Power wanted - NOT modulation! Metal or Organic?

The softer the better. That black stuff, forgot what it's called, on your rims will do the magic. They use it when repaving roads.

floatch said:

Hey guys, I've begun riding trials, where modulation isn't as important as POWER! I'm running LX brakes, and have metal pads in back and resin in front. Which pad type seems to be better for "lock 'em up power", rather than good modulation? I like the feel of the resin pads up front, but the metal pads don't quite seem up to the slow-speed on/off that I'm looking for? Resin all around?
What do you folks think?

I've searched, and found lots of important info, but nothing says specifically which is better for slow-speed wheel locking.

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Look for a high performance (but not long wearing) organic (resin) pads they have the best low speed wheel locking ability (EBC red would be a good pick, a little more power than the Shimano resin pads) Metal pads are generally more powerful at speed and less so at low speed, that actually makes them desirable for most types of riding... except of course for trials where easy wheel locking is considered a good thing;-)
There are also trials specific discs (greater leverage ratio makes holding a locked wheel effortless) I have seen pictures of the Hope trials brake but I dont know where it is available.

Lucky13 said:

The softer the better. That black stuff, forgot what it's called, on your rims will do the magic. They use it when repaving roads.

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Hmm... I'm not sure using tar on my rims will help make my disc brakes work better, but I'll try it!

Kidding - I'd assumed people would read "Metal or Organic" and correctly assume I was using discs. I'll look into those EBC reds.

I'm actually trying to avoid buying new brakes, as the ones I have seem okay, just lacking a tiny bit. I think new grabby pads will do the trick!

Thanks!

floatch said:

Hmm... I'm not sure using tar on my rims will help make my disc brakes work better, but I'll try it!

Kidding - I'd assumed people would read "Metal or Organic" and correctly assume I was using discs. I'll look into those EBC reds.

I'm actually trying to avoid buying new brakes, as the ones I have seem okay, just lacking a tiny bit. I think new grabby pads will do the trick!

Thanks!

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I have been told that roofing tar is old school anyhow, taking an angle grinder and putting a radial scratch pattern on the rims is the current hot setup. Don't know if that would work on disc rotors or not (radial scratch pattern) It might be worth a try (buy a discount rotor to try it on, you can find them on sale mail order for between $10 and $20) I would use a corse wire brush (or scotchbrite flap wheel) on a grinder rather than abrasives however (at least to start).

floatch said:

Hey guys, I've begun riding trials, where modulation isn't as important as POWER! I'm running LX brakes, and have metal pads in back and resin in front. Which pad type seems to be better for "lock 'em up power", rather than good modulation? I like the feel of the resin pads up front, but the metal pads don't quite seem up to the slow-speed on/off that I'm looking for? Resin all around?
What do you folks think?

I've searched, and found lots of important info, but nothing says specifically which is better for slow-speed wheel locking.

Click to expand...

What the others said....

In case of rim brakes, there's some stuff for machinery bands which is very good for instant-braking. Not tar and will eat pads like crazy.

As for discs, also check for your brake pads to have a close tolerance inside the caliper. Some calipers allow for some movement of the pad inside them. You can notice it while locking both wheels and rocking the bike back and forth. My Julies suck in that respect and Avids were not that bad while the Deore Mechs are in the middle. Some brakes will be better than others in this.

Warp2003 said:

What the others said....

In case of rim brakes, there's some stuff for machinery bands which is very good for instant-braking. Not tar and will eat pads like crazy.

As for discs, also check for your brake pads to have a close tolerance inside the caliper. Some calipers allow for some movement of the pad inside them. You can notice it while locking both wheels and rocking the bike back and forth. My Julies suck in that respect and Avids were not that bad while the Deore Mechs are in the middle. Some brakes will be better than others in this.

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Yeah, this is a major bummer so far... the shimano pads rock back and forth in the LX calipers, which wouldn't be a problem if I was always moving forward, but sometimes, I roll or hop back, which makes them move just a bit. It's annoying enough to be noticable, so I might try putting a little glob of solder or maybe some JB weld on the edges of the pads before I install new ones...

floatch said:

Yeah, this is a major bummer so far... the shimano pads rock back and forth in the LX calipers, which wouldn't be a problem if I was always moving forward, but sometimes, I roll or hop back, which makes them move just a bit. It's annoying enough to be noticable, so I might try putting a little glob of solder or maybe some JB weld on the edges of the pads before I install new ones...

Click to expand...

Maybe JB on the caliper (if there's any space).

Hayes are better in this respect as there's a post on the piston that holds the pad in place. But I ignore how would those hold up in the long term.

clarks pads

Clarks do some super-soft 'touring" pads for most brake types, they last about 2 rides on a mtb but trial should be ok.