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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got my new 2010 Flux built up and I love it. If someone can let me know how, I'd like to post some piccies.

I've stood on the scales with her and she is 27.5lbs. I think I can loose three quarters of a pound by going tubeless and I know my Revlelation is probably a bit heavy for an XC bike.

Build is as follows:

Full 9-spd SLX gearing (except for XT shifters/F-mech and sram chain)
SLX cranks
Stans 335 and Arch rims on Stans hubs + Supercomp (inner tubes at the moment)
Secialized Storm Control Tyres 2.0" (its muddy in the forest)
Rockshox Rev 120mm (not the expensive ones)
EC70 seatpost & SDG Bel Air Ti
Monkeylite Bar and Thomson 4X 90mm stem.
Hope headset and BB.
XTR pedals
Hope Minis (Vintage 2008)



Reccommendations for weight loss please.

Cheers Timmy
 

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For losing weight, those cranks you have are a little heavy. The SLX gearing adds a good amount over XTR as well. I'd highly recommend tubeless. Been doing it for a couple years with great success. I use UST wheels and a standard DTC Kenda Nevagal tire. Use DTC ones only and put in the Stans fluid. The tubeless tires are heavy and cannot take the fluid to prevent those small leaks from draining your air. The performance benefit will really be noticeble especially on the front.

I will also be building up a Flux in the next week. Looking forward to it!
 

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My cup runneth over
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Thanks for that.

Does an image already have to be online in oder to post it on here?
No limitations on upload 'from' locations. Anything your computer can see should be fine. I recently loaded an image straight to a thread from my phone.

You should be able to 'upload images' when you reply/add/create a post - it's down the page a little. There has recently been restrictions on what you can do based on your number of posts - that may be limiting you.
 

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Mines at 24.5 lbs.without any carbon
Hope hubs/ Stan's Alpines
Marzocchi Marathon SL Fork (2004)
Avid Elixir 3 Brakes
Crank Bros Colt 3 cockpit with Syntace Stem
X.9 Drivetrain set up 1x9 with Raceface Deus cranks
Specialized Sworks Renegade Tires

Love this bike
 

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How heavy is that your revelation fork? The new ones are quite a bit heavier than a Reba or Sid. You might get half or a full pound right there. Of course that is not a cheap upgrade though. I agree on tubeless, especially since you Stan's rims already. I would check your tire weight. You shave big weight there, and you will really notice it. The slx crank and cassette are by no means light, target them on your drivetrain refresh. I did the math one day on shaving 1400g off my bike. It cost close to $1400.
 

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Sorry to say this Tea, but just about every component that you have has a much lighter replacement that is still reliable for a reasonably light XC rider. Wheels and tires are usually the best place to start. I have a medium 08 Flux with a Nitrous rear triangle that is 24.8 pounds. My fork and shock are at Push Industries for service, or I would show you a picture. I think your frame is around a pound heavier for the same size. You can get your bike in the 25 pound range with nothing too exotic. Here is my build. I have included the weights of things that I have recently weighed. Hopefully this helps a few people.

2008 Fox F-120RLC 3lb 11oz cut
2008 Mavic SL Disc with Hub Doctor freehub bearing kit 1665g (I could save 100g plus here, but these wheels seal well and are very reliable with the bearing kit)
WTB Mutano Race 2.4 Tires (590-600g each without 2.5 ounces of Stan's) run ghetto tubeless.
XO twist shifters
XO rear derailleur
XT front derailleur
Truvativ OCT 3.3 crank 170mm (800g) I was tired or paying too much for rings on my XTR
PC 991 chain (284 g with 108 links)
Sram 990 (11-34) cassette 302 g
Easton Monkeylite SL Carbon riser bar
Thomson Stem 90mm
King Headset
Easton EC 90 Carbon Seatpost 27.2 (200g)
Fizik Aliante Gamma XM Saddle (255g with plastic edge protectors removed)
XTR pedals
ODI Attack Grips cut short for gripshift (60g) Very comfortable!
Avid SD7 levers 178g
Avid BB7 brakes with Cleansweep X 160 and 140 rotors (I could save 200g here) I may put on some Hope brakes this year.
Hope quick release sear collar and skewers
 

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Yep tons of places to lose weight. It's straight forward to get a flux into the 24lb range. But of course it will cost you. With new 10 speed 11-36 cassettes, more people can get by with 1x10 set ups, that can drop .75lb. Go tubeless for sure. Your wheelset may be overkill unless you are riding some pretty AM terrain. I'm running Stans Crest (on a 29er) with sapim cx-ray spokes on some pretty rough XC trails without problems (I'm 161lbs). Also check your grips, some lock-on grips can be really heavy and I just don't undertand the need. I run ESI Chunky Silicon grips and love them.
 

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Yep tons of places to lose weight. It's straight forward to get a flux into the 24lb range. But of course it will cost you. With new 10 speed 11-36 cassettes, more people can get by with 1x10 set ups, that can drop .75lb. Go tubeless for sure. Your wheelset may be overkill unless you are riding some pretty AM terrain. I'm running Stans Crest (on a 29er) with sapim cx-ray spokes on some pretty rough XC trails without problems (I'm 161lbs). Also check your grips, some lock-on grips can be really heavy and I just don't undertand the need. I run ESI Chunky Silicon grips and love them.
I run a 1x10 and love it. Removing two chain rings, shifter, cable and less links in the chain. Not a huge weight savings, but it counts. Front derailer weight vs chainguide is probably a wash. The improvement in riding simplicity is worth it.
 

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TUBELESS! You already have the tubeless rims and tires. What are you waiting for???

The SLX crank arms are actually lighter than the XT crank arms. Simply replace the heavy steel rings with some aftermarket alloy rings and bolts, or XT rings, and you can save close to half a pound.

Also, the SLX cassette is a tank. The XT cassette, or better yet, a lightly used XTR cassette would save you quite a bit and improve shifting at the same time. I would stick to Shimano cassettes. I'm sure I'll get flamed for saying it, but I get better shifting and longer life out of Shimano cassettes over SRAM stuff. I actually like SRAM shifters and cranks better but have had bad luck with SRAM cassettes.

Depending on your weight, you could swap out your existing Stans rims to Crests and save quite a bit on your rotating weight and also get a wider footprint for your tires. That would make a pretty noticeable difference. Your existing wheels aren't bad but less weight on your wheels, especially the rear, makes quite a noticeable difference.

A used Thomson Masterpiece is somewhat of a no brainer.

The SDG seat could also be replaced and shave at least a quarter pound but if your butt loves it, keep it;)

The new Ritchey C260 stem is the tits!!!

Your bars are probably pretty light already but I know the Easton EC90 and ENVE XC bars are lighter. Not cheap though:/

What grips do you have? You might be able to save 100gr by going to some foam grips.

As already pointed out, there's always a lighter part no matter the category but I'd focus on rotating weight if you want the bike to FEEL lighter. 100gr off your grips won't be nearly the difference in feel as 100gr of rotating mass on the outside of your wheels. If you're smart about it you can make the bike ride much lighter than it really is;) Start with tubeless then work your way to chainrings then cassette would be my first recommendations. Cockpit last...
 

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here is a pic of the DW Flux I had a few years ago. It was 22.94 pounds at its lightest.
the front wheel is a 650b. a few things that could save more weight would have been a 10 speed chain and lighter cables and housings, did not purse them at the time. roadie handlebar tape makes superlight grips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the very useful advice - you certainly given me something to work on (and spend money on LOL).

Firstly the image issue: if I click the 'insert image' button, I just get an address bar starting http:\\ - no good for photos on my PC.

First test ride on Isle of Wight yesterday.
 

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Additional Options

Click on the advance reply, scroll down past the "reply to thread" box to the "Additional Options". Click on box to upload images (you might need to downsize the image to post).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the very useful advice - you certainly given me something to work on (and spend money on LOL).

Firstly the image issue: if I click the 'insert image' button, I just get an address bar starting http:\\ - no good for photos on my PC.

First Test Ride (Yesterday, Isle of Wight, Southern England). ( 2010 Flux bought in the recent mega sale (Thank You Turner!)

The Ride:
I just had no idea how good the Flux was at descending!

It's W-A-Y better than the 2008 Superlight I owned until last March. It's almost as good as the Heckler I was riding for several months last year (I should make it clear I'm talking about descending here). I acknowledge that with more technical descents, the bigger travel bike will be superior, but I don't do that type of descent, so I reckon the Flux is more than enough bike for me. For the 3 months before the Flux, I was riding a 4-bar 120mm Nicolai Helius CC which I bought from a mate to try to improve on the Heckler. My strong impression yesterday was the Flux (with 120mm front end) descended smoother and faster than the 120mm Helius! I was convinced, the moment I hit my first descent (a steep, chalky, plunge with some loose sections and drainage ruts). In the past, I have let go a couple of times on the Heckler, but never felt confident enough to go balls-out on the Superlight or Helius. The Flux just ate it up with no worries - I could hardly believe it!

To start with, I was less conviced with the climbing, but I quickly worked out that the problem was the unfamiliar cockpit. I only had a layback post when I built the bike, so I was placed too far back for climbing. I was riding with my brother who kindly offered to swap seatposts. Immediately I had an in-line post, I was much more comfortable. After returning from the ride, I moved a 5mm spacer from under the stem, so I think that may improve things still further next time out. Reflecting once at home again, I felt that if anything, the Flux was almost too plush for the smoother climbs, so I'm going have a play with propedal settings 1 and 2 next time out. I had number 3 only yesterday as I was using it for road sections.

So Conclusion....I'm very Impressed with yesterday's effort and further cockpit tweeks (and a lot of component upgrading to come). My brother is green with envy as the Flux leaves his Titus for dead on the downhills.

PS. I did I mention that I'm 51 years old, eat very badly, and I'm a shade over 200lbs with my riding gear and camelbak? I started a diet last week in preparation for the Flux - it'll be worth it!

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Well, I took the new baby for a second ride on Tuesday night. The trails were semi frozen and I did quite a bit on singlerack and woods with the local MTB club. The result was that I'm now even more delighted. The flux just rides so easily and seems to float along and switch lines with ease. I was right about moving the spacer - with the stem 5mm lower, the bike feels just about right. I suppose I could even experiment with less travel in the fork.
I think the next move will be to follow your advice and try going tubeless. I did I mention that I've already concluded the Flux is the nicest bike I've owned to date. I was planning to hang on to my Nicolai frame for the next few months just to be absolutely certain. However on the strength of 2 rides, I reckon my mind is pretty well made up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I'm 5'10" the 17" Flux frame is the medium - it feels good to me. Had a large Heckler last year with an inline post but found I preferred fit of the medium Superlight frame with more seatpost..
 
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