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wheeeee!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got my 2005 pike race in the mail yesterday, and I've got a few questions:

1. spring replacement - I know how to dissassemble the top cap, pull the ball bearings, springs, unscrew the spring cap, but does the u-turn spring assembly just pull out, or do I have to unscrew the bottom nut as well?

2. the online retailer I purchased the fork from didn't list the fork as having the pop-lock remote. I wasn't wild about the idea of another lever cluttering up my bars. For those that have the remote - what's your take on durability, usefullness? also, anyone know the cost for the spare parts to transform it back to non-remote?

fork looks great, and I'll probably try the remote for a while, just wanna know my options.
 

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butocabra said:
Got my 2005 pike race in the mail yesterday, and I've got a few questions:

1. spring replacement - I know how to dissassemble the top cap, pull the ball bearings, springs, unscrew the spring cap, but does the u-turn spring assembly just pull out, or do I have to unscrew the bottom nut as well?

2. the online retailer I purchased the fork from didn't list the fork as having the pop-lock remote. I wasn't wild about the idea of another lever cluttering up my bars. For those that have the remote - what's your take on durability, usefullness? also, anyone know the cost for the spare parts to transform it back to non-remote?

fork looks great, and I'll probably try the remote for a while, just wanna know my options.
You can go to the rockshox web site and download complete service manuals with pictures showing how to tear apart the entire fork.

A new motion control unit that doesn't have poploack costs $40 from rockshox.
 

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wheeeee!!!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks, I did read their tech manuals, and the first step is to pull the foot nuts, tap them, and then pull the lowers. it wasn't clear (at least to me) whether this step was necessary to do a spring change, or for a full rebuild. As the fork is brand new I'd like to avoid pulling the lowers unless I have to.

Robot Chicken said:
You can go to the rockshox web site and download complete service manuals with pictures showing how to tear apart the entire fork.

A new motion control unit that doesn't have poploack costs $40 from rockshox.
 

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Amphibious Technologies
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3,472 Posts
butocabra said:
Got my 2005 pike race in the mail yesterday, and I've got a few questions:

1. spring replacement - I know how to dissassemble the top cap, pull the ball bearings, springs, unscrew the spring cap, but does the u-turn spring assembly just pull out, or do I have to unscrew the bottom nut as well?

2. the online retailer I purchased the fork from didn't list the fork as having the pop-lock remote. I wasn't wild about the idea of another lever cluttering up my bars. For those that have the remote - what's your take on durability, usefullness? also, anyone know the cost for the spare parts to transform it back to non-remote?

fork looks great, and I'll probably try the remote for a while, just wanna know my options.
1. Loosen the bottom bolt about 2 full turns. Tap the bolt firmly with a hammer to unseat the spring assembly. Once unseated, you may remove the bolt. Then loosen the top cap to remove entire spring assembly.

Coat new spring with thick grease like manitou prep-M. Install new spring. Add 10cc 10 wt oil to leg.

2. Pop-lock sucks, stay away from it.
 

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wheeeee!!!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SCUBAPRO said:
1. Loosen the bottom bolt about 2 full turns. Tap the bolt firmly with a hammer to unseat the spring assembly. Once unseated, you may remove the bolt. Then loosen the top cap to remove entire spring assembly.

Coat new spring with thick grease like manitou prep-M. Install new spring. Add 10cc 10 wt oil to leg.

2. Pop-lock sucks, stay away from it.
Thanks, those were the steps I was looking for.

So why does pop lock suck? is it less functional than the non-remote adjustment? is it just a hassle on your handlebars?
 

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Amphibious Technologies
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butocabra said:
Thanks, those were the steps I was looking for.

So why does pop lock suck? is it less functional than the non-remote adjustment? is it just a hassle on your handlebars?
Yes, it is just a hassle on the bars. The extra cable looks ugly and it's just as easy to reach down to activate the platform as it is to push down the poplock.
 

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The remote is very vulnerable.
The one crash I have done, guess what broke?
Now I have to figure out if I should just order the non-remote damper cartridge, or order another remote mount (I would imagine the remote mount would be cheaper, if it's an option).
Without the cable tension on the remote, I don't think there's really a way to adjust the compression.
crazyhouse
 

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Bicyclochondriac.
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butocabra said:
Got my 2005 pike race in the mail yesterday, and I've got a few questions:

1. spring replacement - I know how to dissassemble the top cap, pull the ball bearings, springs, unscrew the spring cap, but does the u-turn spring assembly just pull out, or do I have to unscrew the bottom nut as well?

2. the online retailer I purchased the fork from didn't list the fork as having the pop-lock remote. I wasn't wild about the idea of another lever cluttering up my bars. For those that have the remote - what's your take on durability, usefullness? also, anyone know the cost for the spare parts to transform it back to non-remote?

fork looks great, and I'll probably try the remote for a while, just wanna know my options.
Mine came with a poplock. The dealer told me I could just opt not to use it, but that turned out to be bad info. At first I did not think I wanted it, but now there are times I find it useful. I keep my floodgate backed pretty far out, so I don't have much of a lockout left, but it is just enough to really eliminate any fork dive on steep, slow, rocky descents. It is also helpful for launching drops and jumps. The longer I have my travel set at, the more difference it makes in the two situations I mention. I would never use this feature if it was not on the bars. With the poplock t's as easy as shifting gears.

The way it sits on my bars it is not very vulnerable. The more fragile parts are behind the bar. Nothing sticks up higher than the bar.

I guess if you are not going to use it then it is just one more think on your bars, and the poplock and cable together weigh 70 grams.
 
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