[Crockpot2001]

I am VERY duck footed on the right side and my size 15 foot hits the frame on my new Kona Big Honzo. I typically can get away with 3 washers on the pedal threads but this is more than that. I need about another 1/2". I use a pedal extender on my gravel bike and it works well but I do not put the stress of MTB riding on that. I weigh 230 fully kitted and occasionally hit flow trails. No drops great than 3'. I use Shimano XT pedals

Anyone have any concerns over using an axle extender of 3/4" on a MTB?

Cheers!

 

[Tjaard]

Absolutely, I would not do it. Have a look around, there are pedals with longer spindles, Crank brothers DH is one.

Second thing would be to have a shoe that puts the cleat further back. This will mean your toe is further out, rather than your heel. Being further in.
NSMB reviewed the scott Mtb comp
https://nsmb.com/articles/bontrager-jfw-winter-boots-scott-mtb-comp-shoes/

 

[driver bob]

A couple of companies make different size pedals, off the top of my head Issi and Spank come to mind:

https://rideissi.com/articles/how-to-find-your-flat-pedal-size

https://spank-ind.com/products/spoon-110-pedals

I haven't used either but they both claim to increase the effective spindle length.

 

[*OneSpeed*]

Yeah, these are what came to mind. https://rideissi.com/pedals/issi-flash

+12mm option at the bottom of the drop down menu.

 

[MSU Alum]

As mentioned, regardless of what spindle options you can find, putting the cleat back and inboard will both help. And, of course going to flats, like those Spoon 110's, could just be what you need to do.

 

[Battery]

Are you opposed to clipless pedals? I ride on Crankbrothers Mallet E and DH pedals with the long spindles installed. My feet stop rubbing on chainstays and everything.

https://www.crankbrothers.com/collections/mallet/products/mallet-e-ls

They are almost a quarter inch longer than the standard Mallet E or DH pedals just in case you need that much more clearance. I saw a difference with my feet when I rode on the standard Mallet E and went to the DH pedal with the long spindle.

 

[Crockpot2001]

Thanks for the replies. I am not terribly interested in going to flats as that control of my foot and leg is welcome. I end up pedaling right on the arch and my foot ends up paying for it. That said, I may need to review this as the bike in question is my Appalachian rock crawler and quick exits are nice amongst the rocks.

Shoe cleat review is in order. I should also review how thick the heel padding is. Some shoes are fluffy.

Thanks for the feedback

 

[Crockpot2001]

Last night I jammed my cleats all the way back on my SPD shoes. I then rode my Camber (not the bike of more serious tolerance) and went for an easy singletrack ride. The cleat had been in a very forward position. What I noticed immediatly that that the seat needed to be dropped almost a full inch. This is a good thing for me being long legged and the bar drop is often significant and bike rise is often lacking. I also noticed is was very tough to make my right heal rub. It needed deliberate motion to make it happen. I also noticed my knees were a weeeeee bet tender when done with my ride. I think I will move the seat back a bit and possibly down again. No hard rides for a while until I adapt. I will transfer the setback and saddle rise to my other bikes when I settle in.