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Low mounting must not be a concern for most folks though. I sell way, way more standard GoPro adapters than the LoPro version. I also did the LoPro adapter for Ituo lights in a flip/flop style so it could be low or extra low. Most pics I've seen of folks using them do not have them in the extra low position.
Does this look better? Do you have the lopro option for all lights?

Product Machine Carbon Silver Steel
 

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Does this look better? Do you have the lopro option for all lights?

View attachment 1245735
Yep. Was gonna ask you if the extra low position worked with that Ituo mount.

The LoPro adapter is available for....

all the Ituo XP series
Gemini Duo
Yinding
Solarstorm X2 and X3

There has not been enough demand for me to design and build LoPro versions for any other lights. I have sold a small number of undrilled LoPro adapters so the buyers could modify as needed to fit their particular light.

This kind of circles back to Outbound's thread and why I posted earlier that while some users would appreciate a lower profile mounting, I don't see it being anywhere near a majority. I think the mounting design Outbound posted earlier for his new self-contained light will satisfy most potential buyers.
 

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@ Outbound : I'm still waiting for that mountain bike light of yours to offer a more NW beam tint. That said gotta have a remote, wired or otherwise as well. If the Raveman lights were offered in NW I might not have posted this comment but than again I tend to favor bar lamps with separate battery packs over self contained lamps when I MTB.
 

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Anyone interested in an OB Trail Edition with a bit of scuffing on the top from the bike being flipped over? Probably 30h of use. I ride desert and a lot of its beam is being lost, so I got the road edition on the bars and a traditional spot beam on the helmet to get the throw I need for trail riding. Figure someone who rides in dense canopy will enjoy riding terrain in which things are possibly brighter than it is during the day, with this OB Trail Ed.

I also got a L&M Taz 2000 still fresh in package, which I chose the OB Road over (for run time). Doubt anyone would want it though, cause it's 290 MSRP. More of a pocketable commuter light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #805 ·
I'm with these comments. Early in my night riding days, I caught a high mounted light on a tree branch. No fun. I like and use very low mounting for my helmet lights.

Low mounting must not be a concern for most folks though. I sell way, way more standard GoPro adapters than the LoPro version. I also did the LoPro adapter for Ituo lights in a flip/flop style so it could be low or extra low. Most pics I've seen of folks using them do not have them in the extra low position.

Having a low option on this new Outbound light would appeal to some users, but I'd guess not enough to warrant the extra work to provide it. Low mounting makes a light not work with some helmets that have integral GoPro mounts. They typically are at the very top of the helmet and won't allow some lights with low mounting to be aimed down far enough.

There may be some issue with tool design for casting the housing that makes a low mounting less manufacturable. On my GoPro adapters there is extra machining with a smallish tool that must be done to make it work. That adds time which is why they cost more despite using a smaller piece of raw material.

Outbound has some lofty specification and performance goals for this new light. Even with it's somewhat high profile (not as high as many other helmet lights though) if it hits most of the performance and specification goals, it will be a very nice light.
You almost hit the nail on the head. It's a challenge for manufacturing with the way the case is developed, plus for those that have mounts right on the top of the helmet it is tougher to aim. However I will see what we can do to get it a little lower profile. It's an enormous difference over the primary target competitor, the NR Lumina and L&M Urban. This is why I like leaking some info and get some feedback quick before we commit to tooling.

I've got some ideas now on how to keep the form factor yet get that lower profile. This light also has the goal of being extremely high quality feeling and durable. Overmolded features to make it IP67 rated, as well as feeling like a GoPro Hero 7 in terms of quality, just not as heavy. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #806 ·
@ Outbound : I'm still waiting for that mountain bike light of yours to offer a more NW beam tint. That said gotta have a remote, wired or otherwise as well. If the Raveman lights were offered in NW I might not have posted this comment but than again I tend to favor bar lamps with separate battery packs over self contained lamps when I MTB.
Unfortunately won't be able to offer a whiter light anytime soon. A remote is something that we are also looking into. Something a little different from what others are doing too, but that's still early on.
 

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Unfortunately won't be able to offer a whiter light anytime soon. A remote is something that we are also looking into. Something a little different from what others are doing too, but that's still early on.
Uh...that wasn't what I was asking about. NW or Neutral White is less white than what you are using. Not sure if the LED array you use comes in any other tint but if it did there is a market for NW MTB lights. Specifically, something in the 4500K range would be awesome. Got to have remotes.
 

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Night Darkness Grass family Lens flare Midnight

- Road edition's cutoff

Wheel Nature Bicycle tire Mode of transport Bicycle frame

- I'm the one fooling around in the back

Nature Atmosphere Atmospheric phenomenon Darkness Light

- my personal light carpet (XP3 is giving me that little circle beyond the OB Road Ed)

Itou's tint is a bit yellower's than OB's, but seems to mix well for my needs. Looks like OB's personal promise that they gave me in their chat, that it would be the last light I buy, fell through. Feeling better about this newer setup, compared to the DH package.

Honestly, the XP3 would probably be close to enough by itself, but I'm comparing ~1200 lumen lights to a 2300 lumen one:

Nature Atmosphere Atmospheric phenomenon Darkness World
 

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Discussion Starter · #809 ·
Uh...that wasn't what I was asking about. NW or Neutral White is less white than what you are using. Not sure if the LED array you use comes in any other tint but if it did there is a market for NW MTB lights. Specifically, something in the 4500K range would be awesome. Got to have remotes.
Reason I thought was wanting whiter is that these are warmer than lights from L&M, B&M, and the typical cheaper stuff. For example this is the B&M Ixon at the same distance from the wall as the road edition:

Atmosphere Light Sunlight Sun Photography

View attachment 1245998

The Altilon starts out on the lower end of the 5000k spectrum (closer to cool white), and then when it passes the reflector and through the lens it gets knocked down to the mid 4000's (closer to warm white). But the Altilon chip itself doesn't get any warmer since it's automotive qualified, so won't be able to go any warmer either.

Changing up chips for the new light, so will have a wider spread of stuff to choose frome, but will still be looking to match the tint of the Trail so that it's seamless with existing lights.
 

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Subscribing to this thread for the self-contained light data. Been a big fan of the Exposure Diablo but their QA has been falling behind a bit with the past few lights and the pricing is no longer competitive.
I agree on the Exposure lights. The other big dawg is the Lupine lights. They are outstanding as well but sickly expensive.
 

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Subscribing to this thread for the self-contained light data. Been a big fan of the Exposure Diablo but their QA has been falling behind a bit with the past few lights and the pricing is no longer competitive.
It sounds like OL is going in the right direction but I'll put in some wishlist items:
- Keep it simple. No tap crap, no auto-dimming, no crazy programmable crap. No crazy button sequence to make it turn on or off.
- Optimized for 2+ hour burn time.
- 2 settings. High and Low w/o low being as low as mechanically possible.
- Some sort of battery meter
- Ability to plug in an external battery as a just in case.
 

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It sounds like OL is going in the right direction but I'll put in some wishlist items:
- Keep it simple. No tap crap, no auto-dimming, no crazy programmable crap. No crazy button sequence to make it turn on or off.
- Optimized for 2+ hour burn time.
- 2 settings. High and Low w/o low being as low as mechanically possible.
- Some sort of battery meter
- Ability to plug in an external battery as a just in case.
My wish list is even simpler
I want good high and low beam like a car with a simple switch or remote next to my hand grips to accomplish this. Why do I have to cycle through 97 modes to get to $&@?! Modes that are actually useful. High low just like a car it isn't hard.

Edit: this isn't a complaint with your light (I don't own one yet) it's just with every light I have tried.
 

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The Altilon starts out on the lower end of the 5000k spectrum (closer to cool white), and then when it passes the reflector and through the lens it gets knocked down to the mid 4000's (closer to warm white). But the Altilon chip itself doesn't get any warmer since it's automotive qualified, so won't be able to go any warmer either.

Changing up chips for the new light, so will have a wider spread of stuff to choose frome, but will still be looking to match the tint of the Trail so that it's seamless with existing lights.
For me the smooth/even beam coverage you get with the OB lights improves overall visibility as does using a warmer tint but in a different way. I do really like NW tint for solo off-road riding but for riding in groups and anything paved I think the tint of your current lights is a better compromise. That said think the new light should as close as possible match the emitter tint of your other lights. Thanks for the updates. New light design looking good so far!
Mole
 

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Discussion Starter · #815 ·
Alright took your advice and modified the mount location a bit. Doesn't look too bad! :thumbsup:

Line Black Rectangle Black-and-white Illustration


The prototypes that will be used for functional testing will be of the older design. They have been machined from magnesium to test for thermal loads to best simulate the actual die cast material. Those should be arriving in a few days.

Might notice another feature, the hood. This was requested from some people based on some feedback of the previous lights. Not really necessary for helmet mounting, but if people mount it on their handlebars, it will be nice to keep the light out of their eyes when climbing.
 

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My wish list is even simpler
I want good high and low beam like a car with a simple switch or remote next to my hand grips to accomplish this. Why do I have to cycle through 97 modes to get to $&@?! Modes that are actually useful. High low just like a car it isn't hard.

Edit: this isn't a complaint with your light (I don't own one yet) it's just with every light I have tried.
I agree with this. I pretty much want full output or low output. I generally don't use the mid-brightness modes.

I have had mixed opinions on a remote. This past fall/winter was my first real night riding season and now I get it. I think a wireless remote that can control the bar light and helmet light simultaneously would be pretty useful.
 

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Fo a helmet light, I like 3 levels. Low and High for riding, and an extra low that requires some extra action to enable, in other words, not part of the normal switching from low to high and back to low. The extra low level is useful for light to fix a mechanical or flat or read the map. IME, a low level that is good for riding is too bright for fixing or map reading.
 

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My wish list is even simpler
I want good high and low beam like a car with a simple switch or remote next to my hand grips to accomplish this. Why do I have to cycle through 97 modes to get to $&@?! Modes that are actually useful. High low just like a car it isn't hard.

Edit: this isn't a complaint with your light (I don't own one yet) it's just with every light I have tried.
Even better ( for a road version ) would be just two modes as you suggest but that the two modes be user programmable so you have the exact output you want for both modes. The advantage of this is that ( for longer rides ) you can choose to use outputs that can extend run time.
 

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Even better ( for a road version ) would be just two modes as you suggest but that the two modes be user programmable so you have the exact output you want for both modes. The advantage of this is that ( for longer rides ) you can choose to use outputs that can extend run time.
I like this idea. Although to be honest I really only need one programmable and one high beam (so bright it melts the road). Couple that with a good easy to operate helmet light for when I hit the gravel/double track, which I do as mush as possible. Crunchy roads are the best roads.
 
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