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This is my 2014 Schwinn Rocket 2 27.5" Hardtail. "Wait a minute, did he say 2014 Schwinn? I thought Schwinn was only at Walmart now" Yes, I said Schwinn. Schwinn is getting back into the game of "real" mountain bikes with thier "Signature" line only available at dealers. They aren't doing super high end stuff yet, but they do offer what I believe to be some of the best bikes available between $500 and $1000. I paid $500.00 for mine because it was a 2014 clearance model, but it normally sold for $750.00. At $750.00 you won't find many bikes (if any) out there that have Double Butted frames with Tapered Headsets like this one does (and it has thier classic Epicenter seat stay design). The components are about what you would expect for $750.00, but with the frame design such as it is, it's completely upgradable. My budget doesn't allow for me to buy the $2500 top level bike, so I felt this was a great way to go. And it's damb good looking too:) I installed some good platform pedals (just can't get myself to go clipless) and a Lizard Skin chainstay protector. Will replace the grips with Lizard Skin Moab Grips very soon. Other upgrades in the future as needed. Who knows, maybe all the riders out on the trails will laugh at me when they see the Schwinn logo, but if they take a second look, they will see that it is actually a quality bike:thumbsup:
 

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Thanks. The black and white scheme was definately one of the turn-ons for me. Notice the white brake and shifter cables. Nice touch.
 

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All these new fangle Homegrowns...

How about some REALY vintage yum yum...
1981 King Sting 5


Chainring should be a 44t, and I need to find some NOS cables as new ones are just too neon yellow (rather, I need to cough up the dough for NOS cables) but otherwise 100% original except for the tires, grips, Strong alloy post, early King headet and era aftermarket clamp. Now he's rocking a rare WIN/Team Schwinn gold slant stem, but this is an older pic.

And a little more Beach/BMXy that true Klunkery, but who can say "No" to a '39 Excelsior DX in a Vintage Schwinn thread?





Oh, and for you kids with those 'new' Homegrowns, Charlie Sheen printed some bumper stickers on industrial quality Mylar (printed by the guys who do automotive body wraps) but they were slightly misspelled, and you know, they just might look ok on that 95-98 HG frame you repainted and can't find downtube stickers for, hint hint. He was high on Tiger Blood, so he couldn't spell WINNING! and put in some extra letters (use your imagination... it's a Schwinn thread) left some out, you know, he's a druggie, but someone's got them up on ePay ;)

 

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I've posted this in a couple of other forums, but since there is a Schwinn specific forum, I might as well represent the brand.

I've wanted a Homegrown for years and even though I love the bass boat colors, I wanted one with disc brake tabs, so I was relegated to a 2000, or 2001. I preferred the more modern tabs of the 2001.

A little over a year ago, I was fortunate to find a brand new, unbuilt '01 frame on Ebay. I was the high bidder and was giddy. Since receiving it, I have built it as follows:

Chris King-Stans Alpines with Hutchison Python Tubeless wheelset
Truvativ Stylo SS 32 crank set
Thomson post
Hayes Stroker Gram disc brakes
Rock Shox SID Carbon (now changed to a RS TK 30)
Easto Stem
Easton Carbon flat bar

I'm currently running a 32-17 combination as a single speed with a Soulcraft Convert tensioner. As built, it weighs in at under 20 lbs and I COULD put in on a diet to shave a half pound or more, but why? I love the way this bike rides, climbs and handles.
 

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Here's my schwinns... after my walmart schwinn aluminum comp was stolen i bought a bunch of bikes as a sort of hobby, and eventually i ended up with these among other craigslist wonders

schwinnS95.jpg
My dad's bike... 1995 schwinn s[9five].5 purchased as you see it for $50 from a guy who said he bought it to have a fun summer, but never had a fun summer and had to move. Cushy couch seat, quadra 21 fork, wtb racing raptors on ritchy rock 440 rims, and then the rest is the stock gear the bike was spec'd with.
The racing raptors are cool... but i put those on a cannondal m300 for my mom or sister to cruse around the city with. They break their grip pretty easy... which is sort of fun. Currently ridin' on maxxis minions... also (i got a deal!).

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My 1997 schwinn s-10- purchased for $65 with a super rusty chain that sucked up into the chainstays, not so crisp shifters, an oddly worn rear rim, walmart tire in the rear and a worn out jones xc in the front, and a blown judy xc with mysteriously dissolved elastomers.
Picture isn't up to date, but it's currently blinged out a little more with a manitou six deluxe fork, maxxis minions on bontrager mustang/maverick rims, and some origin-8 flat pedals.

The s95 was in like mint condition... such pretty red paint! The s-10? If you stand back it looks alright, but close up the finish shows its age.
 

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About how much does it weigh?
It Weghts in 15.38 lbs and the manufactor year is 2009.

The only original part on the bike is the frame itself.

I Luv this ride I preffer this over my Felt F4, the Schwinn isnt faster
but fast enough to challange the big brands and way more comfortable
 

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1996 Schwinn Moab 3.0, 26" (with a few mod-swaps for 29" wheels)

A few facts about the bike (non-exhaustive list):

The Schwinn Moab 3.0 was a base model of the Moab line, 21-speed.

The bike I have here was released in 1995 as a an "Anniversary Edition,"
but is otherwise identical to the 1996 model Moab 3.0,
from the catalog archives I've seen.

* The frame is steel.
This particular frame example is 21" center/BB to top of seat-tube.

* The stock silver alloy wheels are Araya, 19mm internal rim width.

* The seat-stays are labeled as "Epi*Center" and have a wishbone shape, which gives a bit more clearance, i.e. "compliance," for the rear wheel.

This particular frame config is what allowed (and inspired) me to do a few mod-swaps to the bike, so that it can run not only the stock/26" wheels, but also wheelsets up to 700x40 (also 650b x 'wider' ).

* Chainstay is 'asymmetrical' on the drive side; I forget what they called it or why they did it. I think it has something to do with 'offsetting' or lessening any chainslap. The only other protection it had on the driveside stay was a clear laminate/film decal,
layered on top of the stay's bar/surface.


* The stock fork was an RST 171-b suspension fork,
which I believe used a combination of spring and polymer inserts.
I've been unable to locate info on refurbing them, upgrading them,
or even 'rigidifying' them (as with internal steel tubes and bushings).
More on that later possibly, after I've done a bit of research.

* The stock stem and headset were threaded,
but standard 1 1/8 steerer tube.

* The drivetrain consisted of:
Shimano Acera-X rear derailleur and front derailleur (brand?)
Suntour PowerFlo crankset, 5-bolt/star pattern, 175mm cranks
SRAM GripShift shifters, 3x7

* The brake system was a Shimano cantilever center-pull type.


-------------------


Conversion, Swap-Mods To The Bike:

I did 'swap-mods' in 2 main areas of the bike: brakes and steering

1. The stock/canti- brake system was swapped out,
for a new extra long V brake system,
with 125mm arms and 44mm of pad adjust.
The long V-brakes I used are on 'eBA' from Taiwan sellers.
I paid 36.50 USD for a set (both wheels), price included shipping.
Available in red anodized or black.
Another seller has two more anodized colors, blue and yellow,
for slightly more at 45 USD per set.
Do a keyword search for "extra long v brake" to find them.

(Note: Contrast the price of these uncommon 'specialty' V-brakes,
with a BMX set by Paul Components, called 'Motolite' :
they're CNC'd in the USA, and are @ $110 per brake/wheel,
or $220 USD a set !!! I don't even know if they're long enough,
but I couldn't afford to find out.)

With the extra-long v-brakes,
I also installed Avid FR-5 levers ($14/set), and Jagwire cables-2 ($5/set).



2. The stock threaded SF fork was swapped for a rigid threadless fork.
I went with a Kona Project Two 26" fork,
with rim-brake bosses ($80).
The fork's axle-to-crown is 410mm, nearly identical
to the stock RST suspension fork (@405mm I think).
Because the fork's steerer tube is threadless,
other threadless components were also required: headset and stem.
I opted for an FSA DH Pro No.15 headset with sealed bearings ($30),
a Profile Designs Stem 120mm, 25deg ($30), and
a generic alloy 31.x handlebar I had onhand (parts-bin)

Total cost of the swap-mods (brakes and steering) was under 200 USD.

I've kept all the removed stock parts
in case I'd ever want to restore the bike to 'most-all' stock.

The current wheels on the bike are Sun Rhyno Lite (622-27),
with CST E-Series Reach tires, 700c x 40 (622-42)

The frame & fork have 3M Diamond grade tape on them,
for safer, hi-vis commuting.
Good idea to add it to the forks, and rear stays at the very least,
and maybe also to the seat area and stem/bar area.
It works very well --- lights up bright when light hits it.

Here's pics:
 

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my 2 schwinns...... an 86 sierra and a 72 varsity.....got both for free and got them going again on the cheap the sierra was mostly cleaning and new grips, pedals and handlebars to replace the rusty ones... the varsity didnt need much either.....biggest thing was tires and tubes.... both are great riders.... dont really do any hardcore off road with the sierra, but it is still a fun ride.... better than no bikes at all.....I also have a 97 specialized rockhopper for a commuter
 

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Bought my Series 90 PDG while stationed in Germany around 1993. LOVE this bike but it's now time to down size so if any one is interested see my post in classified.
 

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Latest pickup/hodgepodge 'throw it together with whatever is on hand' build.

1981 King Sting- canti mounts and TT cable guides added WAAAAY back in the day and pure parts-bin-randomness on the craptastic fork and front brake courtesy of one of ChattyMatty's world famous threadless conversion headsets.

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