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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The more I read about hubs and rims, the more I can't decide, so I'm going to the forum for the final decision.

bike:
rear: 150mm x 12mm (Maxle)
front: 15mm QR

Arizona terrain:
rocky - need something fairly durable
steep - need to save some peripheral weight to climb

rider:
200lbs, mash more than spin, generally easy on rims (smooth, 2-3ft jumps. no hucking)

trouble spots:
- don't like too much noise (Hope Pro II on my SS really annoys me)
- considering running a 36T Shimano cassette with all of it's freewheel-gouging tendency (can't go smaller than 22T up front due to Hammerschmidt, so need ratio help out back), but can live with 34T XT if need to for the right hub
- really like the quick engagement of the Pro IIs compared to the OEM American Classics on my Canzo
- intend to run tubeless

thanks for your thoughts!!
 

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Hadley or DT Swiss 440 Freeride hubs, DTSwiss Comps, brass nipples, and Stan's Flows. Make sure you run a cassette with a spider for the 1st 6 gears, like a Shimano XT or SRAM990 cassette if you are using an aluminum or titanium carrier on your freehub.
 

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RandyBoy said:
Hadley or DT Swiss 440 Freeride hubs, DTSwiss Comps, brass nipples, and Stan's Flows. Make sure you run a cassette with a spider for the 1st 6 gears, like a Shimano XT or SRAM990 cassette if you are using an aluminum or titanium carrier on your freehub.
Sounts great, but maybe the King ISO 150 hub with stainless drive shell, if you want to run the 36 cog. Bring money.
 

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"55 lbs and climbing!"
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I would have loved to try the new Velocity P-35's on my WFO. They weren't available at the time I set it up with the Syncros DS28's. Now I need to wait til I trash them.

Try those out and let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Based on the pictures of these three hubs, looks like King is the widest between flanges, the 440 is the narrowest and Hadley somewhere in between? Judging from the apparent distance from the rotor mounting surface...

Would it be best to have the widest possible distance between flanges? Or is it too much strain on the spokes?

The Hadley flanges look (but is that just an illusion) the tallest, so that is obviously better for decreased spoke length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
BMJ said:
I would have loved to try the new Velocity P-35's on my WFO. They weren't available at the time I set it up with the Syncros DS28's. Now I need to wait til I trash them.

Try those out and let me know.
I'll definitely give that a strong thought. The only other rim I was considering were Flows, but those Velocity's look interesting. If these 150mm hubs "boutique-ish" weren't so darn expensive, I'd probably build up both sets with a cheap Shimano XT hub and do a comparo.
 

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"55 lbs and climbing!"
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I went with the King 150. It appeared to have the widest spread on the flanges. I would think they could spread them even further than they do on the 150's. It seems as though the biggest change is the axle length itself. I was surprised when I built up my rear to find that I was still using different left and right spoke lengths. I would have thought they'd been the same for ultimate strength.
 

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V02 deficient said:
Based on the pictures of these three hubs, looks like King is the widest between flanges, the 440 is the narrowest and Hadley somewhere in between? Judging from the apparent distance from the rotor mounting surface...

Would it be best to have the widest possible distance between flanges? Or is it too much strain on the spokes?

The Hadley flanges look (but is that just an illusion) the tallest, so that is obviously better for decreased spoke length.
Your theory is correct on paper, but it's really just splitting hairs at this point. All of these 150's give a wider base of support than any 135, and are far closer to dishless, so you have darn close to balanced rear wheel spoke tension. You/me/we can debate the merits of each endlessly, but the differences are teeny here.

Given what you've written above, I think the ideal set for you is:
DT 440, 36h, 110 x 15f, 150 x 12r. Easy to get a steel FH body for the 440.
Flows in 36h, three laps of yellow tape, stans valves.
2.0/1.8 Comps out back, blend of 2.0 Comps and A3's up front.
Prolock alloy nips.

Best of luck,

MC
 

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mikesee said:
Your theory is correct on paper, but it's really just splitting hairs at this point. All of these 150's give a wider base of support than any 135, and are far closer to dishless, so you have darn close to balanced rear wheel spoke tension. You/me/we can debate the merits of each endlessly, but the differences are teeny here.

Given what you've written above, I think the ideal set for you is:
DT 440, 36h, 110 x 15f, 150 x 12r. Easy to get a steel FH body for the 440.
Flows in 36h, three laps of yellow tape, stans valves.
2.0/1.8 Comps out back, blend of 2.0 Comps and A3's up front.
Prolock alloy nips.

Best of luck,

MC
Mike- I like your suggestions, but couldn't he play well with 32h? Didn't sound like he was hucking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
metelhead said:
Mike- I like your suggestions, but couldn't he play well with 32h? Didn't sound like he was hucking.
MC, I was wondering the same thing...
Looking at the obvious pros and cons, more spokes -> more weight, but more strength. Are there other differences between 32 and 36h that I should be aware of (alignment, cross pattern, etc.)?
Also, I like what I've been reading about the 440, but I still wonder (based on the pictures) if they just took a 135mm flange design and added some material to fill in the extra 15mm behind the rotor mount. I'm sure you've actually had a number of these in your hands, what's the story on this visual? Is it an illusion? Don't know why I'm fixated on using the whole hub for flange-to-flange distance, but I guess I'm thinking why go 150 if it's all not going to be used...
 

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36 lets you have a 4 cross pattern, better.

CK is awesome, but I am worried about its waterproofability
 
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