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I have been using the 190x50 McLeod as well - 130 mm fork, slackest setting and a
- 1 degree works components angleset to bring BB height and headangle back in line.
No offset bushings - but that may be different from frame to frame.
Setup works flawlessly - can only recommend it....
 

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Hi Vadim and Chris,

Thanks for the replies, any head angle changes that you made to make up for the longer shock? Which rear wheel position do you use?

Ta,

S
No head angle change,but thinking to go with -1 and drop fork travel from 140mm to 130mm
Using long (27,5) dropouts in slack position.
 

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Shock fitted. Needed 2mm offset bushing. Found that a stone had already crushed the front der cable stop so not much left to foul there...... !

Any suggestions for base rebound settings for the mcleod before I head out?
 

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So first ride with the mcleod.

Did 12 back to back runs down our local DH/enduro tracks swapping between 190x50 mcleod (2mm offset) and 184x44 dbair IL (6 runs with each).

No real difference on smooth flow stuff but in the rooty, rocky high speed stuff with braking bumps the mcleod felt more composed and smoother. The dbair got me down but I felt more rattled and tired. Strava suggests 5-15 seconds faster across the board for a ~3 min run with the mcleod.

Bike also felt more balanced with the suspension at 120r/130f.

Have to see how long term goes but so far I think that it is a better bike if you do choppy trails.
 

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I'm looking to do this to my Phantom as well. Anyone running the McLeod on a Medium frame with no offset bushings?

FYI - I am running 27.5 30mm ID rims with 2.8 tires, and plan to keep it that way but I still want to be able to run 29x2.4 as well. I don't mind cutting off the FD cable stop if I have to.

Thanks!
 

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I'm looking to do this to my Phantom as well. Anyone running the McLeod on a Medium frame with no offset bushings?

FYI - I am running 27.5 30mm ID rims with 2.8 tires, and plan to keep it that way but I still want to be able to run 29x2.4 as well. I don't mind cutting off the FD cable stop if I have to.

Thanks!
Nobody?
 

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Not on a medium frame but my large 2014 needed the front der stop removing (or crushed by rock in my case) and 2mm of offset bushings. It is all very close to manufacturing and frame tolerances so I think that it will be specific to your frame.

I tested it before mcleod purchase by drilling holes in some 10mm wooden battens and putting it in in place of the shock. 188mm was the longest I could get in even with my rock crushed front der stop. Shorter than that and the top linkage hit the seat tube at full compression (i.e. if the holes in the wood were less than 138mm (140mm for compressed shock minus 2mm for offset bushing)).
 

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Not on a medium frame but my large 2014 needed the front der stop removing (or crushed by rock in my case) and 2mm of offset bushings. It is all very close to manufacturing and frame tolerances so I think that it will be specific to your frame.

I tested it before mcleod purchase by drilling holes in some 10mm wooden battens and putting it in in place of the shock. 188mm was the longest I could get in even with my rock crushed front der stop. Shorter than that and the top linkage hit the seat tube at full compression (i.e. if the holes in the wood were less than 138mm (140mm for compressed shock minus 2mm for offset bushing)).
Thanks Shackleton. That's a great idea. I can make a shock mock-up tool. I guess it would be a length of material with 2 holes being 190mm apart and another tool with holes 140mm away from one another.
 

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Thanks Shackleton. That's a great idea. I can make a shock mock-up tool. I guess it would be a length of material with 2 holes being 190mm apart and another tool with holes 140mm away from one another.
So did you test this out, and if so how did it work?

Thinking of trying a Mcleod on my M frame instead of servicing the current shock...
 

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I did not test it out yet. Maybe this weekend I'll give it a try.
Ok sure. Any updates would be appreciated. I'm a simple man, and I'd be most likely to try it if I don't have to mess with offset bushings and such.
I guess the other issue could be the top linkage making contact with the ST?
I've only got what looks like < 10mm of clearance there at full compression now.
 

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I took my shock off last night and using a tape measure, tried to see if a 190mm long shock would fit. The swingarm bottoms out on the front derailleur cable stop almost immediately after going past the 184mm stock length.

It also looks like if you cut away the cable stop, you still would run into trouble with the swingarm itself touching the frame near the lower linkage. Hard to explain.

I think for Medium frames, you would need at least one 3mm offset bushing, plus cut the cable stop off.

I've decided that I'm fine with the stock rear travel. I have to make a decision now to have my CC DB iL rebuilt, or buy a new shock. The Db iL is the new version, and it's lasted 2 years.

Any opinions on $200 rear shocks that are good for the Phantom?
 

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I took my shock off last night and using a tape measure, tried to see if a 190mm long shock would fit. The swingarm bottoms out on the front derailleur cable stop almost immediately after going past the 184mm stock length.

It also looks like if you cut away the cable stop, you still would run into trouble with the swingarm itself touching the frame near the lower linkage. Hard to explain.

I think for Medium frames, you would need at least one 3mm offset bushing, plus cut the cable stop off.

I've decided that I'm fine with the stock rear travel. I have to make a decision now to have my CC DB iL rebuilt, or buy a new shock. The Db iL is the new version, and it's lasted 2 years.

Any opinions on $200 rear shocks that are good for the Phantom?
I've had the same debate with myself about buying new vs. rebuilding. I hate that we live in a throwaway society, but a brand new shock is often not that far off the cost of a full rebuild, if you pay someone to do it. Is this the Cane Creek you have?

https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Cree...22Tr9CZUXaetPsJCdyRE7jI_qfMOM3jAaAmJ8EALw_wcB

Jenson says only one left, hopefully they get more!
 

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Phantom V1 size M works with 190/50 shock if you cut the cable stop for the FD off and grind about 2 to 3 millimeters off of the edge of the swingarm in the spot where it would hit the seattube.
Then no offset bushings are needed.
 

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Hmmm... even though the newer frames don't have the FD stop, I'm probably in the same boat if it's going to make frame contact.

I've had the same debate with myself about buying new vs. rebuilding. I hate that we live in a throwaway society, but a brand new shock is often not that far off the cost of a full rebuild, if you pay someone to do it. Is this the Cane Creek you have?

https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Cree...22Tr9CZUXaetPsJCdyRE7jI_qfMOM3jAaAmJ8EALw_wcB

Jenson says only one left, hopefully they get more!
I have this one. It's listed on sale for $375, but when you go to the product page it's $475. I don't see why the one you linked wouldn't work though.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek-Dbair-Il-Rear-Shock

I called Cane Creek and they want $160 for the rebuild, plus shipping both ways. But I've done that before, and the shock lasted 2 years. Most people would say that's acceptable but I'd like to see how the bike performs with a different shock. Maybe one that can be serviced by a home mechanic.
 

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Phantom V1 size M works with 190/50 shock if you cut the cable stop for the FD off and grind about 2 to 3 millimeters off of the edge of the swingarm in the spot where it would hit the seattube.
Then no offset bushings are needed.
Excellent niknaim! I was looking at it again last night and thought the same thing.

I was thinking maybe grind the 2mm off of the ISCG tab. Thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Edit - I re-read your post and it appears there is a different spot than I am seeing that needs grinding.
 
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