On another note are you getting one of the new frames or a last years model? What color?
 

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turtles make me hot
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I have not yet had a fat bike but am also buiding one as we speak. I'm going to use the MWOD just because it makes perfect sense.
I've asked this before in another thread but no one answered me... Does the Chris King bottom bracket work with the Mr Whirly crankset?
 

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Banned
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165 Posts
King BB

Yes, Chris King offers bottom brackets that fit both Shimano (constant 24mm diameter) and SRAM (24mm w/ step down) style cranks. I have a set of Mr Whirly's on a King.
Works great!
 

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ent
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Christian I'm planning on a 907 build and have been curious to the cranks/bottom bracket selection as well. Not tryin to highjack your thread but Fatbike's list Race Face on their site and from previous experience I love their product but would like to hear from someone who is using their crank/bottom bracket set on a 907. On another note are you getting one of the new frames or a last years model? What color?
no worries. I'm more or less curious about roughly the same thing. I used one of Fatbike's build sheets to spec out my 907.

I'm thinking for money sake that I may stick with my set up. If it fails i'll just have to suck it up (and pray i'm not far from home) .
 

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ent
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
By the way. I took the plunge and ordered the e13 crankset. Can others chime in if this comes with the a BB (i'm 99% sure it does).

my FSA alpha drive and ISIS BB will now be for sale! 130$ shipped takes it.
 

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What would people go for, for a 1x10 set-up?

Phil BB + Middleburn RS7 + Homebrewed spiderless chainring.

E.13/ Hive cranks + BB, and a Homebrewed 104bcd chainring.

I cant see the weights being much different. The Middleburn will look the coolest, and sounds like a durable combo. But the e.13 is a more modern external BB set-up.

Thanks for any help here.
 

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From a quick look around, rough weights for 100mm triple cranksets (including BB) appear to be:
E.13 ~ 800g
Race Face Turbine w/ Truvativ DH BB ~1100g
Mr. Whirly ~1200g

I think E.13's & Whirly's are close in price, so that's a no-brainer, unless you need the MWOD setup.

For singlespeeding I want to go w/ at least 180mm arms. I'd consider 185mm arms (Mr. Whirly or Profile Racing), but I've heard mention of snow bikes having lowish BB's so would worry about ground clearance. Anyone have experience running longer cranks on a snowbike?

thx,
winbert
 

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E.13 would have been my first chioce, after a fair amount of weighing things up. But I found the Altas in stumpy leg friendly 165mm, and it works out much cheaper this side of the pond.
 

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Anyone have experience running longer cranks on a snowbike?

thx,
winbert
I run cranks 1cm longer on my SS 29er. For that little extra leverage, which is definitly present. My thinking is that on a snow bike, that you will loose traction, trying to slowly lever your bike up a slippery hill. Thats partly assumption, and partly based on my personal winter riding style/ability. So may not be relavent. I'm going with some spin friendly 165s and gears.
 

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It aint gonna ride itself
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For what it's worth, I just installed an Origin 8 Sub Compact ISIS crankset on my 2010 9:Zero:7. Doing so bought me about 4mm more clearance over what I had with a Big Earl ISIS. Will likely now be able to run 2x8 with a BFL out back without having to remove a cog from the cassette. I'll chime in again when I get a second BFL...
 
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