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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been one of the El Guapo's biggest fans since I bought my 2010 last year. Its one of the best bikes I've ever owned. I've really got the racing bug over the last two years racing local races. Local races around here are at Northstar and other super techy areas. Lots of technical climbing and descending and also lots of jump trails. XC race bikes dont do well and I dont care to ride one. I've raced pretty good this year, winning my first race and placing on the podium in several others. My EG has become fat, its up to 32.1 lbs. but its a solid build. I've decided that to climb better I need a lighter bike. I looked into getting a Transition Bandit which would come in about 28 lbs if I just switcehd over everything to the new frame and fork. I was able to demo one last week on two rides, the geo is almost the same as the EG, same HA, low BB, shorter stays, it descends very well but climbs like a hardtail with the faux bar and the falling rate suspension felt power robbing to me. So I've decided to lighten the EG over the winter. I will have to work on it over several months but here is what I have thought of so far.

I'm going to strip the frame and go raw, save appox 125 grams?
09 Fox 36 RC2 to 2012 Fit 160 RLC save 250 grams
Pure V saddle to Silverado Team save 95 grams
FSA Pig headset to Cane Creek 40 save 100 grams
Sunline bars to Easton Haven Carbon save 90 grams
Flows laced to Hopes to Sun Ringle Black Flag Pro save 180 grams
Maxxis Ardent/DHF to Maxxis Advantage/Kenda BBG save 160 grams
Old Juicy 7's with Goodridge lines w/ Galfer rotors to
Avid Elixir 9 Carbon saves and estimated 250 grams

Thats about 1250 grams (2.75 lbs) so far, that puts me in the low 29 lb range, would sure love to get in the low 28's. Any other ideas? I'm hesitant to go carbon cranks cause of the low BB and the rocky terrain where I live. I need to keep the dropper post, I might switch it to the new lighter special ed version. Trying to do this without blowing huge wads of cash so lets keep it sensible.
 

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Great bike! Grip shift is a cheap way to loose some weight and gain function.

I assume you are tubeless already? I rune Ardent 2.25 tubeless and they work great and are really light. What version are you running?

Do you need the dropper for the races?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm running 2x10 and currently they dont have a 10spd gripshift although I hear one is in the works. I ran Ardents last year tubeless with no problems, this year I had two Exo's blow off the rim at speed with 30 psi. I think the exo casing is different then the standard casings, I love the ardent and the 2.25 is pretty light too. The dropper post is pretty much mandatory around here. Also need the chainguide but its only 125 grams.
 

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J:
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If you're gonna strip it, the fork has a powder coat you could get rid of too.

Your list is pretty dialed. The cranks and saddle would be he main things I guess. Maybe you could throw the RP back on there if you can stomach it. Might be lighter than the RS

Glad I haven't had the dough for a dropper, mines a pig @ 34.. 28 sounds awesome
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The Monarch is so much better then the RP23, weight difference has to be minimal. I could save 90 grams by going to the new Command Post Blacklite. I think dropping 200 grams in the wheelset will make a huge difference. If I go to carbon cranks I could save a 1/3 lb but I beat the crap out of my cranks as it is, I can imagine that carbon would take that abuse. I'm actually thinking about putting a Float 32 150 on it, that saves 3/4 lb over the 160. I have to check the A2C.
 

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Trophy Husband
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ESI Chunky grips would save ~60 grams and they are cheap.

I don't know what those Sun Ringle wheels cost or weigh, but the American Classic AM Wheels are LIGHT! LINKY Talk with Bob about price on those.

Also, look into the Specialized 2bliss tires like the Purgatory and Chunder. They are good tires (not sure for your area though) at decent weights.

One other way to save weight would be to go with a light 150 fork and an angleset...although, it may get too low for your Sierra rocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Sun Ringle's are 1585 grams and I can get them through a contact for $389 a set, the American Classics look sweet and are 40 grams lighter, I'll check with BikerBob to see what the price is. I've been looking at 150 forks and they are all 20mm lower in A2C, I think that is too low. I'll probably suck it up with a 160 fork, the Fox is the lightest, Its pretty nice having some beef up front in the chunk. I think if I can get it in the 28 range (even 28.9) I'd be happy. I need to focus on keeping myself in the 170 range too, I always start the season there but I creep up into the mid 180's with all the post ride beers and burritos!
 

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Dozer
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Two ideas:

1. Can't tell from your pics, but if you have a QR seatpost clamp, you could switch to a lighter bolt-on. Also, Do you already have a Ti bolt kit for your brakes, etc.?

2. Concerning the A2C length of the 150 vs 160 -- I remember at one point Cane Creek made a headset called "S2+10" or something like that where there was an extra 10mm of stack height on the bottom cup to help fork knobs clear your downtube. If such a thing still exists, would that effectively bring your geometry and BB up?

Just a few thoughts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I already have a Hope bolt on clamp. I will look into a Ti bolt kit for the new Elixir 9's, I didnt see anything like that on CC's site but I remember hearing about it awhile back. I think I am just going to go with the 160mm fork. I like the robust look of the big fork. When I demoed the Bandit with the Fox 32 140, they looked like toothpicks to me.
 

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what's that rattle?
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Your EG's starting weight is pretty much at my EG's goal weight!

I'm not sure what rings and cassette you're using, but changing to an XX or XO 11-32 and 22-36 rings would probably save ~125g if you didn't need the high end gearing.

Did you factor in the change to the 1-1/8" stem and flush upper headset with your fork upgrade calc? The 2012 Fox stuff is all tapered I believe.
 

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J:
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Good point. The new 160 chassis might be even lighter than that straight steerer version.

Suggested carbon rims in my last post but then I saw the price tag
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah 2012 36 rlc with a tapered steerer is 4.47 lbs, my 1.5 36 is 5.1 lbs. I already factored that in. I need the 2x10's high gearing, I used to spin out my 34-11.
 

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what's that rattle?
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A 70mm Point One or Thomson X4 stem would also be a bit lighter than your Truvativ 1.5.

I just looked into the price of a XX cassette...ouch! You'd probably save more g/$ with a M980 2x10 crank. It's not carbon, but your durability concerns may still apply. How about your pedals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Going to switch stems when I get the tapered fork, not sure what I will get, but it will be lighter then what I have now. Pedals are M520's, could save a few grams there if needed but these pedals are bombproof. The new KS Lev post is supposed to ne in the low 400 gram range, thats 150 grams lighter then the Joplin 4. Thanks for the feedback guys, keep it coming. I am getting anxious to start this, too bad we have about 6 weeks left during our riding season! I found some nice black Titus die cut stickers on ebay to put on the raw frame.
 

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Gonna be tough to save much more weight without spending a lot or ditchin some useful parts. Sell your wheels and I can get you a deal on some Easton Haven Carbons and an X-Glide cassette. Check out the E.13 XC crank..pretty stiff, light and cheap. Works well on mine as a single, you might have more trouble getting your chainline setup with a 2x10. Also, check out Schwalbe's options for light, fast rolling, high volume tires. Go with the snakeskin versions for your area.

-Loyal Guapo Owner
 

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I dig trails!
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craigstr, with racing its all in the engine, then a distant 2nd is the outside of the wheels. A more distant 3rd is the rest of the bike weight.

If you don't have #1 dialed, the rest can't help you. They say the race is won & lost in the off season & a road bike will win you more races than a few pounds.

Proper race training will win you even more.

Otherwise, get some light & fast-as-your-terrain-can-handle tires and set them up tubeless.

Keep the Flows as the difference between handling, volume & reliability probably outweigh weight savings.
Maxxis Ardent/DHF to Maxxis Advantage/Kenda BBG save 160 grams
All of these tires are slow rollers (regardless of knob height). Look to Schwalbe or Michelin. The speed is in the rubber compounds.

A platform you can turn on for shock & fork for out of saddle climbing.

You lose weight. :)

The rest? meh. I'd imagine racing in N* terrain, having bits above weight weenie level would have it's advantages.

You already mentioned the obvious without robbing performance, grips, saddle, headset.

P
 

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I would steer clear of the Kind Shock seatpost. From my experiences (bike shop manager), they have issues, as do all height-adjust seatposts. The difference is Crank Brothers and Rock Shox will gladly warranty these problems and Kind Shock does not answer the phone and will never return your calls. Literally never. Save the weight elsewhere.
 

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I would go with Formula "The One" brakes instead of Avid Elixir 9's. They are a little lighter I think. Also consider going 1x10 with a lighter crankset and an xx cassette out back.
 

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J:
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^^ good brake, though I had to bend the lever to get it close where I like it.


I wonder if anyone makes a kit to ditch the flappy quick release bits on the fork axle
 
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