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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had posted info about "semi bath" oil stuff a week or so ago on the Pike,
Now the next thing I am trying is the same Mobil 1 motor oil in the air chamber, just changed it over tonight, so it will take a few weeks to be sure about what effect if any the oil will have on the air chamber o-ring seals, and how the fork feels vs. the fork oil reccomended by RS. Since I have a few extra damper parts no worries if the motor oil does in the seals.
The semi bath and now the air chamber both using the Mobil 1 motor oil is in an attempt to get the stroke as smooth as possible and hopefully get it to last longer than the fork oil provides.
Stay tuned.......
 

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noMAD man
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DGC, what oil weight does RS recommend internally for the air chamber? We thought we were going to get to tear into one of those last week. One of our customers has a Pike Air, and it just started letting air migrate from the positive chamber to the negative chamber...it appears. When we called RS to get parts and info, they said this was rare enough that they wanted the fork sent to them for inspection...darn. Looks nice and simple in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
oil

TNC said:
DGC, what oil weight does RS recommend internally for the air chamber? We thought we were going to get to tear into one of those last week. One of our customers has a Pike Air, and it just started letting air migrate from the positive chamber to the negative chamber...it appears. When we called RS to get parts and info, they said this was rare enough that they wanted the fork sent to them for inspection...darn. Looks nice and simple in there.
RS reccomends 3-5 cc's of 15 weight fork oil, either their own labeled 15 wt. or Torco 20 wt. is the stuff. Depending on how old that Pike is, and weather ther was any oil ontop of the air piston, fresh oil on the air piston might just be your fix, though a bad seal is possible.
 

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TNC said:
DGC, what oil weight does RS recommend internally for the air chamber? We thought we were going to get to tear into one of those last week. One of our customers has a Pike Air, and it just started letting air migrate from the positive chamber to the negative chamber...it appears. When we called RS to get parts and info, they said this was rare enough that they wanted the fork sent to them for inspection...darn. Looks nice and simple in there.
That isn't rare at all. The guys who work the phone line in Chicago seem to get less and less knowledgeable every week. Probally because now that they have to know the entire SRAM product line....

RS reccommends 15 wt oil for all the lubrication purposes. I use whatever i have the most of, so usually 2 wt. Air migration means it's time for new o-rings. There are plenty that come in the '06 boxxer service kit if you have any of those, otherwise you can order a Reba/pike kit and it will have all the appropriate o-rings. Probally time to replace the glide ring and o-rings in the damper as well.

From what I've experience there was a late '05 production batch with sub-standard o-rings.
 

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carpe mañana
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I had that same issue with my dual air Pike. I would begin my ride at ~135mm of travel and end somewhere in the 120mm range. I tried a lot of stuff, including heavier oils and I was always losing travel. The thing that did the Pike in for me was that the damper leaked through the o-ring by the floodgate. If I stored my bike upside down, I would find it in the morning with oil all over my shifters.

_MK
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
slight update

DGC said:
I had posted info about "semi bath" oil stuff a week or so ago on the Pike,
Now the next thing I am trying is the same Mobil 1 motor oil in the air chamber, just changed it over tonight, so it will take a few weeks to be sure about what effect if any the oil will have on the air chamber o-ring seals, and how the fork feels vs. the fork oil reccomended by RS. Since I have a few extra damper parts no worries if the motor oil does in the seals.
The semi bath and now the air chamber both using the Mobil 1 motor oil is in an attempt to get the stroke as smooth as possible and hopefully get it to last longer than the fork oil provides.
Stay tuned.......
The 5w30 might be too thick. Seems to lose smoothness on longer real choppy non stop decents. Til then real smooth. Might try to either mix with fork oil or just go thinner version of the Mobil 1 5w30.
 

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DGC said:
The 5w30 might be too thick. Seems to lose smoothness on longer real choppy non stop decents. Til then real smooth. Might try to either mix with fork oil or just go thinner version of the Mobil 1 5w30.
My VW calls for the 'European Car' formula of Mobil 1, which is 0w40. I use any leftover oil for chain oil sometimes and it works well for that too. Anyway, this blend is really hard to find, and I have only had luck finding it at certain Schuck's Auto Parts in my area. Might be worth a try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
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DGC said:
The 5w30 might be too thick. Seems to lose smoothness on longer real choppy non stop decents. Til then real smooth. Might try to either mix with fork oil or just go thinner version of the Mobil 1 5w30.
RS thinks any thinner than the 15 wt. and some oil could pass by the air piston seal, getting into the negative air chamber. But.....they did not feel the motor oil idea was wrong, just not tried as far as they know in their shop. So, what I did was tried a mix tonight. 3-5 cc's is so small of an amount to begin with. I put in 3 cc's of 15 wt. fork oil and 1cc of the motor oil for a total of 4 cc's ontop of the air piston.......I'll try this. Kind of getting silly at these small amounts, but then again if it works better than the stock fork oil....???
 
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