[afa]

Hi all! Hope this is a good section for this problem. So I have a specialized enduro 2006 bike that has some need to be replace bearings. One of them is the double back to back on the shifter side, itbis griped, doesn t move.
I have 3 questions (sorry?)
How can I get the old bearings out, they look stuck.
Could I still use the bike till my new bearings arrive? It is big danger to damage the bike?
Do these bearings look good for my bike? I don t know this blue brand:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Specialize...o-2018-MTB-Frame-Bearing-/291033912103?_ul=ES

Thank you so much!

 

[fredcook]

Not stuck, but press fitted maybe.

 

[Jayem]

No idea, I had a 2014 enduro though that had horst-link bearings that were all but impossible to remove. There were two on each side and no "lip" to punch them out with, but the frame material was in between them, so it was flush, but if you tried pounding them both at once, they wouldn't go because the frame was in between them. Horrible design, one of those "cheap" manufacturing decisions where the bike/part is just intended to be disposable and crap out after a few seasons. That was my first and last specialized bike in a long time for that reason. Post some detailed pictures of what you are talking about and we can hopefully help. Most bearings have the specs on the bearing itself.

 

[afa]

No idea, I had a 2014 enduro though that had horst-link bearings that were all but impossible to remove. There were two on each side and no "lip" to punch them out with, but the frame material was in between them, so it was flush, but if you tried pounding them both at once, they wouldn't go because the frame was in between them. Horrible design, one of those "cheap" manufacturing decisions where the bike/part is just intended to be disposable and crap out after a few seasons. That was my first and last specialized bike in a long time for that reason. Post some detailed pictures of what you are talking about and we can hopefully help. Most bearings have the specs on the bearing itself.

Thank you very much for the answer. On the bearing is "6902 - 2RS NBK"

This is the caseing in between what looks like 2 beaings has a metal imb but it is imposibe to fit in any tool.

 

[kpdemello]

No idea, I had a 2014 enduro though that had horst-link bearings that were all but impossible to remove. There were two on each side and no "lip" to punch them out with, but the frame material was in between them, so it was flush, but if you tried pounding them both at once, they wouldn't go because the frame was in between them. Horrible design, one of those "cheap" manufacturing decisions where the bike/part is just intended to be disposable and crap out after a few seasons. That was my first and last specialized bike in a long time for that reason. Post some detailed pictures of what you are talking about and we can hopefully help. Most bearings have the specs on the bearing itself.

I had no trouble getting mine out with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Bearing-Puller-Remover-Extractor/dp/B0752W1VP2/

 

[*OneSpeed*]

Not sure if this is the right bike, but these guys do complete bearing kits. https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/suspension-pivot-bearing-kits/SBKSPE3.html

 

[afa]

Thank you "OneSpeed" that s the bike! (I have diffrent fork tho, mine is mazzorchi)
The other question is still on: how can I get the double back to back bearings out? It can be done without a puller?

 

[*OneSpeed*]

Yeah, buy a bearing puller or pay a shop to do it.

 

[SlowJoeCrow]

Thank you "OneSpeed" that s the bike! (I have diffrent fork tho, mine is mazzorchi)
The other question is still on: how can I get the double back to back bearings out? It can be done without a puller?

You will need a blind hole bearing puller to get the back to back bearings out, this has a piece that grabs the bearing from behind so you can pop it out. Some auto parts stores rent or loan these. Also consider a bearing driver set to install the replacements. You have be careful where you apply force when installing so you don't trash the new bearings. If the bearing presses into the frame or link, only pres on the outer race during installation, if the bearing is pressed onto an axle or stud, only press n the inner race. Also heat is your friend, if you are pressing a bearing into the frame chill the bearing and warm the frame to open up the tolerances.

 

[gravityryder26]

I got mine out with a punch. I got them back in with a socket