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not so super...
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Trying to get the Pack built up this weekend and needed a wrench for the RF X-Type BB. You would think it would be fairly easy to find a Park BBT-9 in a town with about 40 bike shops. I went to 6 shops and 2 didn't even know what I was talking about and I got the standard answer, "we can order it for you", at the other 4!!!

! question: Would it be ok to drill a small hole in the machined-out part of the rocker arm to run a zip tie through. Because of the RA shape the zip tie slides all the way to the back. I need a wat to hold my brake line down so it doesnt hook on the seatpost QR.

So, that means no build pics today but I will add a few more teasers.

1. DHX weight sans spring
2. Frame sans shock weight (includes CK steelset)
3. Frame and DHX w/ 400 lb spring (includes CK steelset)
 

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outclassed by his bike
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I Feel Your Rant

SSINGA said:
Trying to get the Pack built up this weekend and needed a wrench for the RF X-Type BB. You would think it would be fairly easy to find a Park BBT-9 in a town with about 40 bike shops. I went to 6 shops and 2 didn't even know what I was talking about and I got the standard answer, "we can order it for you", at the other 4!!!
Been there, done that! I ended up ordering mine on line, of course. I had it in three days, when it would have taken a week for the LBS to get my special order, at which point I would have had to make a SECOND trip there. Meanwhile I ordered a couple other necessities to make the postage pay. If one of the shops had had the wrench they probably would have gotten the business on the other stuff, too.

Note: As far as I know, none of the shops I visited belongs to any of the shop owners on the board. (None of you has a shop in easy striking distance of me, I think.)
 

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Shot Down in Flames...
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SSINGA said:
Trying to get the Pack built up this weekend and needed a wrench for the RF X-Type BB. You would think it would be fairly easy to find a Park BBT-9 in a town with about 40 bike shops. I went to 6 shops and 2 didn't even know what I was talking about and I got the standard answer, "we can order it for you", at the other 4!!!
Sean,

Check Roswell Bikes. They don't have the Park, but have a pile of the stock Shimano ones for $11. They are right by the service counter. They must keep all the wrenches out of the cranksets that they install.

D.
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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There is no structural reason why you couldn't drill a little hole, but I still would do absolutely everything else possible to avoid it. Start by doing what Mani_Utah did for his small orange Pack.
 

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As one of the resident machinist's here I would say that a small hole, about 1/8th diameter, will not affect the structural integrity of the rocker. They have a large fudge-factor designed into them. However, as tscheezy suggests, try to find another way. Think of the aesthetic value thing. It will look funny, and all your peeps will make fun of you.
 

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not so super...
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Discussion Starter #6
You don't think a small hole in the rocker would look better than a pile of zip ties? No offense Mani_UT, it was an good idea for a fix.
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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An RFX owner a while back posted a pic of a little "bridge" piece he put between the apex of the brake and shifter cable arches to hold them spread apart so they would sit away from the seat tube. It looked pretty good. You could also run a Salsa QR binder which has way less junk sticking out to snag on.
 

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ssinga

I have an extra wrench for the race face outer bearings if you still need, you can have it.
Just let me know....
Jason
 

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not so super...
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the offer MP. I found one at the one shop I can always count on and should've started there to begin with. They let me borrow the shop wrench to take home!
 

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Thank about function

Zip-tieing your cables to the rockers will add an additional 2 bends into the cables housing, both of which must cycle with the suspenion. That's not going to help your shifting any. Besides, it will add .01g!!!!
:eek:
(well, I guess drilling holes in your rockers would make up for that...)

My suggestion would be to try crossing your cables; run the rear shifter cable along the left side of your top tube, and your front along the right. Then, cross the rear over to the right behind the seat tube, this way you can (loosely) zip-tie it to your brake line. The front is out of the picture at this point so it will look clean. this might solve your hang-up issue, and it would also increase the radius of your cable-housing bends, which reduces friction. It's worth a look.

Side note; it's interesting that this is a (very small) problem with the 6-pack, on my RFX I don't need to do anything with the cables since the top tube sits a few inches below the QR collar. I even run an extra long piece of housing, so I can switch rockers without replacing my cables. But, that's the price you pay for DHX clearance on a small frame I guess. No big deal.


SSINGA said:
You don't think a small hole in the rocker would look better than a pile of zip ties? No offense Mani_UT, it was an good idea for a fix.
 

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No, that's not phonetic
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Another thing would be to simply run a longer length of housing so the relaxed, unsagged resting position for the housing loop would be to sit ABOVE the seat binder. That would be worth a try since if it didn't work you could always cut the housing shorter to do something else.
 

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not so super...
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Discussion Starter #15
zenmonkey said:
Have you looked at problem solvers (see image)?
The problem solvers were my first thought, but they won't mount to a vertical tube to run the cable/housing horizontal.

Thanks for all the suggestions - Looks like the Mani_UT way is the best option. If the cable stops were down the side of the top tube like the RFX it would not be a problem.

TS - that would be one big loop of flopping and tapping hyd line to loop all the way over the seat QR:eek: .
 

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Run them over your shoulders like suspenders. They'll act like a harness system, giving you the confidence to do anything on the bike and know that you'll always be firmly seated.

Glad I could help.
 

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SSINGA said:
Thanks for all the suggestions - Looks like the Mani_UT way is the best option. If the cable stops were down the side of the top tube like the RFX it would not be a problem.
Not sure if you can see this from the picture but Kona uses this clamp on "thingy" that slides on to the seat tube (below the seat post clamp). It has grooves cut into it so that the cables will lay horizontally and then vertical slots cut into it so you can use a zip tie to tie it to the clamp. I stole mine from my Kona and I'm using it on my pack. You could see if Joe - Kona over on the Kona forum would know how to get one of these little guys :cool:

--rip
 
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