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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Being a 350 plus clyde, I can honestly say there are extra rules for us. Now I have heard frame this and frame that....that's fine but I've broken some expensive parts in the past few years. My latest one was Shimano's SLX cranks and SLX shifters. One rule I have is.....unless you plan on going XTR or Race Face or some other 3rd party besides shimano, avoid the upper middle of shimano as much as possible. I have had some older LX and XT cranks in the past but they were heavier. However they were stronger. Nowdays I recommend for clyde in staying with XTR or Deore. They seem stronger than the ones between them. Even my Deore shifters on my commuter were better than the SLX. Also, Make sure your hubs are up to par that can handle your weight. For me, the WTB Speed Disk won this battle for value and price. I have friends that are clydes and they said their LX and SLX needed a repack about everyother ride. But I just think they are using cheap bearings.
 

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Making fat cool since '71
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Having been as high as 320 myself years ago....mega-clydes have zero biz worrying about component weights. Even those that are super tall and yoked (muscular for the clueless). Strong wheels are a top priority to be sure...and cranks and fork. Good luck bro.

Brock...
 

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bholwell said:
So it was the SLX BB that failed?

And I don't understand about the shifters either.
Me too please explain.

How did both break and /or fail?

Shimano claims slx cranks are stronger than XT.

I went with them to save some $$ and weight over the saints. (Which should be strong enough for clyde use)

Thanks for sharing.
 

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Carbon is a no-no for jumbo clydes, too. I agree that the Deore stuff is stronger than SLX. Get XTR if you have the $$$ and do not plan on many drops.
 

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I'm SUCH a square....
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Ditto on the carbon, also ti is not good, too flexy.

31.8 stem/bar combos, Saint/Hone or RF Evolve DH/Atlas, but the shifter thing,...hmmmm...get X.7 or X.9. Azonic Outlaw wheels, too.

Another good point I'll second -- a 200+ lb. weight weenie is a laugh riot! Be better off taking ex-lax the day before a ride for weight savings...but then, you'll FEEL flushed-out on the ride, too!
 

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digitalayon said:
Being a 350 plus clyde, I can honestly say there are extra rules for us. Now I have heard frame this and frame that....that's fine but I've broken some expensive parts in the past few years. My latest one was Shimano's SLX cranks and SLX shifters. One rule I have is.....unless you plan on going XTR or Race Face or some other 3rd party besides shimano, avoid the upper middle of shimano as much as possible. I have had some older LX and XT cranks in the past but they were heavier. However they were stronger. Nowdays I recommend for clyde in staying with XTR or Deore. They seem stronger than the ones between them. Even my Deore shifters on my commuter were better than the SLX. Also, Make sure your hubs are up to par that can handle your weight. For me, the WTB Speed Disk won this battle for value and price. I have friends that are clydes and they said their LX and SLX needed a repack about everyother ride. But I just think they are using cheap bearings.
cmon share more about your breakages??

err maybe your just a troll:nono:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What I meant by that was the SLX shifters have some light, thinner material than some of the older models. What happened was I up shifted at the same time I hit a huge root about 9 inches high. and I went flying. The damn thing was covered with leaves and I couldn't see it. Next thing I know when I got back on it, my crank was actually coming off and it mushroomed from there causing metal to flake away because I had stripped it. And I wasn't able to shift. Shimano said I broke a "Pivot Spindle" and "stretched the housing" whatever the hell that means. So yeah....now I have had worse wrecks. These shouldn't have went the way they did. But I came to the conclusion that weight on the parts means strength was shaved to make it lighter. Me being a clyde, I can't have that.
 

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bigpedaler said:
Ditto on the carbon, also ti is not good, too flexy.

31.8 stem/bar combos, Saint/Hone or RF Evolve DH/Atlas, but the shifter thing,...hmmmm...get X.7 or X.9. Azonic Outlaw wheels, too.

Another good point I'll second -- a 200+ lb. weight weenie is a laugh riot! Be better off taking ex-lax the day before a ride for weight savings...but then, you'll FEEL flushed-out on the ride, too!
there are intelligent places to save weight, even if you're a fat guy like me riding on the Shore. striking a good balance between strength and weight in your wheelset can make a significant difference to your ride.

But yes, carbon seatposts and ti spindled pedals probably aren't the best idea.
 

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digitalayon said:
What I meant by that was the SLX shifters have some light, thinner material than some of the older models. What happened was I up shifted at the same time I hit a huge root about 9 inches high. and I went flying. The damn thing was covered with leaves and I couldn't see it. Next thing I know when I got back on it, my crank was actually coming off and it mushroomed from there causing metal to flake away because I had stripped it. And I wasn't able to shift. Shimano said I broke a "Pivot Spindle" and "stretched the housing" whatever the hell that means. So yeah....now I have had worse wrecks. These shouldn't have went the way they did. But I came to the conclusion that weight on the parts means strength was shaved to make it lighter. Me being a clyde, I can't have that.
Thanks for sharing.
 

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For me I avoid XTR cassettes, I have bent a few rings on them just from climbing hard (and yes my chainline is correct). I also avoid any seatpost that isn't a Thomson because I have broken bolts on several other brands. Hollow pin chains are a definite no-no.

For me strong wheels are on the top of the list. Also UST tires have proven to be a great asset to me because the thicker sidewall keeps me from washing out in the corners and pinch flats are a thing of the past.
 

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I tend to think that a lot of this breaking of parts has to do with the skill of the rider more than the weight of the rider. That being said, my new bike is built like a tank. It's just not worth it to mess around with super lightweight parts when I'm 240.

bb
 

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XTR Cranks? No thanks. Nice, expensive, but not really any stiffer than XT, as far as I can tell. If you weigh 350 you should be thinking about Saints, Atlas, Gravitys or Deitys anyway.

Good suggestion on the Outlaws. I had some Rhynos and they were bulletproof (tho hard to change tires). And I'd prob avoid the WTB hubs (they seem to work well for the OP tho) and go with Kings or Hadleys.
 

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Tires with skinny sidewalls. I tear the sidewalls in them on rocks well before the tread wears out.

Im currently running Continental Diesel's Protection and so far the sidewalls are good as they have a netting in them. I have to run higher pressure though as they pinch flat with ease.

Avoid Manitou forks also.
 

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I tend to think that a lot of this breaking of parts has to do with the skill of the rider more than the weight of the rider
+1

Obviously weight has some impact, but I have rode carbon bars and seatposts since 2000 without any failures. In addition, I can ride standard XC rims and they hold up just fine under me. I'm 6' and average 220lbs, and ride aggressive XC. I have a friend who is 150lbs soaking wet who breaks everything riding the exact same trails.
 

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CEO Product Failure
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My $.02 is if you don't wanna break anything or experience any mechanical failures, get out of cycling. Maybe consider speed walking.

At 350lbs you are gonna break everything eventually. I have broken every conceiveable part not less than 3 times and I am about 100lbs less than you--and I was breaking this stuff when I was 150lbs less than you 15yrs ago. Everything breaks eventually.

Yes, XTR is better than SLR or Deore.
King is better than Chen Shin.
Stay off carbon frames and consider HT's until you get a little lighter.

FWIW, I "retired" the following parts in 2008:
4 sets of Time Alium mtb pedals
3 TruVativ Stylo BB/Crank combo's
2 rear CK ring drives
2 MTB frames
14 sets of Avid BB7 brake pads
2 SDG Bel Aire mtb saddles
1 XTR Shifter Pod

So long as you don't have to push your bike out to finish a ride, it's all good in my book.

-B
 

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bingemtbr said:
My $.02 is if you don't wanna break anything or experience any mechanical failures, get out of cycling. Maybe consider speed walking.

At 350lbs you are gonna break everything eventually. I have broken every conceiveable part not less than 3 times and I am about 100lbs less than you--and I was breaking this stuff when I was 150lbs less than you 15yrs ago. Everything breaks eventually.

Yes, XTR is better than SLR or Deore.
King is better than Chen Shin.
Stay off carbon frames and consider HT's until you get a little lighter.

FWIW, I "retired" the following parts in 2008:
4 sets of Time Alium mtb pedals
3 TruVativ Stylo BB/Crank combo's
2 rear CK ring drives
2 MTB frames
14 sets of Avid BB7 brake pads
2 SDG Bel Aire mtb saddles
1 XTR Shifter Pod

So long as you don't have to push your bike out to finish a ride, it's all good in my book.

-B
Yep- at that weight, everything needs to be STOUT....which is obviously expensive. Your other option is to "de-clyde" your weight, and see some longer life out of parts. I lost 70lbs, and rewarded myself with full XTR and XO. So far, nothing has failed yet. Knock on carbon!
 
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