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· ceteris paribus
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a polar IrDA USB port for my PC the other day (Athlon XP2400, 256 MB SDRAM, USB 2.0 ports, Windows XP[all service packs]), but it didn't include any software at all for installation!(though it was requiered)! What a piece of... costumer service, and of course windows couldn't detect it, and the booklet said I had to Dload the drivers (the problem is, I don't have Inet at home[since about two weeks ago when it stopped working], so I have to come to my office to get the drivers), I find the drivers at their website[after looking for them for about 20 minutes, since they're nowhere to be found in the Dload section...]. So, finally I install the drivers, but, after I install them it doesn't work (the orange light blinks when I point my polar at it and hit file transfer, but it doesn't do anything; and when I hit the connect on the polar software, it just stays there forever without doing anything...). Now to uninstall and install again, I need another program from their site. I'll dload it and try it, but what if it still doesn't work... any body have any clues about what else could be causing the malfunction?
 

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The driver for the USB interface is on the CD that came with it in the USB- W2000 folder.

Or if you go to C:\Program Files\Polar\Polar Precision Performance\USB\W2000 you can find it on your computer also once the software is installed.

The easiest way to install it is for the add new hardware wizard to appear when you plug in the USB interface and then browse to the folder with the PolarUSB.inf file in.

You need to check that the Interface is installed properly in Windows Device manager and also make sure it's selected as the default in the Polar Software (Options- preferences- Hardware) where it should just say USB.

If it's not installed properly in Windows Device Manager (Control Panel- System- Hardware- Device Manager where it should appear as a seperate icon called Polar USB Device with a Grey Diamond next to it) Run the add Hardware wizard and install it again from the C: drive.

The HRM needs to be set to connect mode and you want it touching the USB Interface on a flat surface for the best possible signal. Make sure it's not in bright sunlight either as that will affect the optical connection.

After that it should simply be a case of pressing connect in the Polar software.

Good luck.:)
 

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Similar problem, now solved!

If using windows XP, Polar recommends that you use the interface that is designed for that program. They will exchange the one you have for an XP specific one. After loading software and update (on www.polar.fi.com) you push the bottom right button til is says connect then touch the top of the watch to the interface and then let the band lay over the top of the interface to block any light source coming from the room. Then push the start buttom to transfer data.

Sounds crazy but it's the only way it works for mine!
 

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Slightly OT but if you've just started using a Polar S720i here's the tips I wish someone had told me.

- Always start the recording from the same place each time because otherwise the graphs won't line up properly when you compare them.

-Make sure you put plenty of splits (pressing the red button) in whilst you're riding and try and do them at the same points on regular routes. It makes it much easier to analyse the data and gives you an idea where you are on the ride when you look at the graph. I normally do a split at the top and bottom of each major climb and every 10-20miles otherwise.

You can insert the splits afterwards if you need to but I find it better doing it whilst riding.

You can then copy the lap times into Excel for a clear idea of where you're gaining and losing time. For example I was finding that gaining 30 secs up the climbs by going hard would cost several minutes on the flat roads afterwards as I was too far into the red.

The speed trace isn't as good as a proper data logger but you can use it to analyse your descending and cornering. If you touch the brakes it shows by a sharp drop in the speed line and the bottom of a trough on the descent is the apex corner speed. I spend more time obsessing over that than the HR zones nowadays! :) You can lose a surprising amount of time on the downhill sections if you're not careful.

Hope that helps.:)
 

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Not to hijack your thread, xctico, but can any infrared device be used or does it have to be the polar one?
Reason I ask is because my pc came with an ir port but I can't get it to connect to my 725, I just get "no response from hr monitor".
I'll send polar an e-mail later in the week, just wondering for now.

BTW, nice tips WR.

Thanks.
Lou.
 

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upstateSC-rider said:
Not to hijack your thread, xctico, but can any infrared device be used or does it have to be the polar one?
Reason I ask is because my pc came with an ir port but I can't get it to connect to my 725, I just get "no response from hr monitor".
I'll send polar an e-mail later in the week, just wondering for now.

BTW, nice tips WR.

Thanks.
Lou.
Polar says if it is an internal IR installed in your PC it will work. Otherwise you have to use a polar IR device. I have the polar IR version that specificly is for windows xp.
 

· ceteris paribus
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Don't use the connect option on the main menu but the one you get once you add a new excercise on your diary. The one on the main screen does nothing, in the other one I can send the files without problem.
 

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If the monitor connects to the computer but then isn't able to transfer the exercise file without several retries it means the battery in the watch is going flat: It can't produce enough power to keep a constant connection.

It's easy to change the battery though. Just undo the 4 four small phillips head screws in the back, pop out the CR2354 3v battery and fit a new one.

The clock resets but all the files, zones and records will still be there so long as you change the battery quickly.:)
 

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In my case I believe my infrared port isn't compatible with the hrm. I have to get a polar i/f so I can get all these files off before it fills up. :)
The funny thing is that the Polar unit is worth more than the road bike I'm using it on (an old cro-mo rigid Trek 21-spd mtb with slicks). :D

Lou.
 
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