That color looks close to my Retrotec's powder coat. I used Moondust Lime over a black base to get that look. I love it, although yours looks even better.
Powder Coating Tech Thread - Q&A
Hey guys,
Welcome to the way-more-than-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-bicycle-finishing thread!
This is a thread dedicated to answering questions about powder coating (and other finishing techniques). I'm an avid rider and a powder coater in Virginia who shoots a lot of bikes. My intention for this thread is to answer questions and field concerns about frame material types and the effects of baking (such as on Easton scandium frames), repair options (for dents, rust pitting, etc.), about frame prep (how to ensure thin-walled frames aren't damaged during blasting, reassembly concerns), color/finish options (pearls, metal flake, textures, multi-colors, airbrushed graphics, pin striping, lug lining, clear coats, compatibility of finishes), and such.
Cheers!
Len
Here are a couple of pics of my Trance I coated the other day. Bass boat green flake with airbrushed ghost graphics. Should be finished building her up today and getting her dirty tomorrow!
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Welcome to the way-more-than-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-bicycle-finishing thread!
This is a thread dedicated to answering questions about powder coating (and other finishing techniques). I'm an avid rider and a powder coater in Virginia who shoots a lot of bikes. My intention for this thread is to answer questions and field concerns about frame material types and the effects of baking (such as on Easton scandium frames), repair options (for dents, rust pitting, etc.), about frame prep (how to ensure thin-walled frames aren't damaged during blasting, reassembly concerns), color/finish options (pearls, metal flake, textures, multi-colors, airbrushed graphics, pin striping, lug lining, clear coats, compatibility of finishes), and such.
Cheers!
Len
Here are a couple of pics of my Trance I coated the other day. Bass boat green flake with airbrushed ghost graphics. Should be finished building her up today and getting her dirty tomorrow!
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Thanks! Good eye! This one is Starburst Lime. Same tone but a bigger flake size. Did Spectrum shoot your Retrotec?Sasquatch said:
Berkely Mike, thanks for the pointers on the photos! I'm a relative newb with photography, but I do try to use neutral backgrounds. Usually either black or silver slat wall. Those were quick pics. Haven't gotten to crop or adjust hues yet.
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Looks like something liberace would ride.LenMcC said:![]()
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I like it!
Whilst good on the piano, he sucked on the organ....General Hickey said:
Powder Primer and Clear Powder Over Graphics
Great questions...
POWDER PRIMERS
There are a few types of powder primers.
1) Zinc Primer:
The rust-prevention type is a zinc primer. It reduces steel oxidation because the zinc is more reactive than steel, so the zinc gets oxidized first. Same concept as galvanization. Zinc primers are primarily used on items that are kept in the elements and are subject to abuse, like fences and gates. For bicycles, it's not particularly helpful as long as the frame is prepped properly, which means the metal is "white blasted" immediately prior to coating (super-clean and free from all oxidation). Many coaters do not white blast their pieces.
2) Filler Primer:
Filler primers are more like liquid paint primers. The primary goal of these are to give the frame a nice smooth surface prior to the color coat. These are great for filling small scratches and rust pits. For heavy pitting, deep gouges, and dents, a special conductive, high-temp bondo-type body filler can be used.
3) Powder Primer Under Wet Paint:
Another use for either of those primers is as a base for wet paint. This can increase wet paint adhesion compared to conventional liquid primers.
Yes, you can still do multiple coats with primer. Powder guns are getting better and better, and combined with some application skill, it's perfectly feasible to do 5 or more coats. It's even possible to coat non-conductive items (like porcelin toilets) with the right techniques.
FULL-POWDER GRAPHICS
1) Airbrushed:
Full-powder graphics is something only a few coaters have figured out. Spectrum was a pioneer with it. The basic process is: 1) shoot the base coat and do a partial cure, 2) airbrush the graphics with a special pigment, 3) apply the clear powder top coat and final cure. During the final cure, the clear top coat will cross-link (basically melt) through the graphics pigment into the partially-cured base coat, making all three layers one.
That being said, there are some limitations to full-powder graphics. A notorious limitation is white graphics on a red base. During the final cure, the red pigment in the base coat will sublimate (vaporize) into the white, turning it pink. I haven't figured out a work-around, and I don't think Spectrum has, either. In a case like this, the top coat would need to be liquid. Here is a picture of white-on-red. You can see how it turned pink.
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The resolution of airbrushed graphics is just like wet paint; there is no blur. Here are some pics of clear powders over airbrushed graphics. Clears come in high-gloss, matte, and in-between.
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2) Decals:
Yes, there are hi-temp decals meant for use under powder. The only company I'm aware of that makes these are SSS, Inc. in North Carolina. I haven't dealt with them myself, but I know some frame builders get their decals from them and provide them to the coater (I believe Strong does this). SSS, Inc. has supposedly figured out how to avoid the sublimation problem with reds and blacks. Water slide decals still need to be liquid cleared.
Great questions...
POWDER PRIMERS
There are a few types of powder primers.
1) Zinc Primer:
The rust-prevention type is a zinc primer. It reduces steel oxidation because the zinc is more reactive than steel, so the zinc gets oxidized first. Same concept as galvanization. Zinc primers are primarily used on items that are kept in the elements and are subject to abuse, like fences and gates. For bicycles, it's not particularly helpful as long as the frame is prepped properly, which means the metal is "white blasted" immediately prior to coating (super-clean and free from all oxidation). Many coaters do not white blast their pieces.
2) Filler Primer:
Filler primers are more like liquid paint primers. The primary goal of these are to give the frame a nice smooth surface prior to the color coat. These are great for filling small scratches and rust pits. For heavy pitting, deep gouges, and dents, a special conductive, high-temp bondo-type body filler can be used.
3) Powder Primer Under Wet Paint:
Another use for either of those primers is as a base for wet paint. This can increase wet paint adhesion compared to conventional liquid primers.
Yes, you can still do multiple coats with primer. Powder guns are getting better and better, and combined with some application skill, it's perfectly feasible to do 5 or more coats. It's even possible to coat non-conductive items (like porcelin toilets) with the right techniques.
FULL-POWDER GRAPHICS
1) Airbrushed:
Full-powder graphics is something only a few coaters have figured out. Spectrum was a pioneer with it. The basic process is: 1) shoot the base coat and do a partial cure, 2) airbrush the graphics with a special pigment, 3) apply the clear powder top coat and final cure. During the final cure, the clear top coat will cross-link (basically melt) through the graphics pigment into the partially-cured base coat, making all three layers one.
That being said, there are some limitations to full-powder graphics. A notorious limitation is white graphics on a red base. During the final cure, the red pigment in the base coat will sublimate (vaporize) into the white, turning it pink. I haven't figured out a work-around, and I don't think Spectrum has, either. In a case like this, the top coat would need to be liquid. Here is a picture of white-on-red. You can see how it turned pink.
The resolution of airbrushed graphics is just like wet paint; there is no blur. Here are some pics of clear powders over airbrushed graphics. Clears come in high-gloss, matte, and in-between.
2) Decals:
Yes, there are hi-temp decals meant for use under powder. The only company I'm aware of that makes these are SSS, Inc. in North Carolina. I haven't dealt with them myself, but I know some frame builders get their decals from them and provide them to the coater (I believe Strong does this). SSS, Inc. has supposedly figured out how to avoid the sublimation problem with reds and blacks. Water slide decals still need to be liquid cleared.
5
Thanks for starting the thread LenMcC. Is it a good idea to powder coat a bike in wrinkle finish? Is dirt going to stick in the crevices, making it always dirty?
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