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Discussion Starter #1
Just got my first full sus MTB - a V4 Ripley, which I have been coveting for a long time. I got the 28 carbon wheels and the dealer talked me into going slightly slacker with a 140 front shock. I took it out for my first technical ride and I notice that front wheel slightly wants to flip to the side. Its hard to describe - kind of how torque steer feels on a car. I check the trail and I think that fork only comes in 44, so that right. I have 2.4 Rekons on both ends and I9 hubs. The stem is short at 60. I havent check if the pressure is too high, but is this a product of long-slack handling and any work with a 140 vs a 130? I have never felt this before on a bike and have a Ritchey Ultra with a 120 Fox that does not handle this way.

Any thoughts? Should I switch back to a 130 or just trying increasing the sag?
 

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Mountainbiker
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You need to get used to new geometry. After some time you will enjoy it and never go back.

Gesendet von meinem SM-G781B mit Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. So that odd pull I feel with turning is normal? I can ride the bike no hands with no problem, so its clearly not too twitchy...
 

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It depends where you ride IMO. The 140mm fork slackens the HTA and lengthens the wheelbase, neither of which the V4 needs where I ride most of the time, which are tighter and flatter trails. Out west, maybe so. I tried a 140 at Sedona and went back to 130 when I got home as I didn't like the floppier feel, even though the extra 10mm was kinda nice.

You'll get some that say the 140 is better in every way, get used to it. But EVERYTHING is a trade-off, just depends what YOU want and need.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thansk for the reply. So the 140 feels more floppy? I didn’t think I would be able to feel such a small diff. If I switch to 130 will that go away or is that a new geo property? Made me feel like the handling is a little unpredictable since I have this force now wanting to turn the steering. I didn’t notice it till I was on technical single track going down. Does the Ripmo feel like that?
 

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Do you have spacers below your handlebar and/or are you using a riser bar? If so, try removing a spacer or two or going with a flatter handlebar. See if that helps with the wandering.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I do have spacers, but my cockpit feels pretty good and I don’t have that feel on my 120 hard tail. I thought that those angles/distances only make a diff of below the steerer, not above? If not i can try it...
 

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I felt that the first few rides. Never noticed it after 5-10 rides. I would give it a little time before you change it.
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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I’ve ridden my Ripley V4 with my fork at 130 and 140. Zero difference in the front end feeling more or less “floppy” between the two.

Depending on your riding, the 140 is really nice. Better pedal clearance and more bail out.

I live in a rocky, heavily rooted area and I personally think the 140 is a no brainer for my area.
 

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PMP,TAN,LAUNDRY
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going to 140 made a big difference for me here in AZ when it came to reducing pedal strikes. I felt a small difference in climbing but getting used to it now. I also removed 5mm spacer below my stem after the bump to 140 which seemed to even things out for me. Didn't need the travel but the rock strike reduction was worth the $40 bucks.
 

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I had the same feeling going to a FS from a HT. It took me a few rides to find the sweet spot where to weight the bike. I was just used to what my HT needed.
 

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You may also want to check your headset tightness. If it's too tight, when you turn it will fight coming back to center.

As far as the 130 vs 140mm, people rave about the added slackness and travel on the downs but act like there's no difference in the ups. I don't agree. The only overall advantage you would get IMO is less pedal strikes, if that's an issue. for you where you ride. I run 2.4's and it hasn't been an issue like with the V3. I talked to a mechanic/owner in Sedona, a really good rider, and he went back to 130mm after not liking the 140.
 

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Well these discussions are always interesting. I tried a 150 on my V2 Ripley and it indeed was over-forked. 140 was about right. Wifey is on a V4 with a 140 Pike and we ride Sedona all winter long. She climbs just fine. The guys at the shop in Sedona that carries Ibis are all on Revels so there's that.
 

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PMP,TAN,LAUNDRY
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Well these discussions are always interesting. I tried a 150 on my V2 Ripley and it indeed was over-forked. 140 was about right. Wifey is on a V4 with a 140 Pike and we ride Sedona all winter long. She climbs just fine. The guys at the shop in Sedona that carries Ibis are all on Revels so there's that.
I made that mistake many years ago by putting a 160mm on my yt jeffsy. 150 was primo and a good match for the 140mm rear. 160 just destroyed it now that I think back on it. Climbing was garbage and even the descending suffered.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all the replies... I do actually think I can feel the difference bw 130 and 140 , particularly going up. The steering just feels light. I might try moving my seat forward and increase the sag, but Ive heard thats not ideal. I have an orange 140 GRIP2 Fox 34 and am thinking about just buying the 130 fit4 assembly and switching them out, although I know that the fit4 has not been popular here.
 

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Ibis Ripley V4
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You don’t need to change out the Grip2 to reduce the fork to 130mm.

You simply need a $40 air spring.

Swapping a Grip2 for a Fit4 would be a massive mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the info - where do I get the airspring? From fox? Any idea which part? I heard it's best to overhaul a GRIP2 anyway since it usually has too much grease.
 
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