I'm no suspension expert, but I recently replaced my Rock Shox Bar rear shock on my '08 Mongoose Otero for a 2009 Fox Float RPL. What a differance this has made to this bike. The frame is not the most efficient design but with the Pro Pedal on it has barely any pedal bob. For out of the saddle sprints or for long climbs I can lock it out and it's perfect. This is the best purchase I've made for this bike and has made it tolerable for me until I buy a new frame next season.
PUSH'd RP2/RP23, or RPL?
I race cross country, and I love the downhill abilities of my Anthem X vs. my hardtail.
However, climbing leaves something to be desired, and I'm wondering what else I can do besides pump up the shock to 190psi to improve climbing efficiency. I race on the road and on the track as well, so I'm pretty smooth in terms of pedaling, but I'm 140lbs, so as you can see, I'm really boosting the pressure to get the feel I desire.
So, as people on this forum seem to have quite a bit of experience in this arena, I thought I'd post here. I'm debating between sending my current RP2 off to PUSH, or buying the new 2010 RPL. I can also get a barely used RP23 (take off from a new bike), but I've been told that for my specific situation, an RP2 is enough.
I don't know how much custom valving, etc. will help as I am not a suspension engineer, nor do I play one on TV, so if someone would help me out in this regard, I'd appreciate it.
However, climbing leaves something to be desired, and I'm wondering what else I can do besides pump up the shock to 190psi to improve climbing efficiency. I race on the road and on the track as well, so I'm pretty smooth in terms of pedaling, but I'm 140lbs, so as you can see, I'm really boosting the pressure to get the feel I desire.
So, as people on this forum seem to have quite a bit of experience in this arena, I thought I'd post here. I'm debating between sending my current RP2 off to PUSH, or buying the new 2010 RPL. I can also get a barely used RP23 (take off from a new bike), but I've been told that for my specific situation, an RP2 is enough.
I don't know how much custom valving, etc. will help as I am not a suspension engineer, nor do I play one on TV, so if someone would help me out in this regard, I'd appreciate it.
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I've also heard that they (Push, or other suspension tech shops) can modify the internals in such a way as to make one setting a lockout, and the other pretty plush.
Is there any truth to that?
(I'll be racing with a custom made handle-bar mounted remote, so I can turn the rear lockout on and off at will)
Is there any truth to that?
(I'll be racing with a custom made handle-bar mounted remote, so I can turn the rear lockout on and off at will)
Maybe check the Giant forum to get people's Anthem setup advice, but, it sounds to me like you are trying to make a dual suspension bike ride and feel like a hardtail.
Since you are saying you're losing climbing traction on leaves, IMO lowering your shock pressure and letting the suspension do its job, likely your traction will improve. But, you need to ride more in the saddle, or at least not mash on the pedals like you might on a hardtail.
Since you are saying you're losing climbing traction on leaves, IMO lowering your shock pressure and letting the suspension do its job, likely your traction will improve. But, you need to ride more in the saddle, or at least not mash on the pedals like you might on a hardtail.
Huh?fsrxc said:Maybe check the Giant forum to get people's Anthem setup advice, but, it sounds to me like you are trying to make a dual suspension bike ride and feel like a hardtail.
Since you are saying you're losing climbing traction on leaves, IMO lowering your shock pressure and letting the suspension do its job, likely your traction will improve. But, you need to ride more in the saddle, or at least not mash on the pedals like you might on a hardtail.
I'm never said anything about losing climbing traction. Only climbing efficiency due to suspension bob.
If there is something that can be done to my current shock, or be purchased, in order to increase climbing efficiency while allowing me to have a plush downhill ride, I'd like to investigate those options. Hence this thread.
If you want something that will completely lock out the rear of the bike so you can stand and hammer with no rear suspension bob then the RL is your ticket - however when climbing technical terrain having the rear suspension not working is not a good way to go either.
If I was in your situation, I would get on the phone and talk to Darren / Push industries. Ask him the exact questions you have. He will give you a honest opinion (not just pull you in for business).
My overall feel would be to get the rp2 pushed - it will be custom valving and if you describe what you want to Push before ordering they will tell you if it is possible or not.
My $.02
If I was in your situation, I would get on the phone and talk to Darren / Push industries. Ask him the exact questions you have. He will give you a honest opinion (not just pull you in for business).
My overall feel would be to get the rp2 pushed - it will be custom valving and if you describe what you want to Push before ordering they will tell you if it is possible or not.
My $.02
Heh, I read this comment you posted too fast I guess:Le Duke said:Huh?
I'm never said anything about losing climbing traction. Only climbing efficiency due to suspension bob.
If there is something that can be done to my current shock, or be purchased, in order to increase climbing efficiency while allowing me to have a plush downhill ride, I'd like to investigate those options. Hence this thread.
"However, climbing leaves something to be desired, and I'm wondering what else I can do besides pump up the shock to 190psi to improve climbing efficiency."
and somehow translated that to "climbing on leaves..."
oops...
Like was said by 006-007, if you talk to PUSH about custom tuning the shock (and maybe the fork too), they should be able to get the feel and performance you want.
Or, an RP23 would allow you to turn on Propedal at the level you want for climbing, then flip it to open for descents, which may suit you better than a fixed PUSH tuning, but would cost more also.
I have a PUSHED Rp23 and its the plushest shock yet out of the saddle or mashing hard its like climbing on my hardtail with the traction of a FS. Correct me if I am wrong but stock shocks are valved around a 165 LB rider. Push will set your shock for your weight, bike, and riding style. with this shock it feels locked out on the climb but hit a bump and its all Plushhh!
The only time I switch the lever is if I have a couple of miles of downhill to really open it up. otherwise set it and forget it. Just my humble Opinion.
The only time I switch the lever is if I have a couple of miles of downhill to really open it up. otherwise set it and forget it. Just my humble Opinion.
Le Duke,
A couple of things.
First off, the Maestro suspension design is a personal favorite as it provides very good leverage characteristics with a very mechanically efficient design. This is important, because even though you may see a little suspension bob while pedaling, it's not really robbing you of power to the wheel to the ground. Mentally it can be bothersome, especially in a race situation, but generally speaking as you've mentioned it's going to be much faster than your hardtail.
Secondly, your RP2 is a great unit. With a little tuning I'm sure you'd be able to get it where you'd like it. For someone like yourself you'd just have to understand that you'll need to give up a little small bump sensitivity in order to maximize the efficiency. Very high levels of Propedal firmness=less small bump sensitivity. In your case, again comparing to an HT, you're still going to be WAY ahead.
If you'd like to get more in depth you can either reach me at my office, or email me with your contact info and I'd be happy to help you out.
Darren
[email protected]
(970) 278-1110 ext. 302
A couple of things.
First off, the Maestro suspension design is a personal favorite as it provides very good leverage characteristics with a very mechanically efficient design. This is important, because even though you may see a little suspension bob while pedaling, it's not really robbing you of power to the wheel to the ground. Mentally it can be bothersome, especially in a race situation, but generally speaking as you've mentioned it's going to be much faster than your hardtail.
Secondly, your RP2 is a great unit. With a little tuning I'm sure you'd be able to get it where you'd like it. For someone like yourself you'd just have to understand that you'll need to give up a little small bump sensitivity in order to maximize the efficiency. Very high levels of Propedal firmness=less small bump sensitivity. In your case, again comparing to an HT, you're still going to be WAY ahead.
If you'd like to get more in depth you can either reach me at my office, or email me with your contact info and I'd be happy to help you out.
Darren
[email protected]
(970) 278-1110 ext. 302
Fox Float RP2 remote kit
Hi there,
In regards to your rear shock, I have a remote kit available for the Fox Float RP2. See the link below for more info:
https://www.precisionkinetic.com/image_host/foxshockremote.jpg
Cheers,
Dave
Hi there,
In regards to your rear shock, I have a remote kit available for the Fox Float RP2. See the link below for more info:
https://www.precisionkinetic.com/image_host/foxshockremote.jpg
Cheers,
Dave
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