That color looks close to my Retrotec's powder coat. I used Moondust Lime over a black base to get that look. I love it, although yours looks even better.
Thanks! Good eye! This one is Starburst Lime. Same tone but a bigger flake size. Did Spectrum shoot your Retrotec?Sasquatch said:That color looks close to my Retrotec's powder coat. I used Moondust Lime over a black base to get that look. I love it, although yours looks even better.
Whilst good on the piano, he sucked on the organ....General Hickey said:Looks like something liberace would ride...!
Actually, my bike was coated by Maas Bros. in Livermore, CA but I know Spectrum does most NorCal frame builder's bikes, including alot of Retotecs. I like the big flakes on yours. They stand out more.LenMcC said:Thanks! Good eye! This one is Starburst Lime. Same tone but a bigger flake size. Did Spectrum shoot your Retrotec?
Yeah, I got the same impression. Questions here and there, sometimes gone unanswered.Shredr said:People post all kinds of questions about powdercoating/painting/polishing/ano all over the place.Too much hit & miss on what should become an established thread...
Can you PM Francois & ask him?
Someone with your level of knowledge & experience is needed.
Shredr said:Great posts & excellent info! A few questions:
Is this always the normal operating procedure for powdercoat? 1) Base first, 2) Then Powdercoat in oven, 3) Then spray Clearcoat? Most powders are done in one shot. The powder is applied, the frame goes into the oven, and the powder flows out into a smooth finish. Multi-coats may be required to get a certain look (e.g. that heavy green flake Trance... The green flake is suspended in a clear powder, so you see what's underneath, in that case black), to change the gloss, to protect graphics, or to protect metallics that use aluminum flake (to keep the aluminum from dulling).
Should I tell the painter what series alloy my frame is made out of before putting in the oven? The only bicycle frame alloy I'm aware of that's a concern is scandium. Steel, aluminum alloys other than scandium, and titanium all coat great. Care needs to be taken with magnesium, too. It won't burst into flames, but it becomes unstable at 300-350F or so, which means it can warp.
If the alloy frame is machine polished first, can you skip the base step or not? I always go for bright, shiny, flashy showroom-quality colors that really stand out & "glow". Polished isn't the best prep for powder (from an adhesion perspective... it looks trick as hell with a candy over it, though!). Powder sticks to it - still far better than wet paint - but not quite as well as a blasted piece. Blasting leaves the piece a little bit rough (called an anchor profile), which allows for maximum mechanical adhesion. The end surface finish of the powder has to do mainly with 1) the way it's applied (coating is too thin -> small orange peel; coating too thick -> heavy orange peel, 2) the way it's baked (some like to be heated fast, some like it slow), and 3) the powder itself (some just flow out nicer.) Good coaters also communicate with their powder suppliers and can get "special" hi-quality-grade grinds for a smoother finish.
Also, what if I want to do a type of 2 tone paint color fade job? (like red to black to red)?
Is it possible with powdercoat? Yes, fades are possible. Powder-on-powder fades aren't typically as fine as wet paint fades. Up close you can usually see the powder particles. I haven't really played with fades, but I'm sure they can be better than what I've seen.
Finally, If I bring a Chris King hub (sour apple color ano) & ask for an exact match with powdercoat is it possible or asking for too much? This is going to depend heavily on the coater. We do a lot of color matching. One of our suppliers has 6500+ colors (not including combinations), and if they don't have it they can also custom match (but it's expensive). We have over 1000 powder sample chips, and if I don't have a match, we'll usually send a customer's piece to the supplier to see what they have. We can usually get very very close.
Textures (wrinkles, veins, hammertones, leatherettes, rivers, casts) are great for economically hiding imperfections. So for frames that are heavily rust pitted, or naturally rough cast pieces like many valve covers, the textures are popular.rallyraid said:Is it a good idea to powder coat a bike in wrinkle finish? Is dirt going to stick in the crevices, making it always dirty?