[Canuck Doc]

I attempted to take the my 2002 Fox Float RL (100) apart, but have run into a problem. I looked up the instructions on the Fox website, and followed them. I unscrewed the hex nuts off the bottom of the stantions - well, on the right side, anyway. The right one unthreaded perfectly, but the left one just turns the bolt with the nut - ie. I can't loosen it, so I can't get the fork apart. Does anyone know how to get around this? I just can't seem to get the nut free - it turns fairly easily, but its turning the whole bolt inside the fork leg as well.

I really don't want to have to send it in to Fox just for something this simple, but I don't know what else to do. Anyone?

By the way, I'm trying to take it apart to reduce the travel from 100mm to 80mm.

 

[Homebrew]

Pump up the fork to max. pressure and put a belt around the arch and crown to compress. This should give it enough tension to hold the rod from spinning. Also, remove the nut completely before giving it a tap to loosen.

 

[Canuck Doc]

Thanks for the advice, a follow-up now...

I had tried to pump it to 120 or 140 lbs, but it was as just as freely spinning - there was essentially no difference. How high can I pump it without worrying about blowing seals? Any thoughts?

 

[Chris2fur]

I had tried to pump it to 120 or 140 lbs, but it was as just as freely spinning - there was essentially no difference. How high can I pump it without worrying about blowing seals? Any thoughts?

You missed the part of Homebrew's post where he mentions the "belt" part to compress the fork before trying to turn the nut again. Something like this:

 

[Canuck Doc]

Thanks for the input, both of you - I appreciate the sample photo as well. How high can I pump up the compression on the fork, safely? My previous fork was a Marzocchi Xfly which required low pressure (40lbs), so I was a little nervous as I don't know about Foxes well enough. Can they be pumped up high, and if so, how high?

I'll definitely try what you guys mentioned. Also, what type of oil do I need to put in? Since I got the other side off, its now drained and so I have to replace all the oil on the damping side (I didn't know that I wouldn't necessarily have to do that to change the travel, so I guess I just made alot more work for myself - live and learn...).

Thanks again.

 

[Homebrew]

Try the manual for max pressure. It's online at foxracingshox.com if you don't have one.

For the damping/bath oil, you can use Fox Suspensin Fluid but you can use other oils. I've used Maxima 125/150 (7wt) synthetic fork fluid and it's worked just fine. Others have reported good results with Marzocchi/Golden Spectro 125/150. Exact viscosity can vary quite a bit from brand to brand though.

For the air chamber, you can use the official Fox Float Fluid or other 80wt synthetic gear oil.

 

[RedDwarf]

Wait a minute . . .

I thought you were not supposed to take apart the "Float" forks, sure it's fine for the "Vanilla" forks, but the Float air chamber is "non-user servicable"

I thought you had to send it to Fox?

 

[raceimp]

@ DJBIKER : It's the TALAS that needs to be shipped to Fox for full service... "Cause of the IFP air chamber that needs a special pressure tool when you rebuilt it up...

 

[RedDwarf]

Oh, ok . . .

I have a TALAS Float, and thought I saw something in the manual about not taking that baby apart . . .

and I'm sure that in my tennie, tinie, super small, usless brain, I thought all Float's had the travel adjust and were thusly Float Talas forks . . .

So sorry, master, please forgive . . .