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Hey Prime owners, I'd love to see pics of your homebrew mudguards for some inspiration. :)
Danshee, when I made mine, I traced and dimensioned it! I have been running it since March... thanks to the ample tire clearance there's really no reason to remove it during dry seasons, since it weighs maybe 40g. 5 zipties total holding it on, the bracing holds it in place. I basically trimmed it down incrementally until it was a perfect fit.
;)

I think you could make it longer if you wanted. No issues with mine flexing/cracking or getting jammed up.

Just made it out of stock plastic sheet- Maybe PeachesN'Cream can chime in and let us know what thickness he hooked me up with.
 

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Learning to Fly
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Just made it out of stock plastic sheet- Maybe PeachesN'Cream can chime in and let us know what thickness he hooked me up with.
I use 1/32 inch thick HDPE plastic that I get from a plastics shop (TAP here on the west coast). I big sheet runs all of $8. In a pinch you could probably buy a soft cover 3 ring binder and cut that up.
 

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Missouri sucks...
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Discussion Starter · #206 ·
So, you guys have had your Primes over a month now, what's the report????
Too busy riding to think:thumbsup:

I'm no engineer so I won't expand on all the technical aspects, but simply put, I'm faster up and down than on any other bike I've ever ridden! I've owned a Sultan and a Mach 429 and I've ridden Epics, Stumpjumpers, an SB95, a Tallboy, Rip9s, a WFO9s and a Foes Shaver and this thing, ON TECH, tops them all. I won't BS you guys and say it smokes a 100mm travel race bike on buff singletrack(but it's close!) but if you like chunk, stop looking! I consider this bike a steal for what it's capable of along with it's "low" entry price.

Everyone keeps wanting to compare it to the SB95, which is a somewhat fair comparison, but the Prime is $500 cheaper! That's a Prime, an LEV and a kickass set of tires. Or a Prime and a Cyber Monday deal on a Fox 34:p

The Prime is a crazy good deal in this market of inflated pricetags and the more I ride it, the more I lean towards the WFO9 being the only true competitor. I realize the Satori and Transition have close geo #s but I seriously doubt they pedal as well as the Prime and the WFO. I've never ridden a Satori/Transition, so I may be wrong, but an old school suspension design compared to CVA and the new KS Link seems outdated:skep: I've ridden many Stumpjumpers which, aside from geo, are pretty close in suspension action to the Kona/Transition design, am I right? Wasn't impressed...

Bottom line, I had my eye on this thing well over a year ago when the concept was thrown out there. I was worried about better options becoming available while Keith got it to the market, but I'm glad to say that it still stands alone:thumbsup: I couldn't be happier!
 

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Great stuff DFYFZX, I am very much looking forward to building it up as soon as it arrives!
I'm Still slightly on the fence on the size ordered, I have been riding a medium rune v1 and a Nomadc in medium for the last year, so I am hoping the medium prime will be just about right! fingers crossed ;)

Build pics will follow as soon as it arrives ;) anyone got any more pics or video to share???
 

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live long and huck
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I have also been busy, working and riding. I have absolutely no complaints, climbs tech very well, bombs down through it amazingly. I've ridden mine in the nastiest stuff that I've taken any bike that I've had, and my Prime handles it better than any of them. Here's a quick video, I scratched mine up a bit. :)

 

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live long and huck
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The 150mm dropouts are ready, should be here in a couple of weeks. Once I get my LG1+ rear hub on, with the 12mm axle, it ought to really stiffen things up, not there's any flex to be of concern now.
 

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Quick question to anyone who has a Medium Prime (or even a large).

Can you measure your rear hose length? I am going to buy a used rear brake, but i need to know if I'll need a longer hose, to adjust price with seller. The brake came in a small 26" hardtail, so I'll need some measurements from you guys to see if it's worth the money
 

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live long and huck
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Quick question to anyone who has a Medium Prime (or even a large).

Can you measure your rear hose length? I am going to buy a used rear brake, but i need to know if I'll need a longer hose, to adjust price with seller. The brake came in a small 26" hardtail, so I'll need some measurements from you guys to see if it's worth the money
1420mm, medium frame, 750mm bars.
 

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Last details to figure in my build, since all I need now is the frame and a chainguide.

I'll be using a 28t (64bcd), and I still have the 104 tabs, and dont feel like chopping them off. Still undecided if I'll use a bash or not (blackspire granny god, or BBG trials bash).

Some people seem to use E13LG1+ with sucess, what size ring is being used? Since stock they are for 32t rings min, and there isn't much material left in the groove where you move the slider to adjust for size, i guess that i can file it down to like a 30t ring height. In that case, there should be contact between the slider and the 104mm tabs, or no?

Since I'll be using a clutch rear mech, can I get away with just a top guide (XCX, for example). Using either the iscg05, or the S3 version (even tough the S3 you cant lower it that much... unless i put the slider bolt in the same place as the forward mounting bolt? But then i might not have acess to the rear one... Or just mount the slider directly in the S3 front hole of the frame with some spacer? I might need something to prevent the slider from rotating though... Still dont know if I'll have interference with the 104bcd tabs

Other idea was to get a blackspire stinger BB mount, and a e13 slider, and then drill the stinger in the exact place to mount the slider

DMR seems to sell a chain guide that works down to 28t, dunno if it works with my setup, since I have the 64/104 spider which may cause inteference... (read MRP below)
MRP micro doesnt work (they say only for spiderless rings, so...)
There is also the hope chain guide, which seems to go quite low for a iscg 05


What seems to be the safest bet for now, is to get a e13 SRS slider/superstar plasma for bash, a granny god and then mount it with a blackspire stinger bb mount with custom drilling.

Any other hack ideas?
 

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Some people seem to use E13LG1+ with sucess, what size ring is being used? Since stock they are for 32t rings min, and there isn't much material left in the groove where you move the slider to adjust for size, i guess that i can file it down to like a 30t ring height. In that case, there should be contact between the slider and the 104mm tabs, or no?
I'm running the E13 LS1+ (basically the cheaper version of the LG1+), 32-36t range, with a 30t ring, it works great.

If I was building from scratch, I would probably just do the top guide and a clutch derailleur. Lighter and simpler...
 

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I am mostly set on just the top guide.
The main thing is that I am using a 28t, with a spider.

The mrp bling ring and guide are possible, but it is expensive
 

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I am mostly set on just the top guide.
The main thing is that I am using a 28t, with a spider.
I'll be using a 28t (64bcd), and I still have the 104 tabs, and dont feel like chopping them off.
The mrp bling ring and guide are possible, but it is expensive
Something to consider... if you're running a single ring on your granny gear tabs, you'll probably need to move your cranks out to get a workable chainline and chainstay yoke clearance.. which may create other issues. Personally... I'd look for another way to do it.

PS- if you are looking or a crankset- the E13/Hive cranks I've been running since June are BY FAR the best cranks/BB I have used. Super stiff, totally silent and simple to work on. The only bummer- since the bearings are outboard/oversize, the BB needs to be removed if you want to pull your BB pivot on the KS link- no big deal. Bonus the E13 cranks & BB come with all tools required.
 

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Well, considering I have a Sram carbon crank, I won't change that. I have a X0 2x10 with the 64-104 bcd spider. (24-38 rings, albeit I will only use a 28t in the granny). According to page 15 of this manual:
Truvativ X0 10-Speed Crankset | SRAM
https://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/..._frame_fit_specs_gen_000000002876_-_rev_b.pdf

I will have a 42mm chainline in the granny. Considering the optimal chainline for our 9spd and 10spd cassettes is 44.5mm, I am way better than the usual 50-51mm chainlines.
I could use an extra spacer on drive side, getting 44.5mm chainline, which will be bang on, but that might leave less axle on the other side... Or I may face the granny tabs a bit. To be honest, I want to sell this spider since aftermarket it is pretty expensive. If I can sell it, I'd buy a MRP bling ring and be done with the chainline.

Chainguide is still a problem though... Word is works-components is working on it, and making a guide: Works Components - Angle Headsets to fit Most Frame Types & CNC Bicycle Components Proudly Made in the UK
Timeline Photos | Facebook

I am waiting on DMR and Hope to reply my questions about the compatibility of their guides with 28t (didn't mention the chainline, just getting low enough for a 28t and not hitting the 104 tabs isn't bad)

There is also pauls Paul Component Engineering - Chain Keeper BB but i guess it hits the frame, see this pic: https://www.paulcomp.com/images/ckbbd2full.png To have it on the granny, it would definitively hit the frame.

If the DMR or hope say it works, good. If not, custom home-made shenanigans it is
 
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