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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
HI
Unfortunately two or three caveats from my side about the rip9 THESE ARE UPSIDE-DOWN PICTURES THE HOLDERS ARE ON THE WRONG SIDE OF SEATSTAYS' BAR!



and rp23

In my opinion the cable holder should be placed more on the outside of
chainstays. Due to this reason cable route must go between seatstays
almost rubbing the tyre. To place the cable on the outside of
chainstays makes it bent too much. I am compromised on tyre clearance
as far as riding in wet condition (mud, leavesetc) is concerned.

Fox's rp23 shock has second posiotion flawed. The only working are 1
and 3, which means fully active and full amount of propedal- lockout.

Moreover the shock does not decompress fast enough after being
squeezed by exerting force on the saddle for instance by an elbow. I
carried out tests with my acquaintance on SC Bullit and while his
single pivot suspension returns right after removing the elbow, the
CVA suspension is slower. Rebound is in its fastest position. Tried many times.

It should've been my dream bike. I'd like my rp23 to react faster and have its 2 position, but the frame cable routing holder will not displace.
 

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Ah Davidcopperfield, I don't know wether to laugh or cry. I'm not going to comment on cable routing or the speed of rebound issue, but with respect to your "second posiotion flawed", please read your Fox manual or download and read it from the Fox website. The lever has 2 positions, Propedal on and Propedal off, the level of Propedal is adjusted independently by rotating the knob on the face of the Propedal lever. Read the manual, work out how to do it. Good luck, you may need it.
 

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Davidcopperfield said:
HI
Unfortunately two or three caveats from my side about the rip9

and rp23

In my opinion the cable holder should be placed more on the outside of
chainstays. Due to this reason cable route must go between seatstays
almost rubbing the tyre. To place the cable on the outside of
chainstays makes it bent too much. I am compromised on tyre clearance
as far as riding in wet condition (mud, leavesetc) is concerned.

Fox's rp23 shock has second posiotion flawed. The only working are 1
and 3, which means fully active and full amount of propedal- lockout.

Moreover the shock does not decompress fast enough after being
squeezed by exerting force on the saddle for instance by an elbow. I
carried out tests with my acquaintance on SC Bullit and while his
single pivot suspension returns right after removing the elbow, the
CVA suspension is slower. Rebound is in its fastest position. Tried many times.

It should've been my dream bike. I'd like my rp23 to react faster and have its 2 position, but the frame cable routing holder will not displace.
Are you huffing ether?

Elbow on teh seat test? I can tell you must LIVE on the internet. Do you ski? Are you one fo those guys at the ski shop who flexes every ski or snowboard with your knee and wanders around..."Too flexy...too stiff..."

When you actually RIDE your bike you may get an idea how the RP23 rebounds. Comparing his bullit to your Linkage bike is like comparing apples and monkey poo. Leverage ratios etc etc are all different. And Waydown south is right. Read the manual.

Ether huffer.
 

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I did a google image search on Niner Rip 9 and I didn't see anybody routing the cable on the inside of the seat stays.

Here are links to the first few pics I came across that show the rear derailleur cable routing:
https://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2008/01/niner_rip9_04.jpg

https://www.bikemastersomaha.com/images/rip9_lg.jpg

https://www.mbaction.com/Media/News/IMG_8467.JPG

Granted, I have not built a geared bike in the past year or two due to riding single speed, but I am not sure if you have enough cable housing, looks a little too 'tight', especially since you have a moving rear triangle. Did you do this or a bike shop?

Marty
 

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Davidcopperfield said:
HI
Unfortunately two or three caveats from my side about the rip9

and rp23

In my opinion the cable holder should be placed more on the outside of
chainstays. Due to this reason cable route must go between seatstays
almost rubbing the tyre. To place the cable on the outside of
chainstays makes it bent too much. I am compromised on tyre clearance
as far as riding in wet condition (mud, leavesetc) is concerned.

Fox's rp23 shock has second posiotion flawed. The only working are 1
and 3, which means fully active and full amount of propedal- lockout.

Moreover the shock does not decompress fast enough after being
squeezed by exerting force on the saddle for instance by an elbow. I
carried out tests with my acquaintance on SC Bullit and while his
single pivot suspension returns right after removing the elbow, the
CVA suspension is slower. Rebound is in its fastest position. Tried many times.

It should've been my dream bike. I'd like my rp23 to react faster and have its 2 position, but the frame cable routing holder will not displace.
2008 RIP9 cable routing at this location should be OUTSIDE the stay. The cable stop is in the correct position. My housing does not make a radical bend at all.

The Fox propedal is either ON or OFF. Two positions. Yours works properly. The "3 positions" you are confusing with the propedal lever are on the circular knob under the propedal lever, which allows 3 settings of firmness when the propedal lever in engaged. This is clearly explained in the Fox user guide on the web. Complete with pictures even.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
marty_hd said:
I did a google image search on Niner Rip 9 and I didn't see anybody routing the cable on the inside of the seat stays.

Here are links to the first few pics I came across that show the rear derailleur cable routing:
https://reviews.mtbr.com/files/2008/01/niner_rip9_04.jpg

https://www.bikemastersomaha.com/images/rip9_lg.jpg

https://www.mbaction.com/Media/News/IMG_8467.JPG

Granted, I have not built a geared bike in the past year or two due to riding single speed, but I am not sure if you have enough cable housing, looks a little too 'tight', especially since you have a moving rear triangle. Did you do this or a bike shop?

Marty
So how can you explain this picture of my rip9? It has completely diiferent cable routing.
So my frame is flawed or did I get one of the cursed batch? :(

Compare with yours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Taiwanese welder screwed the job, welded the holders on the wrong side of seatstays' bar. Really nice :madman: I covered 500-600 km on this setting. I thought that was the nightmare of all 2008 blue medium rips, I discovered it while assembling the rig two months ago.
I am disappointed, especially that I got my rip at regular price of 1649$ in July- not 999-800$ in the autumn.
 

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Davidcopperfield said:
Taiwanese welder screwed the job, welded the holders on the wrong side of seatstays' bar. Really nice :madman: I covered 500-600 km on this setting. I thought that was the nightmare of all 2008 blue medium rips, I discovered it while assembling the rig two months ago.
I am disappointed, especially that I got my rip at regular price of 1649$ in July- not 999-800$ in the autumn.
Have you routed it the other way? How badly does it actually effect the gearchange? Maybe run full length housing and rout it where you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
As one can see it forces you to point the cable within seatstays, otherwise it requires a distorsion to bypass the bar.
It looks as if it was designed to run inside the seatstays and this makes a substantial compromise on tyre clearance. Mud and leaves stock up there and scrub the cable. It would be okay on a cheap Walmart bike but not on Niner for 1649$. Although I do not blame Niner guys since propably the culprit is in Asia or I got an example of an early prototypish 2008 batch.

Has anyone had similar rip9? How could this happen when all other are regulars?

Edit: I'll put the wheel back on and take another picture/s
I'll record a video with the shock compression for you to check if it's okay.
 

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All right, people might think I'm a PITA sometimes, but DC definitely has the "wanker of the Year" award sewn up :madman:

Let me re-iterate what has been said.......NO ONE ROUTES THE CABLE INSIDE THE STAYS - NO ONE!!!! It is supposed to be routed outside and there are NO ISSUES when it is routed properly. I have absolutely no issues (cable bowing, gears ghost shifting etc) running the cable properly on the outside - ZERO, ZILCH, NADA!!

As the others said, read the damn manula for the RP23 before you come cyber engineering on here. Also be careful with your elbow test, it may spring back and hit you in the nutts :rolleyes:

FYI, the cable stop is welded EXACTLY where every other RIP9s is, so take a hint - Operator ERROR! :madman:

Go Troll somewhere else.

Oh and WHO sold DC a RIP9 :madman:

By any chance did your mum used to stitch a tag that read "special" inside all your clothes?
 

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DC--

1) You need to route the cable and housing on the outside of the seatstay at the top of stay. From your pictures you will have to add some housing to your setup to achieve this. This does not appear to be defective, nor is it mis-welded (again, judging from you pictures), you just routed it on the wrong side. This is an easy fix, as you can use the same cable, but will have to get some new housing.

2) I think your comparison of the RIP to the Bullit is flawed: they should compress differently, as they have different leverage ratios, etc. However, if you would like to mimic your friend's compression speed (and I don't know why you would, but if you do) you should be able to change the settings on your RP23 to do so. As others have suggested, you should probably download the manual from Fox and play with the settings a little.

Before you write off the bike and fault the welders, etc., try this cable rerouting and play with the settings a little bit. Start by setting your sag on the shock and go from there. Yes, multi-link full suspension bikes with complicated shocks are more complex in the setup, but you need to be patient and pay attention to details to bring them to their full potential.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BigWheeler said:
DC--
From your pictures you will have to add some housing to your setup to achieve this. This does not appear to be defective, nor is it mis-welded (again, judging from you pictures), you just routed it on the wrong side.
See the pictures, which marty_hd provided and compare with mine. To my eye other rips have the holders on the upper side of bars whereas mine are on the bottom side of the bars. Mine pictures are taken upside-dwon that's why it looks in order.
This is an easy fix, as you can use the same cable, but will have to get some new housing.
I'll have to do that but the housing will be bent.

2) I think your comparison of the RIP to the Bullit is flawed: they should compress differently, as they have different leverage ratios, etc.
i was thinking about decompression- rebound, which is slowe than Bullit's
However, if you would like to mimic your friend's compression speed (and I don't know why you would, but if you do) you should be able to change the settings on your RP23 to do so. As others have suggested, you should probably download the manual from Fox and play with the settings a little.
i played with several air pressures 80-130 and it looks slow, however I will record a video for you.

Before you write off the bike and fault the welders, etc.,
The routing on my rip definitely differs from other.
thanks anyway.
 

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DC--

Please at least try the different routing first. Your pictures are difficult to interpret (as are most interweb photos) but it looks like it should be OK. Tight, yes, and possibly with a little bend in the housing, but it doesn't look like it will be a problem. The best thing that you can do -- assuming that you don't want to take this to a shop and have it done by a professional, which I would recommend -- is to route the cable the other way and then take some more pictures for us.

If you're worried about the rebound, then this is definitely something that you can tune with the shock. It might take some doing -- and again, I'd recommend taking it to a shop -- but you should be able to get the speed that you need.

Just a general comment: when you post up a question, then disagree with all the advice that is offered without even trying any of it, then you're not likely to illicit the kindest of responses. Good luck, though: I really think that both of these 'problems' are easily fixed, and neither should require any sort of drastic rebuild. Take care of yourself out there.
 

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DC please say that you don't have your bike held up on a repair stand by your shock piston. That might also keep your rebound on the slow side :)

Edit: Just noticed the bike is upside down, my bad.

Route the cables to the outside, if you don't feel comfortable with it I'd second the suggestion to go to your LBS
 

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