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Albany West Oz
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, have been swapping over my shimano cassette from wheel to wheel no probs but my new sram pg990 doesn't want to engage my chainwhip to retighten, am I missing something here?

Cheers.
 

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Okay, have been swapping over my shimano cassette from wheel to wheel no probs but my new sram pg990 doesn't want to engage my chainwhip?? to retighten, am I missing something here?
If its the lockring/cassette tool that isn't wanting to engage, then check the cassette has no spacers behind it - this is if you are finding the lockring won't engage any threads.
Also try the initial threading by hand, then the subsequent tightening by tool.

If the lockring looks like it should screw in ok but doesn't, then remove the cassette and check the lockring will screw onto the hub with nothing in the way.
 

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Albany West Oz
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290 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, I have always used the whip to retighten as well so as not to stress the hub, never really thought that 40nm is probably less than my massive leg strength;)

Assumed that as the wheel was held when tightening the lock ring then the force on the wheel was greater than when it was allowed to rotate under normal riding conditions... but then doing a track stand applies loads of force... but then with a disk brake and track standing the hub is braced....

I'll stop now, clearly I need to think less and ride more, thanks for the replies.
 

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Meh.
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You're over thinking this.

It's fine to tighten the lockring without using a chainwhip.

Anyways... when you're torquing, it's not a sudden loading. It's a gradual build up. When you're pedaling and the hub is not engaged, all that force is transmitted once the pawls in the freehub engages. Have you never done pedal kicks? or pedaled as the rear wheel is rolling over something?
 

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Think about this a second.

Climbing an embankment using a 24/30 gear combination put's about 120-200 (or more) foot pounds of torque on the hub, depending on what you weigh and how hard you try to accelerate.

That dwarfs the lockring torque.

Those of who worked on bikes back in the days of spin-on freewheels remember only too well how much torque was needed to remove a freewheel after it had been ridden a while, especially in hilly country.
 

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Dirt Deviant
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FBinNY said:
Those of who worked on bikes back in the days of spin-on freewheels remember only too well how much torque was needed to remove a freewheel after it had been ridden a while, especially in hilly country.
Yep. Put the freewheel tool in a vise, and watch the spokes cringe in agony as you turn the rim to remove the freewheel. Always makes me feel like I am driving a bus with no power steering....hahaha
 
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