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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick questions:

I took delivery of my 04 Hollowpoint Sport last night, and after assembly, I noticed there is a small amount of play somewhere in the rear linkage, such that if you grab the seatpost and gently shake up and down, you can hear and feel a noticeable clicking, similar to the feeling you would get from loose head bearings. It seems that the looseness might be in the rear shock mount. Is this normal, or am I possibly missing a bushing? It seems to me that kind of looseness would not be normal.

Also, after mounting the front brake caliper and front wheel, the brake pads on the left drag. I tried the 're-centering' procedure in the instructions several times, but it still drags.

Any feedback or suggestions welcome. I can't wait to get this thing out on the trail (after I purchase a shock pump so I can set it up for my weight).

Jim
 

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SeamusCA said:
I took delivery of my 04 Hollowpoint Sport last night, and after assembly, I noticed there is a small amount of play somewhere in the rear linkage, such that if you grab the seatpost and gently shake up and down, you can hear and feel a noticeable clicking, similar to the feeling you would get from loose head bearings. It seems that the looseness might be in the rear shock mount. Is this normal, or am I possibly missing a bushing? It seems to me that kind of looseness would not be normal.
There are a couple of different things it may be. I suspect it to be a loose pivot bolt somewhere. It's best to go over each bolt again and check tightness. Also check that your rear brake mount and rotor bolts are tight. This can give you a similar feeling (at least if you are holding the r brake while doing that little test). If you are unable to diagnose the problem I'd suggest having an IBD check it out. We have any needed parts here at Iron Horse in the event that a part was missing or otherwise bogarted.

SeamusCA said:
Also, after mounting the front brake caliper and front wheel, the brake pads on the left drag. I tried the 're-centering' procedure in the instructions several times, but it still drags.
Check that the pads are fully retracted. This is generally the cause of dragging/centering problems. Remove box pads and using the box end of a 10mm wrench, push the pistons back in. Be careful NOT to push the pin that holds the pad so not to break it off. Then, eye ball the centering of the brake when putting it back on the bike.

-ska todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Found the problem

Todd,

Here's one of the problems. I disassembled the rear shock mount, and these two bushings are loose in their interface in the shock, and the bolt that runs through them is loose inside them as well. They appear to be machined (poorly) out of some low-grade aluminum. I'm kind of surprised to find a part like this in the suspension linkage. Can you tell me how I can get these replaced?

Jim
 

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Industry Loudmouth
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SeamusCA said:
Here's one of the problems. I disassembled the rear shock mount, and these two bushings are loose in their interface in the shock, and the bolt that runs through them is loose inside them as well. They appear to be machined (poorly) out of some low-grade aluminum. I'm kind of surprised to find a part like this in the suspension linkage. Can you tell me how I can get these replaced?
Jim,

The reducers you show are provided to Iron Horse by Manitou with their OEM shocks. Your local shop can get new reducers by calling either Manitou or Iron Horse.

ps...The sizing needed is 24mm X 8mm. Manitou reducers are not the same size as Fox, Progressive, Romic, etc. Manitou is 12mm ID, others are 1/2".

-ska todd
 

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ska todd said:
There are a couple of different things it may be. I suspect it to be a loose pivot bolt somewhere. It's best to go over each bolt again and check tightness.

-ska todd
Speaking of loose pivot bolts, I have been going over the bolts on my HP Sport after every ride and notice that it's not uncommon for one or tow to loosen up during the course of a ride. Would it be advisable to hit these bolts with a little blue loctite?
 

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Pivot Bolt Torque Settings

ska todd said:
Feel free to use blue locktite on the pivot and shock bolts of the Hollowpoints or SGS's.

-ska todd.
Thanks for the feedback Todd! One more question, are torque settings available for the suspension pivot bolts? I'd like to make sure I have them tight enough, but not too tight...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Poor tolerances!

I dug out my digital caliper and took some measurements of one of the reducers. ID was 8.04mm, OD of the 'shoulder' was 11.43mm. No wonder there is so much play.

Answer is supposed to be getting me new reducers and a 'DU' bushing for the shock. On backorder (of course). :(

Jim <--- got HP, can't ride.
 

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SeamusCA said:
I dug out my digital caliper and took some measurements of one of the reducers. ID was 8.04mm, OD of the 'shoulder' was 11.43mm. No wonder there is so much play.

Answer is supposed to be getting me new reducers and a 'DU' bushing for the shock. On backorder (of course). :(

Jim <--- got HP, can't ride.
Jim,

Sorry about the poor tolerances and Answer's backorder situation. Drop Bruce a call at 800-645-5477 ext 209 to see if we have any in stock.

-ska todd
 

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OldTeen
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ska todd said:
Factory torque recommendations are as follows:

M4 bolt = 80 Kgf-cm
M5 bolt = 120 Kgf-cm
M6 bolt = 150 Kgf-cm
M8 bolt = 180 Kgf-cm

-ska todd
Todd-

Any suggestions on getting to the two suspension pivot bolts which are partially hidden behind the chainrings? It would seem you have to pull the driveline side crank to access them.
 

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OldTeen said:
Any suggestions on getting to the two suspension pivot bolts which are partially hidden behind the chainrings? It would seem you have to pull the driveline side crank to access them.
Sometimes you can get a ball head allen in there. Sometimes you can't. I'd definately suggest blue locktite for those particular bolts so you don't have to pull your cranks as often.

-ska todd
 
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