[SSINGA]

Anyone out in Turnerville have any tips or tricks to changing the spring in a Pike Race? I'm building up a psuedo-RFX (Azonic Saber) for a friend tonight and need to put in the X-firm spring. What have I got myself into??

 

[DoubleDown]

Anyone out in Turnerville have any tips or tricks to changing the spring in a Pike Race? I'm building up a psuedo-RFX (Azonic Saber) for a friend tonight and need to put in the X-firm spring. What have I got myself into??

It's very easy.

1) Take the knob off with a 2.5mm allen. Collect the 3 springs/ball bearings with a magnet.

2) Loosen the top cap with a 24mm socket. Only thread out 1/2 way.

3) Loosen the bottom bolt wiith a 5mm allen. Tap the bolt with a mallet to loosen the end of the shaft from the lower.

4) Take the bottom bolt out and then un-thread the top cap from the crown. Capture the 20-30 cc's of oil that drain out of the lower.

5) Grease the new spring before you put it in.

6) Reverse the steps to re-install. I find it easier to thread the top cap in 1/2 way, then tightnen the bottom bolt. I then loosen the top cap again, push the spring up and pour the oil in from the top.

 

[tscheezy]

The springs in the Pike come permanently mounted to the U-Turn rod. You replace the whole kit-n-kabootle. It is silly easy. Download the PDF manual from the Sram website. The pics are very good. It just a matter of removing the U-Turn knob, unscrewing the top cap and lower nut, lifting the old one out, and reversing the process for the new one. Just be careful with the little springs and balls under the U-Turn knob which create the detent clicks. They are tiny.

Edit: Ooops, DD beat me to it.

 

[SSINGA]

Thanks guys! I have the service manual, just wanted to be sure there weren't any little unpublished tricks.

 

[tscheezy]

The real question is why a whole new rod/spring assembly from RS costs $30, and about $150 from Zoke?

 

[SSINGA]

The real question is why a whole new rod/spring assembly from RS costs $30, and about $150 from Zoke?

Take that one step further out and wonder why the Pike is approx $400-450 and AM1 is $700+

 

[tscheezy]

Better yet, a Pike Team U-Turn coil for $365 shipped with both medium and firm springs!

 

[SSINGA]

Nice transition to the SPAM TS. The fork looks really nice & beefy with lots more tire room than the Zocchi. I hope it works better for my friend than it did for you.

Edit - I put the Race version on the scale - 5lbs even w/o the axle.

 

[tscheezy]

I especially like the number of page views the ad has received. (It is the kidney ad, recycled .)

 

[DLine]

Just be careful with the little springs and balls under the U-Turn knob which create the detent clicks.

I used to use a magnet to remove the balls and springs on my Psylo - the alternative is spending an hour on your garage floor with a magnifying glass.

 

[MicroHuck]

I used to use a magnet to remove the balls and springs on my Psylo - the alternative is spending an hour on your garage floor with a magnifying glass.

Jeez guys it aint rocket science!

Take the fork off the bike.

While holding it straight up take off the Uturn knob.

Cup your hand over the balls and spings, flip fork over, they all fall in nicely. Otherwise put a towel down under you so they stick rather than bounce away.

I've removed mine like 5 times and not once lost a ball or spring.

Another trick. Don't pull the spring out with the fork vertical. Secure the fork horizontal with the ground in a vice or bike stand. THEN remove the Uturn spring. I guarantee you won't lose any oil if the fork is flat. You don't need to change it on a new fork. Likewise, when you do change it, just point it down to drain and then put it back to level to refill it. It won't be messy that way. The lower chamber is large enough for the 15cc that it won't spill out the lower mounting hole when filled.

It's really so easy, that even our president could figure it out!

BTW, make sure to LUBE that sucker up really good with silicone engine belt grease from an autoparts store.

Anyone had to pull the damper rod out from the lowers yet? Mine seems to be stuck and there's not really any solid piece inside the shaft to pound on like the Uturn side. Any suggestions? I used a hammer and nail to get the uturn out because it's solid steel bar. The damper side has a delicate rebound shaft inside it so the hammer and nail wont work. It's in there pretty damn good too.

 

[DLine]

I forgot to mention that I'm a dolphin and lack opposable thumbs. So, while not rocket science to you, it's freaking brilliant for an underwater mammalian species to perform the simplest of bike maintenance tasks (and post about it on MTBR for that matter). I just thought my tip might help out some other non-human non-professional bike mechanic - I suppose a preface for that kind of simple information was is order. Sorry.

 

[DoubleDown]

Anyone had to pull the damper rod out from the lowers yet? Mine seems to be stuck and there's not really any solid piece inside the shaft to pound on like the Uturn side. Any suggestions? I used a hammer and nail to get the uturn out because it's solid steel bar. The damper side has a delicate rebound shaft inside it so the hammer and nail wont work. It's in there pretty damn good too.

Why would you use a nail? I have never heard of such a crazy thing.

All you do is back the bolt out and tap on the bolt with a mallet. This works for either side, damper or U-turn.

That's the way RS does it, so I am sure it works fine for everyone else.

 

[tscheezy]

Take the fork off the bike.

There was no reason to take the fork off the bike, so the magnet thing works well if you drop the ball into the wrong hole (there's lots more holes than springs and balls for some reason) and don't want to flip the whole bike upside down. You can use a small allen wrench touching the magnet for extra reach down into the hole.

To loosen the rods without busting anything, loosen the foot bolt a few turns and tap on that.

Edit: damn you DD, always beating me by 30 seconds... . BTW- getting the detent springs out may not be rocket science, but apparently loosening the rods is!

 

[DoubleDown]

Just doing my part!

 

[AL29er]

Selective reading.
Did he just say what I though he did...

Jeez guys it aint rocket science!

Take off the bike.

While holding it straight up
Cup your hand over the balls
they all fall in nicely.
Otherwise put a towel down under you so they stick rather than bounce away.

I've removed mine like 5 times and not once lost a ball

Another trick. Secure in a vice or bike stand. THEN I guarantee you won't lose any
You don't need to change it
Likewise, when you do change it, just point it down to drain and then put it back
It won't be messy that way.
The lower chamber is large enough that it won't spill out the lower mounting hole when filled. hate it when it spills out the lower mounting hole

It's really so easy, that even our president could figure it out!

BTW, make sure to LUBE that sucker up really good with silicone engine belt grease from an autoparts store.

Anyone had to pull the rod out from the lowers yet?
Mine's not really any solid piece inside the shaft to pound on
Any suggestions?
I used a hammer and nail because it's solid steel.
It's pretty damn good too.

Sorry, couldn't resist

 

[MicroHuck]

Selective reading.
Did he just say what I though he did...

Sorry, couldn't resist

HAHAHAHA that's freaking funny. I didn't even have any clue.

Missed one bit, make sure to wash your balls after changing the fluid! They can get pretty sticky sometimes.

I still recommend using a vice, it hurts SO good!

Edit: HAAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAH, ohhhh man, ROFL!