Strange... try a reverse bleed
I have a set of the old style Minis so I have some anecdotal experience, but not exactly like the one you've described. My first response is it sounds to me like you have air in the system still. When I first got my brakes I had to shorten both hoses and it took me several attempts to get a proper bleed and remove all air out of the system. I was ultimately successful with help from this board. If I were you, I would try yet another bleed.
If you can't easily remove the brake for a re-bleed, make sure that your bike is positioned vertically, front tire in the air, so air bubbles can't get trapped in the all the curves and dips that are usually associated with rear brake hose routing. First, open up the master cylinder cap (check and make sure you have no holes in the rubber diaphragm) and tap up and down the line and tap the caliper for several minutes to dislodge any possible air bubbles. After you've done that awhile, this time try a reverse bleed on the brake. Get a hold a friend (easier with two people) and a large syringe attached to some clear hose and force brake fluid through the bleed valve at the caliper. Be careful because the excess fluid will spill out of the open the master cylinder so be ready with the rags. Made sure you have absolutely no air in the syringe before you open the bleed valve and force fluid in. Once you think you've run enough fluid through the brake, tap the caliper and lines again then top off the master cylinder. Let the bike sit for a couple of hours and then close up master cylinder and you're done.
If this is not successful try the standard bleeding technique one last time and if that is unsuccessful again you might have a malfunctioning lever and it's time to call Hope.
Good luck,
EndUser
I have a set of the old style Minis so I have some anecdotal experience, but not exactly like the one you've described. My first response is it sounds to me like you have air in the system still. When I first got my brakes I had to shorten both hoses and it took me several attempts to get a proper bleed and remove all air out of the system. I was ultimately successful with help from this board. If I were you, I would try yet another bleed.
If you can't easily remove the brake for a re-bleed, make sure that your bike is positioned vertically, front tire in the air, so air bubbles can't get trapped in the all the curves and dips that are usually associated with rear brake hose routing. First, open up the master cylinder cap (check and make sure you have no holes in the rubber diaphragm) and tap up and down the line and tap the caliper for several minutes to dislodge any possible air bubbles. After you've done that awhile, this time try a reverse bleed on the brake. Get a hold a friend (easier with two people) and a large syringe attached to some clear hose and force brake fluid through the bleed valve at the caliper. Be careful because the excess fluid will spill out of the open the master cylinder so be ready with the rags. Made sure you have absolutely no air in the syringe before you open the bleed valve and force fluid in. Once you think you've run enough fluid through the brake, tap the caliper and lines again then top off the master cylinder. Let the bike sit for a couple of hours and then close up master cylinder and you're done.
If this is not successful try the standard bleeding technique one last time and if that is unsuccessful again you might have a malfunctioning lever and it's time to call Hope.
Good luck,
EndUser
