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Prophet Seatpost Q

1364 Views 26 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  CdaleTony
I recently got an 06 Prophet 600 and I find that i'm too cramped in the cockpit. My knees are over the pedals and I need to get back more. Id like to get a Thomson set back post but im not sure what size i need. Does anyone know?? Thanks
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27.2, You can also mount your saddle further back on the seat post.
Thanks alot. My seats already slammed as far back as it can get. The seatpost the bike comes with sucks, it doesnt even have a swept back clamp at the top. I'm in between sizes, and the Large was the best for stand over clearance. Only problem im worried about with the thomson is being able to get behind it going downhill...
Only problem im worried about with the thomson is being able to get behind it going downhill...[/QUOTE]The Thomson, though it looks dramatic, only has 16mm of set back, so it is actually quite within range of a majority of most setbacks out there. FSA offers a seatpost that has 35mm if you need more. You won't have an issue getting behind it. Good luck!
Quick question chaps:
I got the Thomson 27.2 today and installed it--the position is perfect. The only problem is, the seatpost moves in the tube. If i grip the saddle and give it some force it spins--I can even do it with my legs if i try. I tried tightening down the quick release, but in order for it to not turn easily, I have to make it damn near impossible to get shut--and it still spins slightly. Is something wrong here?
Seat clamp

I've heard that other people have also had problems clamping their seatposts on Prophets.
Mine is ok I have it really, really tight, so I bought a Hope seat clamp which I find has a smoother action and is a bit more ergonomical.

Looks nice too in silver to match my silver Prophet graphics ;)
Try taking some rubbing alcohol to the seat tube and inside the frame via a rag. Might just have some oil or other stuff that assists movement in there/on it. I personally love acetone (but it likes to take off paint) and use it on a lot of metal on metal contact points like fork tubes and tripple clamps on dirt bikes. Getting rid of the lubricants is key to keeping parts from moving.

Or you can always try old never fail: If it's supposed to move and it doesn't use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't use Superglue! (duct tape also applies here)
wakeboardR2wheels said:
Try taking some rubbing alcohol to the seat tube and inside the frame via a rag. Might just have some oil or other stuff that assists movement in there/on it. I personally love acetone (but it likes to take off paint) and use it on a lot of metal on metal contact points like fork tubes and tripple clamps on dirt bikes. Getting rid of the lubricants is key to keeping parts from moving.

Or you can always try old never fail: If it's supposed to move and it doesn't use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't use Superglue! (duct tape also applies here)
All due respect, but, YIKES! Seatposts, and any other sliding metal/metal contact NEEDS lube/grease. Otherwise mechanics like myself, end up having to hacksaw out your old seatpost one little lengthwise sliver at a time, talk about a long process! Even though it's not steel, aluminum on aluminum creates galvanic corrosion, and it's just as "stuck inducing" as rust. With no protection, this will be the case every time, unless you move your post all the time, to keep it at bay. That bit spoken to, what you need is a better clamp, like a Salsa or a Hope, they tighten better, and have more oomph to them. If this fails, you have a frame that needs looking at by a rep, as it may be over-bored, and since Cannondale uses Thomson posts on some bikes, you won't get some story about it being the posts fault, which it can be with some posts. Hope that helps!
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I think another good question ask would be what size seatpost clamp?
Pedro K said:
I think another good question ask would be what size seatpost clamp?
It will be a 32mm. Actual size is 31.8, but they don't make it like that.
KarlosPirahna said:
My Hope clamp is 31.8.
I stand, corrected. Salsa only makes 32, sorry for the confusiuon!
The Salsa is great, I highly recommand it.

And by the way, metal seatposts: grease. Carbon seatposts: no grease!
And by the way, metal seatposts: grease. Carbon seatposts: no grease![/QUOTE]
You know, I had that in my head as I was typing, but forgot to type it, good point=:)
MendonCycleSmith said:
You know, I had that in my head as I was typing, but forgot to type it, good point=:)
I know you know! :D
Ok. SO I need to get a Salse 32 Seatpost clamp and then put some kind of lube on the seat post. I'll try that. I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks alot!
PS. just to confirm, the post isnt supposed to move at all when its tightened right?
chris_nor_cal said:
just to confirm, the post isnt supposed to move at all when its tightened right?
Right
MendonCycleSmith said:
All due respect, but, YIKES! Seatposts, and any other sliding metal/metal contact NEEDS lube/grease. Otherwise mechanics like myself, end up having to hacksaw out your old seatpost one little lengthwise sliver at a time, talk about a long process! Even though it's not steel, aluminum on aluminum creates galvanic corrosion, and it's just as "stuck inducing" as rust. With no protection, this will be the case every time, unless you move your post all the time, to keep it at bay. That bit spoken to, what you need is a better clamp, like a Salsa or a Hope, they tighten better, and have more oomph to them. If this fails, you have a frame that needs looking at by a rep, as it may be over-bored, and since Cannondale uses Thomson posts on some bikes, you won't get some story about it being the posts fault, which it can be with some posts. Hope that helps!
I'm a bicycle hack, I'll admit it. I was thinking short term solution, you obviouly know the long term failures to my inexperience! Lube it up and stick it in - as the man says! :)
what kind of lube and how much are we talking
chris_nor_cal said:
what kind of lube and how much are we talking
WD40....

J/K :D
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