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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guy's iam about to buy a Pike for my Reign ....question is Coil or Air?

I really want a low maintence unit and dont want to spend my life tunning ..saying that I dont want to make the bike hevier than i can help ....so iam leaning to the Coil can any one arrgue the case for the Air ?...is air pike better for light dowhilling and aggersive trail riding?

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Motion activated
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I have a Pike 426 on my Reign.

Likes.

1) Maxell
2) Very stiff fork
3) 95-140mm works very well for the Reign. Pike air only goes down to 115mm
4) Very nice damping / doesn't dive much under braking.
5) Push will be doing mods for this fork soon :thumbsup: (it should address the lack of progressiveness + other goodies)
6) Price is great

Dislikes

1) The last 1" isn't progressive
2) No pre load settings on the spring
3) No clicks on the rebound knob
4) Rebound knob is on the bottom of the fork
 

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on my 3rd wind...
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mzungo said:
Hi guy's iam about to buy a Pike for my Reign ....question is Coil or Air?

I really want a low maintence unit and dont want to spend my life tunning ..saying that I dont want to make the bike hevier than i can help ....so iam leaning to the Coil can any one arrgue the case for the Air ?...is air pike better for light dowhilling and aggersive trail riding?

Any help would be appreciated.
Own Pike 426 coil u-turn. So plush and stiff. By far the best trail fork I ever used. Can't think of reason why I wouldn't want one except 5lbs weight?

Don't own air version, however. Have read some thread where others said it's a bit sticky and not as plush as coil version.

STH
 

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u-turn air

mzungo said:
Hi guy's iam about to buy a Pike for my Reign ....question is Coil or Air?

I really want a low maintence unit and dont want to spend my life tunning ..saying that I dont want to make the bike hevier than i can help ....so iam leaning to the Coil can any one arrgue the case for the Air ?...is air pike better for light dowhilling and aggersive trail riding?

Any help would be appreciated.
The u-turn air will drop down to 110mm travel, measuring 488mm a-c ride height. Plenty low for your Reign. The air will give you much better big hit capacity, it will not bottom out as easy as the coil, it is a bit too linear to the stroke end. If you dont do drops and you ride smooth, then the bottom out difference should not be that big a deal. If bottom out performance is important to you, the air is the better choice. Air is more tuneable and can be tuned more exact. The coil has very good small bump to mid stroke/medium sized bump performance, the air is not equal but close to the coil in small bump, from mid stroke on is where the air really shines. Overall the air is quite plush. The weight difference from the 426 coil to the 454 u-turn air will be around .7 of a pound difference, a little under 3/4 of a pound.
Better for light dh and aggro trail riding??? depends on your riding style etc., both will do the job well, the air will take more time to get tuned at first, but is well worth it in the end with the bottom out resistance the coil does not have. Maintenance is close maybe the coil will be a little longer on oil change intervals, but it is easy to do.
 

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Buy coil, much more cheaper and, if it ends not working for you, then you could "upgrade" it to air (around $120 in parts). Take a look at 2005 front shock (forks) reviews and look for the Pike's (all of them were coil by that time). You'll see that bottom out problems seem related to wrong coil the most of the times.

However, if you finally decided to buy the Pike Air, be confident that you'll have one of the best available forks. I owned one of those and it's an excellent fork but now a coil is going to my new bike :D, Basically, I'm not doing big jumps and a little more plushness will be welcome as well as the extra 15mm travel adjustment.
 

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Sugary Exoskeleton
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Go Coil unless weight is the most important thing

I have both and the coil fork is easier to work on and requires less maintenance. Some feel the stock spring is too soft, but I weigh 165 and it's fine for me. Get the spring weight dialed and you are done.

Also, if you get a U-turn model, you get more adjustment range with the coil.

JMH
 

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hello!
I am facing the exact situation!

I want to pull the Z1Fr1 off my Heckler (its to tall and the springs are too stiff for me) and put a Pike on it.
Here in Germany I can get a 426 coil or a 454 Air-uturn. Price is 80$ difference.

I am 148lbs and always have difficulties to get an adequate, soft spring.
I´d probably need a soft spring for the coil. Had a Pike SL last year and achieved only 20mm of sag. Was ok, but I like more sag.

So, keeping in mind that the soft spring is about 60$, I could buy the 454 in the first place. Because it has air.

But the 454 has an alloy steerer and a hollow crown. Not good for hucking.
I do some 3-5 feet drops, I am only 148lbs.
Do you think the 454 will handle that?

After all, if I didn´t like the Air uturn, I could just get a spring and put it into the 454.

Or should I just spare the money and get the 426. Steel steerer is nicer, because it is more stout?

Greetings Znarf
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How to change the spring ?

mzungo said:
Thanks guys, after reading your comments I have orderd a Coil Pike with a firm spring:thumbsup:
My new Pike arrived this morning fitted the sucker now i have to change the spring, or do I?

It say's on the rockshox site for my weight a litle over 180lbs i should use a firm spring.
But when i sit on the bike it only sags 19mm which is within recommended sag ....so should i put the firm one in or go with what ive got?

or is it possible it came with a firm and how can i tell?
 

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EDR
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mzungo said:
My new Pike arrived this morning fitted the sucker now i have to change the spring, or do I?

It say's on the rockshox site for my weight a litle over 180lbs i should use a firm spring.
But when i sit on the bike it only sags 19mm which is within recommended sag ....so should i put the firm one in or go with what ive got?

or is it possible it came with a firm and how can i tell?
Medium has red paint on it and the firm has blue on it. I weigh 10lbs more than you and I rode the stock medium for a few months. I don't huck but a 2 or 3ft drop to flat does happen from time to time. I put a firm spring in and like it better. Still very compliant on small bump but no bottom out issues.

I say ride what you got for a while then swap out so you can compare the difference. If your wheels never leave the ground the stock spring should be perfect.

to remove the spring remove the bottom nut and the top cap nut, the spring comes right out. RS has directions on their website. > http://www.sram.com/en/service/rockshox/view.php?catID=1&subcatID=5
 

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on my 3rd wind...
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mzungo said:
My new Pike arrived this morning fitted the sucker now i have to change the spring, or do I?

It say's on the rockshox site for my weight a litle over 180lbs i should use a firm spring.
But when i sit on the bike it only sags 19mm which is within recommended sag ....so should i put the firm one in or go with what ive got?

or is it possible it came with a firm and how can i tell?
19mm sag out 140mm travel? That seems like your spring is to firm if anything. I would leave it along until your seal and bushing break in after few rides then recheck. If it still sag only 19mm, then it could be that you have too firm of a spring or your riding weight bike setup may be too much rear wheel biased. Ideally you should have 20 to 30% sag out of total travel. That's 28mm to 42mm.

STH
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
One more pike question

I prefer to use a headlock device rather than a starfangled nut, but the Pike has a closed bottom to the steerer with a smaller threaded hole is there a special headlock to fit ?

By the way thanks for all the input guy's
 

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mzungo said:
I prefer to use a headlock device rather than a starfangled nut, but the Pike has a closed bottom to the steerer with a smaller threaded hole is there a special headlock to fit ?

By the way thanks for all the input guy's
I don't believe there's is a headlock device u can buy that will work on the pike right off the bat. I did read a thread few months ago where someone did a mod that seemed to be very simple where he was able to use similar "head lock" device. Sorry can't be more helpful; you may have to do some careful thread search. I am using star nut now with zero issue.

STH
 

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mzungo said:
I prefer to use a headlock device rather than a starfangled nut, but the Pike has a closed bottom to the steerer with a smaller threaded hole is there a special headlock to fit ?

By the way thanks for all the input guy's
This doesn't exactly answer your question, but FWIW I run a hopey steering damper so I don't use a star nut. I preload the HS bearing with a length 1/4 thread and some washer & nuts. I had to drill out the steerer tube plug a little to get the hopey to work - not sure if the 1/4 threaded rod will fit without any drilling.
 

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Steve71 said:
This doesn't exactly answer your question, but FWIW I run a hopey steering damper so I don't use a star nut. I preload the HS bearing with a length 1/4 thread and some washer & nuts. I had to drill out the steerer tube plug a little to get the hopey to work - not sure if the 1/4 threaded rod will fit without any drilling.
Steve, from your profile you own a Pike 424 Coil, right?. The fact is that I just bought a Pike 426 Coil and a Hopey Damper, and realized that there is no space to tightening the damper bolt (that opens the dampler clamps) from the bottom of the steering tube. My Hopey has a 12mm nut on the bottom and so, a 12mm socket is required. Looking at the inside of the steering tube, mine seems to be a butted tubing, and seems pretty difficult to drill a hole out such that the socket go through it.

How big was the hole that you drilled out on your fork and was the steering tube butted, just like mine?

I'd really appreciate your comments.
 

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Check out this thread:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=80958&highlight=hopey+root

The only thing I did differently is I didn't bother to chop down the 12mm socket - I just picked a lightweight one. Also I just used a standard 1/4 drive extension rather than making my own.

I ended up drilling out the plug to 5/16 IIRC. If you can, use a threaded rod to preload the HS (before installing the damper), rather than the 35mm nut on the damper. I found that when using the 35mm nut, the damper would creep up in the steerer tube long before I could get enough preload on on the HS.

Viva la Tscheezy!!
 

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Tavinho said:
Buy coil, much more cheaper and, if it ends not working for you, then you could "upgrade" it to air (around $120 in parts). Take a look at 2005 front shock (forks) reviews and look for the Pike's (all of them were coil by that time). You'll see that bottom out problems seem related to wrong coil the most of the times.

However, if you finally decided to buy the Pike Air, be confident that you'll have one of the best available forks. I owned one of those and it's an excellent fork but now a coil is going to my new bike :D, Basically, I'm not doing big jumps and a little more plushness will be welcome as well as the extra 15mm travel adjustment.
Coil is cheaper than air, but when you factor in the cost of a replacement spring the difference is negligible. Also, Rockshox is horrible IMO when it comes to stocking replacement springs. i tried to get a stiffer spring for my Pike here in BC Canada.. but was told there was a 2 month backlog:madmax: . I ended up using a Nixon fork instead and the Manitou spring was only $35 as compared to $75 for the Pike

Can anyone confirm that Push will be doing Pike mods soon ? I still think the Pike is nice fork and will probably switch out the Nixon when I can get a X Firm PIKE SPRING. comes available
 

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al-r said:
Can anyone confirm that Push will be doing Pike mods soon ? I still think the Pike is nice fork and will probably switch out the Nixon when I can get a X Firm PIKE SPRING. comes available
I was at the Push factory on Tuesday and asked about the Pike mods. Around 6-8 weeks was what I was told. They said that they were going to address lack of progressiveness on the coil Pike. The rebound circuit also sounded very interesting.

Basically, they've bought a new CNC machine to make parts. Once they get it setup then they'll be able to produce a lot of new stuff quickly. :thumbsup:
 
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