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QR to bolt on for singlespeed - help!

3061 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by DanD, Jan 17, 2010

burnedthetoast

Discussion Starter · Jan 13, 2010

I have a Redline Monocog 29'er and a set of Mavic 29'er wheels that I'd like to put on it. The wheels originally came with QR skewers, which is fine for the front but I'd like to convert the rear to bolt-on so I don't need to worry as much about slippage.

The questions: would something like this work for what I want to do? If so, how long do I need it to be (and is the stated length the total length, or the space between dropouts)? Also, it looks like the threads extend pretty far in - will this be a problem with my current hub (I think it's Deore, not singlespeed specific)?

Any other suggestions (besides using tuggnut or equivalent)?

PS - I originally posted this in the wheels forum, but it occurred to me afterward that it might get a better (or faster) answer here. So if you're thinking of typing up a long answer, you may want to check there first!

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

Nater

· #2 · Jan 13, 2010

I think you need the Wheels Manufacturing Axle 06 for this conversion.

10x1x174mm solid rear axle.

You'll also need some axle nuts...

Axle

Nuts

Captain_America1976

· #3 · Jan 14, 2010

i think you will need more than just axle and axle nuts, like cone nuts, bearings, etc. your lbs should be able to do the conversion for about $25 for parts and labor.

DanD

· #4 · Jan 14, 2010

Captain_America1976 said:
i think you will need more than just axle and axle nuts, like cone nuts, bearings, etc. your lbs should be able to do the conversion for about $25 for parts and labor.

If the new axle is the same thread as the old axle, the old cones and lock nuts can be reused assuming they're in decent enough shape. As cheap as bearings are I'd go ahead and replace 'em while I was in there but it'd probably be fine to reuse those also.

bryan_d

· #5 · Jan 14, 2010

I am going through the same thing right now, and after using the SEARCH function I found out many things:

- Shimano Skewers can provide the needed pressure and "bite" to reduce slippage.
- Halo Hex Key bolt-on (XL) skewers are also a good solution
- do not use the Axle Rod bolt-on skewer as the aluminum can strip easily

I am going to try out the Bontrager skewers before I go and buy the Halo skewers

bryan d

burnedthetoast

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 14, 2010

Nater - thanks. How'd you arrive at the 174? Also, do you know what the 1 in 10x1x174 stands for?

Capt/Dan - The wheel I want to use doesn't have many miles on it so I should be able to reuse everything if I put in a new axle.

Bryan - I've seen others assert the same thing about good skewers. I have also seen warnings about the Axle Rod bolt-ons. I hadn't seen anything about the Halo hex key skewers, so thanks for that tip.

driver bob

· #7 · Jan 14, 2010

Why the aversion to tugnuts?

I'm running a QR thru nugnuts on my Monocog and have had zero slippage issues.

burnedthetoast

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 14, 2010

No particular aversion... just that I'm aware of that solution and wanted to explore others.

Question for you though - do you run tuggnut on drive-side only or both sides?

driver bob

· #9 · Jan 14, 2010

Both sides, though if I am towing my daughter in the trailer I take off the NDS tugnut.

Nater

· #10 · Jan 14, 2010

burnedthetoast said:
Nater - thanks. How'd you arrive at the 174? Also, do you know what the 1 in 10x1x174 stands for?

From this...

http://wheelsmfg.com/content/view/469/32/

The figures stand for the following...

10mm=diameter of the axle

1mm=thread pitch

174mm=length of the axle.

Basically the 174mm is the only solid axle they make for Shimano hubs. 174-135=39mm.

That gives you 19.5mm in each side for the drop-out thickness and nut threads.

See less See more

burnedthetoast

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 14, 2010

Nater said:
From this...

http://wheelsmfg.com/content/view/469/32/

The figures stand for the following...

10mm=diameter of the axle

1mm=thread pitch

174mm=length of the axle.

Basically the 174mm is the only solid axle they make for Shimano hubs. 174-135=39mm.

That gives you 19.5mm in each side for the drop-out thickness and nut threads.

Ah, thanks!

MaukaRunner

· #12 · Jan 14, 2010

Is there a front specific axle too?

Nater

· #13 · Jan 14, 2010

MaukaRunner said:
Is there a front specific axle too?

For conversion to bolt-on?

Yep, it's axle 14 from the list in the link.

http://wheelsmfg.com/content/view/469/32/

Buy it here...

Or have your lbs order QBP part# HU8257

DirtDummy

· #14 · Jan 14, 2010

bryan_d said:
I am going through the same thing right now, and after using the SEARCH function I found out many things:

- Shimano Skewers can provide the needed pressure and "bite" to reduce slippage.
- Halo Hex Key bolt-on (XL) skewers are also a good solution
- do not use the Axle Rod bolt-on skewer as the aluminum can strip easily

I am going to try out the Bontrager skewers before I go and buy the Halo skewers

bryan d

I went from a bolt-on WTB rear wheel to a qr Bontrager, and no matter how far down it was tightened, slippage occurred. Replaced the Bontrager skewer with a Shimano XTR, and no more slippage.

bryan_d

· #15 · Jan 16, 2010

DirtDummy said:
I went from a bolt-on WTB rear wheel to a qr Bontrager, and no matter how far down it was tightened, slippage occurred. Replaced the Bontrager skewer with a Shimano XTR, and no more slippage.

Thanks Dummy,

I have some Halo Hex Key Skewers coming in the mail, so I will not even get the chance too see if the Bontrager skewers are even effective. But I will keep the front skewer on, and put the halo on my commuter bike.

Keeping my fingers crossed,
bryan d

Dms1818

· #16 · Jan 16, 2010

Go to your LBS an have them install a solid axle. They will take care of the spacing, length,etc. It's an easy conversion.

bryan_d

· #17 · Jan 17, 2010

Dms1818 said:
Go to your LBS an have them install a solid axle. They will take care of the spacing, length,etc. It's an easy conversion.

I was leaning towards this route, but found out that my Bontrager hubs were sealed and made converting to a solid axle impossible. Was my LBS just blowing smoke?

bryan d

PS - I went to two LBS' and they both gave me the same info.

boomn

· #18 · Jan 17, 2010

bryan_d said:
I was leaning towards this route, but found out that my Bontrager hubs were sealed and made converting to a solid axle impossible. Was my LBS just blowing smoke?

bryan d

PS - I went to two LBS' and they both gave me the same info.

most modern cartridge bearing hubs do not use a universally-sized threaded axle where you can adjust the bearing stops into the correct position. Instead they have a smooth axle with stops machined into specific locations (like this). Between the bearing positions, axle diameters, and other factors, every manufacturer or even model of hub can have a different axle. Unless Bontrager makes a replacement solid axle for that model hub of yours then there unfortunately isn't much you can do. However, I have heard they made replacement nutted axles for some of their hubs

DanD

· #19 · Jan 17, 2010

bryan_d said:
I was leaning towards this route, but found out that my Bontrager hubs were sealed and made converting to a solid axle impossible. Was my LBS just blowing smoke?

bryan d

PS - I went to two LBS' and they both gave me the same info.

Well, in your original post here you said that you thought the hubs were Deore. If this is the information that the bike shop had to work with then here is the source of the confusion

boomn

· #20 · Jan 17, 2010

DanD said:
Well, in your original post here you said that you thought the hubs were Deore. If this is the information that the bike shop had to work with then here is the source of the confusion

he's not the OP

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

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