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Any suggestions for settings on a Fox 36 original Grip2 damper 150mm (black spring). Feels good on the small bumps, but tends to be a little harsh on the bigger stuff. Hoping to get a better starting point than where I'm currently at.

Thanks!
I have this setup and I found running more air in the bottom out piston really helped with big bumps.

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Any suggestions for settings on a Fox 36 original Grip2 damper 150mm (black spring). Feels good on the small bumps, but tends to be a little harsh on the bigger stuff. Hoping to get a better starting point than where I'm currently at.

Thanks!
sounds like spikey hsc
 
I took out the spring and tried without it.
It goes pretty smoothly all the way.
After that, I removed the plastic sleeve. And put back coil. And the situation has improved.
It still needs extra force to break through but is half as much as before. I am satisfied with such a condition. Except it's noisier now. The spring hitting the station and produces noise.
Now i am also in search for sleeve replacement.
This sleeve actualy is "heat shrinkable tube".
Maybe I yust try with new one. But need to look that version of heat shrinkable tube is without adition adhesive.
I had the same problem but my solution was to cut the plastic sleeve and leave just a couple of inches in, that way the binding is mostly gone but no rattling.

But I am frankly a bit tired of dealing with the Pike and all the stuff I need to constantly do to make it work decently ... if it is not the seals, it is the air build up, if it is not the air build up is the air spring, you get rid of the air spring and install ACS3 coil, great, but after a while it still binds because the air build up is back, You upgrade to a 2.1 cartridge trying to get a better LSC, it does but then the plastic sleeve in the coil starts to bind, and then of course the air build up is back. Now the strangest thing: when I open the left (coil) leg there is a distinct hiss, and when I compress the fork you can hear air being forced through internally ... go figure ... this is the spring side.

The result is an unpredictable fork. It works fantastic when it does, but literally in a couple of days it can feel like crap ... it has been five years, it might be time for a DVO Diamond.
 
In one moment I was suspicious that coil and shrink is the problem which creates bindings. But it was not.
How did I come to that conclusion?...
I removed lowers. And I tried to compress the spring leaning only on the shaft. And there were no bindings. So it was not an acs-3 kit which created bindings. Binding is done by bushings and stanchions. And this needs to be smooth.
I tried my best to do my fork work as best as possible. And the last thing I did was polish the stanchions. I was trying with my fingernail to scratch on stanchions and I realized that stanchions were not perfectly smooth. (Some say that this is on purpose. That this pores holding beter oil and lubrications is better on bushings which improve live time of bushings. o_O ) It was a little smoother only in the sag zone. (to mark "20%") Probably because of self polishing by time use. But it was much worse in higher travel at the top.
I removed lowers and polished complete stanchions (with Cerium Oxide. That is powder for polishing glass)
This polishing was not damage coating. And markings of sag/travel look the same.
That improved smoothness pretty much. And now fork work as it should!
(Before polishing I resized bushings and try how it works. Which can also be the problem. Tight Bushings = Harshness
But it was not in my case. I did not feel significant improvement after resizing bushings. )
 
Cant believe i didnt find this before
So i converted my none boost pikes with charger rct3 (1??) to 140mm push acs 3 lst year
i was sent the blue? spring at 78kg naked
i run these on my hard tail. but the support under pedalling out of the seat was dire.. even using pedal/lockout it wasnt great
anyway, i grabbed a green spring and that helped a fair bit...
however, i have just swapped frames, and ideally would like to get a replacement shaft to extend the forks to 150mm.. anyone know where to get jsut this part in the UK? jsut tried TFtuned
is there a better damper that will make a signficant difference? ie charger 2 or 2.1 (although all i can see are rct3 models and i feel the none 3 position damper would be better)
thanks
 
Cant believe i didnt find this before
So i converted my none boost pikes with charger rct3 (1??) to 140mm push acs 3 lst year
i was sent the blue? spring at 78kg naked
i run these on my hard tail. but the support under pedalling out of the seat was dire.. even using pedal/lockout it wasnt great
anyway, i grabbed a green spring and that helped a fair bit...
however, i have just swapped frames, and ideally would like to get a replacement shaft to extend the forks to 150mm.. anyone know where to get jsut this part in the UK? jsut tried TFtuned
is there a better damper that will make a signficant difference? ie charger 2 or 2.1 (although all i can see are rct3 models and i feel the none 3 position damper would be better)
thanks
Hi, I installed a charger 2.1 and it made a bit of a difference just because it had a softer setting for low speed rebound that helped with my body weight (155 pounds). But other than that it made really no difference. I am selling a PIke 150 (A1-A3, 2014-2017 non-boost) ACS3, as well as blue and organge spring. Not sure what the cost would be to UK but it is probably not too bad.
 
Are most people going up in spring size ?
I have 160mm lyrik on a GG smash with the orange spring. Pretty green to the coil world. Should I install the preload spacers since I’m at the end of the spectrum ? At about 25% sag. Got about 15 psi in the air shaft. High speed and low speed compression open. Fork feels pretty plush now but coming off a pretty gnarly injury so not riding too hard. Scared about going OTB since it’s so plush.
 
Are most people going up in spring size ?
I have 160mm lyrik on a GG smash with the orange spring. Pretty green to the coil world. Should I install the preload spacers since I'm at the end of the spectrum ? At about 25% sag. Got about 15 psi in the air shaft. High speed and low speed compression open. Fork feels pretty plush now but coming off a pretty gnarly injury so not riding too hard. Scared about going OTB since it's so plush.
Might be too soft, hard to say. Personally, on a 170mm blue I'm getting about 15mm sag, way too little, and I have to run a ton of rebound in an attempt to control it. I run virtually no pressure in the abs and my damper cart has its own abs and even dropping to flat I'm not engaging it. So I'm going down in spring force to orange.

But it sounds like you might be in the opposite situation. You have to gauge it on how much travel you are using vs the terrain you are riding. On most stuff, I'm missing out on about 1.5-2" of travel. I'm not saying I should be using "full travel" all the time, but -2 is pretty significant.
 
Might be too soft, hard to say. Personally, on a 170mm blue I'm getting about 15mm sag, way too little, and I have to run a ton of rebound in an attempt to control it. I run virtually no pressure in the abs and my damper cart has its own abs and even dropping to flat I'm not engaging it. So I'm going down in spring force to orange.

But it sounds like you might be in the opposite situation. You have to gauge it on how much travel you are using vs the terrain you are riding. On most stuff, I'm missing out on about 1.5-2" of travel. I'm not saying I should be using "full travel" all the time, but -2 is pretty significant.
thanks for sharing experience. How much do you weight ?
 
thanks for sharing experience. How much do you weight ?
About 170, although angles have a lot to do with how much of your weight is on it.
 
Are most people going up in spring size ?
I have 160mm lyrik on a GG smash with the orange spring. Pretty green to the coil world. Should I install the preload spacers since I'm at the end of the spectrum ? At about 25% sag. Got about 15 psi in the air shaft. High speed and low speed compression open. Fork feels pretty plush now but coming off a pretty gnarly injury so not riding too hard. Scared about going OTB since it's so plush.
I was in your boat last spring, coming off a tough injury and really needing high quality suspension, thus I went with the ACS3. Fox 36 Grip2 at 140. I weigh around 185 and run the black spring per Push recommendation. Running about 20% sag and just a smidgen of pressure in the bump stop. I've went back and forth with a lighter spring(green in my case)but it didn't feel right. Actually felt more harsh, which I came to believe was "packing up" or just too much sag, so I switched back to black. Black got me riding higher in the travel, and once I sped up the rebound and added a fair bit of compression, I've found that sweet spot.

After a year of riding this setup, for me it was much like an air spring fork whereby you have to get the sag correct FIRST, then dial in rebound, then dial in compression. With ACS3 though I found that it can need more rebound and compression than you think it does. One of the Push reps had mentioned that to me awhile back, but I guess I'm a slow learner! Don't give up, this thing is amazing. FYI I'm not a "jumper" per se, but I do like going fast thru technical rocks and roots both up and down and in between

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Just installed ACS3 on my 160 Lyrik with a blue spring and I am getting a weird creaky/rubby feeling during slow compressions. Almost like the spring is rubbing inside the stanchions and transmitting the vibrations up, so its pretty annoying. I checked that the heat shrink is in the middle which it is. I have greased with slick honey, but with no improvement. Is this normal? What else can be done? Should I just try more heat shrink or thicker grease?
 
When you put spring inside a stanchion. You must be sure that spring sits down correctly on red plastic. One part of red plastic should fit inside of the spring. (5mm or so).
I once mounted a spring on top of that red part. And I had issues like that. (And of course after few testing jump/hits in my garage i broke that red part X.x)
At first I was surprised why I needed to press the spring with a top screw before thread bite.
If spring is mounted correctly. Top Screw should go freely to 50% thread. Then after that 50% should start pre-compress spring.

If This is not the case.
One thing that you can do. To be sure that ACS-3 is a problem (or it is not).
That you remove lowers and try to compress the spring only on the shaft.
Damper side compress max inside and fix in that position with electrical tape. (you do not want both shafts on the floor)
Put some rag on the floor. And compress the spring with a shaft.
Be sure that you compress 100% vertically to not bend the shaft.

If everything is fine mounted. No vibrations should be felt as you describe.
Maybe with bigger jumps, a little spring will vibrate, but like this, just by trying with your hands. not.
Slick Honney should be fine.

I had some sticking problems/ high braking force. And I was sure that something with acs3 is a problem. And I tried everything to improve the system with not much success. And finally i realized is that the bushings is the parts which create frictions in deaper travels. Deeper you go in travel. More stress is on bushings and there is all your friction.
Acs3 is noticeable only in the sag part.After bushings disrupting everything. And there is not much improvement.
 
Just installed ACS3 on my 160 Lyrik with a blue spring and I am getting a weird creaky/rubby feeling during slow compressions. Almost like the spring is rubbing inside the stanchions and transmitting the vibrations up, so its pretty annoying. I checked that the heat shrink is in the middle which it is. I have greased with slick honey, but with no improvement. Is this normal? What else can be done? Should I just try more heat shrink or thicker grease?
Remove the spring and see if the red spring bearing (plastic top-hat presses lightly on top of the lower assembly and at the bottom of the spring) has broken. Use a flashlight and/or a coat hanger ....or shake upside down. This can cause the spring bind if it's broken as the bottom of the spring no longer sits flush.
 
Picked up a used Push'd Fox 36. Towards the end of the ride, when I wasn't really hammering down and on very mellow terrain, the initial part of the travel felt a little sticky. Could it be I just need a service?
 
Picked up a used Push'd Fox 36. Towards the end of the ride, when I wasn't really hammering down and on very mellow terrain, the initial part of the travel felt a little sticky. Could it be I just need a service?
yea, pull it down and see if it still has oil. grease it nicely and maybe replace seals.
if it doesn't work, probably you are on a wrong spring rate?
mine works really well.
 
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