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Hi all, I'm going to jump on the Phantom sizing help bandwagon. I am looking at getting a 2017 phantom V2 frame online for a good price. I'm 6'-4" with a 36.5" inseam. If it helps, my torso is 25.5" and my arm length (armpit to center of palm) is 26" (+1/2" ape index)

In another forum when asking for advice on upgrading my frame, it was recommended to go with a newer frame with a longer reach at my height. So i was wondering if anyone here has ridden a phantom V2 that is approximately my height and if they felt they could use extra reach.

I'm coming from a large 2006 GF sugar 293, so anything with newer geometry and an XL size will be a big improvement for me. But just wanted to suffice myself on the reach before pulling the trigger.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I'm 6'3" and wear 34" inseam pants... although I don't know why my "cycling measurement" inseam is, if that makes sense. I'm comfortable on an XL V2 Phantom. I run mine with a 35mm stem and 780mm bars. The only thing I wish it had is a higher stack height. My Canfield EPO felt much higher in the front; the top of my saddle was perfectly aligned with the height of the bars. On the Phantom, the saddle sits an inch or two above. Not that it matters... more of a symmetry thing.

Can't wait to get my hands on a new Paradox.
 

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Bit shorter than you, only 6'2.25", 35.5" cycling inseam and I had a PP V1 Phantom with 450mm Reach and ended up running a 60mm stem/780mm bar, will be going for a V2 shortly and trying the XL, where I expect I'll need to run a 35-40mm stem to get the same cockpit fit, so you should be more than fine on the 488 Reach of the XL with a 40-60mm stem depending on your flexibility and riding style. FYI, I also ride a PP XL Prime from 2012 with a 478mm reach using 40mm stem/780 bar and love the fit. Also, I do not like the steep STA thing, so run a setback post on both my Banshee's to help slacken that out, so guessing if I didn't do that I'd maybe want a 10mm longer stem to get the same cockpit feel.
I'm 6'3" and wear 34" inseam pants... although I don't know why my "cycling measurement" inseam is, if that makes sense. I'm comfortable on an XL V2 Phantom. I run mine with a 35mm stem and 780mm bars. The only thing I wish it had is a higher stack height. My Canfield EPO felt much higher in the front; the top of my saddle was perfectly aligned with the height of the bars. On the Phantom, the saddle sits an inch or two above. Not that it matters... more of a symmetry thing.

Can't wait to get my hands on a new Paradox.
Thanks for the input LyNx and stec06! I did end up buying the frame and I've been ordering parts. I got a 50mm stem and 760mm wide x 30mm rise bars to start. I'll plan on starting with 40mm of headset spacers when I cut my fork initially to leave plenty of adjustment. Once I figure out how many headset spacers I want, I'll do the final cut.

My current bike has a 1" setback seat post, so I'll try that first and see if I want a set back dropper when I buy one. That will probably be the last piece of the puzzle once I get a couple rides under my belt.

Overall I'm pretty excited about the build. Waiting on parts is a killer though!
 

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So I'm have my new phantom V2 frame and was looking at the dropouts. Can someone clarify the installation sequence for the dropouts? I've looked for the instructions for the newer dropouts (axle locking nut and derailleur hanger bolt are the same nut), but cant find them.

Obviously, the dropouts need to be bolted to the frame with the flip chips using the 4 cap screws. Then I would assume the derailleur hanger is bolted on with the locking nut, then the thru axle is inserted from the other side and tightened into the locking nut. If this is the case, wouldnt tightening the thru axle loosen the locking nut since the thru axle (DT Swiss RWS) is 15 N-m and the locking nut is only 10 N-m? Or am I supposed to hold the locking nut with a wrench while I tighten the thru axle?

Thanks in advance.
 

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So I'm have my new phantom V2 frame and was looking at the dropouts. Can someone clarify the installation sequence for the dropouts? I've looked for the instructions for the newer dropouts (axle locking nut and derailleur hanger bolt are the same nut), but cant find them.

Obviously, the dropouts need to be bolted to the frame with the flip chips using the 4 cap screws. Then I would assume the derailleur hanger is bolted on with the locking nut, then the thru axle is inserted from the other side and tightened into the locking nut. If this is the case, wouldnt tightening the thru axle loosen the locking nut since the thru axle (DT Swiss RWS) is 15 N-m and the locking nut is only 10 N-m? Or am I supposed to hold the locking nut with a wrench while I tighten the thru axle?

Thanks in advance.
Optimum installation process is:

Install the hanger in the dropout first, ensuring that the hanger is sitting in proper alignment when tightening the retainer bolt to torque.

Then loosely mount the dropouts on the frame using the flipchips and 4 M8 bolts.

Then insert wheel in the dropouts and instal the through axle loosely. (this insurese that the dropouts are perfectly aligned.

Tighten the 4 dropout bolts to torque.

Tighten the axle to torque.

Ride and have fun.
 

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Hi Vball

Here is the site for the manuals, hope this helps.

https://www.bansheebikes.com/manuals

Have a great time with the Phantom as I am a huge fan of mine...
Thanks howman. I had seen that site but the Phantom V2 manual shows the older style dropouts with the separate hanger mounting bolt.

Definitely looking forward to getting this thing built and on the trails! Just waiting on several parts to arrive. Lots of online store are backed up now and slow with the shipping. Its tough to be patient! :madman::madman::madman:

Optimum installation process is:

Install the hanger in the dropout first, ensuring that the hanger is sitting in proper alignment when tightening the retainer bolt to torque.

Then loosely mount the dropouts on the frame using the flipchips and 4 M8 bolts.

Then insert wheel in the dropouts and instal the through axle loosely. (this insurese that the dropouts are perfectly aligned.

Tighten the 4 dropout bolts to torque.

Tighten the axle to torque.

Ride and have fun.
Thanks Builttoride! Seems simple enough. I kind of figured being a structural engineer, I was over thinking it a bit. I've seen you've responded to people having issues with the DT Swiss RWS thru bolt loosening. Was there ever a fix to that? My dropouts came with the RWS, so I was hoping there was a simple fix.

Thanks again!
 

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Thanks howman. I had seen that site but the Phantom V2 manual shows the older style dropouts with the separate hanger mounting bolt.

Definitely looking forward to getting this thing built and on the trails! Just waiting on several parts to arrive. Lots of online store are backed up now and slow with the shipping. Its tough to be patient! :madman::madman::madman:



Thanks Builttoride! Seems simple enough. I kind of figured being a structural engineer, I was over thinking it a bit. I've seen you've responded to people having issues with the DT Swiss RWS thru bolt loosening. Was there ever a fix to that? My dropouts came with the RWS, so I was hoping there was a simple fix.

Thanks again!
Looseneing DT swiss axles seems to be exception rather than rule. Some of those who had this issue replaced their rear hub bearings and solved it.
 

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I am 5'10", (178cm) with 32" inseam. I ride a Large Phantom V2 with a 50mm stem. Works great for me.
 
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