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So after a few years of amateur bike repair, I finally gave in and bought a DAG-2. I can't really charge for this service unless the client specifically comes in for a crash, so Ive been winging it with a rigid 12 inch steel rule and a C-clamp and just eyeballing it to the cassette. Ive had very good results.

The start of this season has been good to me. A got a lot of pretty good jobs, mostly fork and shock rebuilds, which I am well tooled up for, am now able to do in very good time, which in turn makes decent dough.

So, I bought a few specialty tools, including the DAG-2.

I'm currently overhauling a couple of 70's road bikes/barn finds by a client, and I used the DAG-2. It turns out, its as finicky as my jerry rigged ruler. I can actually align a hanger faster with my eyeballing method.

Has anybody else noticed this? The o-ring marker couldve been better. A sliding marker with a knob wouldve been better as I have to move it out of the way when I go from one point to another.

Sheesh. A 70 dollar tool should be easier to use. I'll try using it by eyeballing the handle. Maybe that will easier.

Just ranting.
 

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I lost the o rings off mine and use my finger as a marker when sliding the stay in/out.The CVT and abbey tools seem to rotate out of the way if the stays which is cool, but I'd like to see a video of those in use before buying either. The dag is fast to use which is the main appeal for shops.

Don't be too perfectionist with it - if you can access 70% of the rim without retracting the stay, that's enough to infer the alignment.

- joel
 

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The bad thing is that it takes a fair bit of money to get a hanger alignment gauge that works significantly better than that. All of the options that are up to professional use are double what the Park version is. It takes a lot of little details to make that type of tool work well.

The hanger aligner really is a staple in bike repair though. You should use it often and charge accordingly. It's a great tool to troubleshoot shifting issues, especially on more modern drivetrains with tight gear spacing.

many years ago when I still used the DAG, I lost the feeler pin and the sliding lever to thread the tool onto the hanger. But a 5mm or T25 that you use to take the RD off works great to replace both of those parts. I liked using it that way better than having the intended parts.
 

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Unless the bike has a panier rack on it there is no need to move the stay when moving from one point of the rim to another. If you can take a measure from one point then to a point 180 Deg from that and use a third 90 deg from the other two you will be spot on. no need to move the marker to get around seat stays, fenders or racks.

one more point if you do not have a perfectly true rim use the vlave stem point on the wheel as your reference point in all three positions.
 
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