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PVery nice. Nothing surprising. Great bike.
Agree with most of the findings.

There is just one thing I would like to point out.
The question of Seat Tube angle.
While it is possible and in most cases it is the norm for steeper ST bikes to climb better, we cannot make this conclusion with every bike.
Let's say 2 bikes have different STA, but the seat, BB and handlebars are at the same place and everything else with the geometry is identical, the bikes will handle the same.
I know one can argue the position in the sadle changes differently in different saddle hights (moving slacker angle ST saddle further back in higher position) but this is not what I am talking about.
I am assuming the seat is in ideal height on these 2 hypothetical bikes and is at the same place with correlation to the BB and handlebars.
So the STA really does not matter here, it needs to be looked at with the whole geometry in mind.

As long as you can get an ideal seat position on a bike, STA is irrelevant.
 

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I finally finished my review on this project bike.

Thanks for all the discussion in this forum for the 'good knowledge'. I tried to balance it out with Pros and Cons. But the Cons are pretty minor.

Comments pls.

fc
I've been riding mine for two weeks now at all the normal Santa Cruz spots; UC, Demo, Wilder, Nisene, etc. Aside from the cable rub, seat tube angle, etc. discussions that we've all read about, am I the only M6 owner that feels the bike is a bit harsh on high speed washboard stuff? High speed, rocky, rutty, & or rooty sections...I mean really high speed fire road chattery stuff. I find myself wanting to brake in sections that my Nomad floats across. My shock pressure is a bit higher (less sag than recommended) because I like drops and getting some air but I'm finding the O-ring off the end of the shock after most rides, so I can't soften the ride by lowering the shock pressure. I've got a 160 Pike up front that's also using most of it's travel at the end of technical rides. I haven't had time to experiment with rebound settings, but I'm concerned that this "dream bike" might not be all that for me. I built this up thinking about doing some races, but wondering if my Nomad will perform better.

Anybody else feel this? Suggestions?
 

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I have the FloatX set up a bit under-sagged as well. I found that I was bottoming it out on drops over 3' when set to suggested (red line on the indicator) sag. With that said I don't really find the small bump performance to be poor, or at least not a lot different to the Bronson I had before this. Is you rebound set very slow? Could the shock be packing up on fast bumpy sections? I do find that I need to change my rebound settings for optimal trail/race performance vs. gap jumps and park-type drops. Faster for the former, slower for the latter. But this is true for pretty much every bike I've ever ridden. But I've been loving the FloatX/DW combo on this bike.
 

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Are there separate rebound settings on the shock? Fast and slow or just one for all? Curious what people's settings are, shock and fork. Especially for stock shock and Pike.
 

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am I the only M6 owner that feels the bike is a bit harsh on high speed washboard stuff? High speed, rocky, rutty, & or rooty sections...I mean really high speed fire road chattery stuff. I find myself wanting to brake in sections that my Nomad floats across.
I can't answer yet - my M6 isn't rolling, but I will say a well setup Nomad would be hard to beat going down for a plush ride. I'm not expecting the M6 to be better going down, but I do hope it's better on the flats and climbing.

I fully expect I'll be sending my Float X to Avalanche Racing for a custom rebuild at the end of the summer. The Avy DHX Air 5.0 on my Nomad revolutionized the ride. :thumbsup:
 

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I haven't messed with rebound yet (which is all the adjustment the shock has) but it does feel a little slow. Another thing I just checked is the gauge on my new Bontrager floor pump is off about 5 or 6 PSI, so tires are too hard. Dropping them to 28 PSI & speeding up rebound before hitting Demo forest tomorrow. I tried every 650b bike at Outerbike, and the Mach 6 was my favorite, but that was more slow and techy or fast and smooth, I didn't ride much high speed washboard fire road stuff around Moab (except on my Nomad.)
 

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Francois,

Great job on the reviews. I feel out of touch with my sport of passion since I've been working my azz off overseas for the last three years with little ride time. I've only been on my old mountain bike a hand full of times so these articles and reviews help. Anyway, I will be rewarding myself with a new ride upon my return and the Bronson and Mach6 are a top the heap. I'm a old Titus guy so you know which way I lean.

Still a bit confused and don't really understand the difference between overall and most versatile in the shoot-out. Can you please provide some more clarity? Don't have to rehash the reviews, but what criteria makes those categories different.

Regards,

EndUser
 

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I've been riding mine for two weeks now at all the normal Santa Cruz spots; UC, Demo, Wilder, Nisene, etc. Aside from the cable rub, seat tube angle, etc. discussions that we've all read about, am I the only M6 owner that feels the bike is a bit harsh on high speed washboard stuff? High speed, rocky, rutty, & or rooty sections...I mean really high speed fire road chattery stuff. I find myself wanting to brake in sections that my Nomad floats across. My shock pressure is a bit higher (less sag than recommended) because I like drops and getting some air but I'm finding the O-ring off the end of the shock after most rides, so I can't soften the ride by lowering the shock pressure. I've got a 160 Pike up front that's also using most of it's travel at the end of technical rides. I haven't had time to experiment with rebound settings, but I'm concerned that this "dream bike" might not be all that for me. I built this up thinking about doing some races, but wondering if my Nomad will perform better.

Anybody else feel this? Suggestions?
Are you absolutely sure the shock is bottoming and it is not the cables pushing the O ring off? I am running more sag than recommended and have yet to feel it bottom out even on the drops in Sedona. My O ring is off a lot of times too and it took me a while to figure out it wasn't the bike bottoming. It is not consistent that the cables push it off either. I also run very little rebound in the rear at 4-5 clicks out from wide open. DW does not need a lot of mechanical help from the rear shock.

I would recommend you increase the sag and then see if you can feel it bottom ignoring the O ring. I am running about 2 mm extra on the shock shaft or around 30%. Tires will make a bigger difference than all this on high speed chop though. My guess is that after these changes you will see a big improvement.
 

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Well I rode this afternoon after reading up on Pivots shock setup instructions, which stated for Firebird & Mach 6 to go to fully open and turn 4 clicks back on rebound. So much better than Wednesday's night ride. Didn't ride same trails so I can't compare apples & all, but I'm at least feeling the stoke that inspired me to get this frame again.
Not sure if I'm bottoming out, I haven't felt it. And I haven't seem that the cables have any effect on O-ring position on shock body. I'll play with it a bit on Sundays ride and see how she feels. I was hitting everything today that I normally hit on my Nomad, so that was cool!
 
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