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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

My bontrager race cranks creaks on every single turn of the pedal, so I'd like to remove the crank, re-grease and re-assemble. I removed the 8mm bolts on the crank, and now I am trying to remove the crank from the isis bottom bracket.

This is the tool that I have: Nashbar crank extractor

I first unscrewed the outer part all the way, then I screwed it into the crank by hand until I could no loonger it it in there by hand. Then I started to turn the tool clockwise driving it into the crank. I kept turning it, and it is as tight as it can get, and it won't extract. I feel that I've applied more then enough pressure to remove any type of bolt known to man, and this thing still won't come off. I am guessing by the fact that it won't move it means that the stopper on crank extractor won't let the exractor in anymore.

So what am I doing wrong? do I have the wrong tool? Per nashbar this works with Isis BBs. P.S. i've found similar posts but with no resolution.

thanks,

-steve

Bike: 2002 Gary Fisher Sugar 2 with Bontrager Race Crank and Bontrager Isis Bottom Bracket
 

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Back off the handle. Make sure that the outer part is fully insertery by using a wrench - adjustable, box. Then turn the handle in again. As long as you have the threads fully engaged, it will come off. Some of these crank arms are very tough to get off.

Keep turning.
 

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Remove the tool and take out the washer you left in there. Trust me! I've done it before and so have many others!

Unfortunately, I'm not kidding. There might be a washer that isn't attached directly to the bolt and if you leave it in there you'll be forcing the washer into the crank arm and creating a force that isn't going to do anything. If the washer is removed, you'll be able to see the splines on the BB. Just to make sure the tool is right- remove the tool and put the "pin" on the tool into the BB and make sure it will work appropriately. ttyl, Fahn
 

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vtsteevo said:
Hi all,

I first unscrewed the outer part all the way, then I screwed it into the crank by hand until I could no loonger it it in there by hand. Then I started to turn the tool clockwise driving it into the crank. I kept turning it, and it is as tight as it can get, and it won't extract. I feel that I've applied more then enough pressure to remove any type of bolt known to man, and this thing still won't come off. I am guessing by the fact that it won't move it means that the stopper on crank extractor won't let the exractor in anymore.
Bike: 2002 Gary Fisher Sugar 2 with Bontrager Race Crank and Bontrager Isis Bottom Bracket
As another poster stated check for washers but I have found many times when trying to remove a factory installed crank, It takes a little extra elbow grease to pop the fit free. Then it will walk right off. Usually the factory install never uses any lube when putting together. Remember to make sure that the outer nut is FULLY threaded in before trying to use the inner to press the crank off. Many people don't realize there is a small taper fit to the ISIS spline insuring a snug fit. I would remove both arms and BB and lube all threads and fits with either Never-sieze or a light grease. After the first time removing and installing your cranks, any future times will be a little easier.
BTW I have the same puller in my emergency tool kit I keep in the car. Have used it several times on both ISIS and taper fit cranks. What's cool is that it is designed to do both styles WITHOUT changing anything on the tool.Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies. I will check for the washer when I get home this evening, but I am 99% sure I pulled the washer off when I removed the crank bolt. There was a thick washer attached to the bolt on both sides.

Reptilezs, you make it look so easy in that vid! I applied a significant amount of more force and couldn't get it off. I will double check for the washer tonight.

Regarding threading the tool all the way in first, it only goes in 3/4s of the way in. I then tighted in just a tad with a wrench, but don't want to jam this in there. Is this enough?

Will take pics/vid tonight...
-Steve
 

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i still think you are missing the fat tip for splined cranks. you never mentioned this. look at this pic https://www.coloradocyclist.com/img/product/full/p/parsjcwp6.jpg the fat tip is off to the side. my vid makes everything look easy because i had loosened everything up already. screw in the crank puller and make sure the plunger tip is loose before threading it in. if its really hard to pull hit the back of the puller with a hammer
 

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reptilezs said:
i still think you are missing the fat tip for splined cranks. you never mentioned this. look at this pic https://www.coloradocyclist.com/img/product/full/p/parsjcwp6.jpg the fat tip is off to the side. my vid makes everything look easy because i had loosened everything up already. screw in the crank puller and make sure the plunger tip is loose before threading it in. if its really hard to pull hit the back of the puller with a hammer
That tool has both styles on one end. The tip is stepped so if you have a taper spindle the small part contacts first then if ISIS the shoulder of the flange contacts the spindle to pull off the crank. That is the beauty of that tool. To bad their pics don't show it to well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks like I have the right tool, and I am using the fat lip thats in the picture. There is also no washer in there. Frusturated, I took the bike to the local shop and the guy tried to use my tool in front of me and could not get it off. When we removed the tool we found that the fat lip was stuck in the bottom bracket (it went through the hole that it was supposed to push against). After removing it with a srewdriver/hammer we tried using the shop's Park tool designed specifically for ISIS style BBs. Same thing, the tool got stuck in there pretty good, and we had to hammer it out. The guy had to leave so we will pick this up again Thursday evening. I may just replace the BB because its creeking like there's no tomorrow but most important, I should be able to remove a crank trail side if I ever need to without this much effort!

Will update on Thursday..
-Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, it was the washer. It was jammed in there so much that it looked like it was part of the threading. The nickel did the trick of helping get the crank arm off, and then we got the washer out with a screwdriver and a hammer.

We put on the Truvativ Giga Pipe Team SL BB, which came with its own set of crank bolts. The washer was pre-mounted and attached to the crank bolts, so I will not have this problem anymore!

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
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