[245044]

I know I can't be the only person that feels this way about these outboard bearing style cranks. I tried them, RF Douche, when they came out and went through BB's like they grew on trees.

I have the Truvativ cranks on my new Stumpjumper and although I have not had any bearing problems, the drag of these things is noticable over my old Shimano cranks on my Kona.

I'm curious to hear of others experiences with this style crank, pro or con.

 

[kev1n]

I've been running RF Deus for quite some time and love 'em. Smoother/less resistance than the truvative ISIS I had before, and much lighter.

 

[POG]

I was initially...

I know I can't be the only person that feels this way about these outboard bearing style cranks. I tried them, RF Douche, when they came out and went through BB's like they grew on trees.

I have the Truvativ cranks on my new Stumpjumper and although I have not had any bearing problems, the drag of these things is noticable over my old Shimano cranks on my Kona.

I'm curious to hear of others experiences with this style crank, pro or con.

disappointed with the xtr m960 bearings because they seemed to get contaminated quickly and they aren't really serviceable. I think they improved the plastic shim/seal in later production because I haven't had any problems with the replacements. That said, when they do need to be replaced I have purchased a replacement bearing kit from enduro seals. About one third the price of stock and hopefully a higher quality bearing. I think they will work on RF as well. I believe there is a thread about them posted below.

 

[Psycho Mike]

I'm running a Bontrager stamped Truvative Fire (GXP) in my Gary Fisher Cake. They are stockers, but I found them a heck of a lot better in feel, squeak and flex (I'm a clyde) than the Shimano square taper BB and cranks I had before.

I haven't had to service them yet, so I can't comment there, but thus far the experience has been good.

 

[racerzero]

I know I can't be the only person that feels this way about these outboard bearing style cranks. I tried them, RF Douche, when they came out and went through BB's like they grew on trees.

I have the Truvativ cranks on my new Stumpjumper and although I have not had any bearing problems, the drag of these things is noticable over my old Shimano cranks on my Kona.

I'm curious to hear of others experiences with this style crank, pro or con.

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikebottombrackets.htm

 

[be350ka]

I have had good luck with mine. One thing that can cause the bearings to degrade faster than usual is when you tighten the preload cap too much. This should be tightened to a very light 4-6 inch pounds.

Check this out for servicing you cups
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=136309

 

[Jaybo]

I am not a huge fan....

I know I can't be the only person that feels this way about these outboard bearing style cranks. I tried them, RF Douche, when they came out and went through BB's like they grew on trees.

I have the Truvativ cranks on my new Stumpjumper and although I have not had any bearing problems, the drag of these things is noticable over my old Shimano cranks on my Kona.

I'm curious to hear of others experiences with this style crank, pro or con.

However, I have the XT outboard crankset and have had zero problems with the bearings. Nonetheless, I'm not super sold on 'em. I think the Octalink is the cat's meow. I get knee pain at times that I attribute to my feet being wider. They are simple to take on and off, which is cool and easy. Stiffness difference is a laugher. I can't feel any difference.

Jaybo

 

[245044]

Hey. Thanks for the replies so far. I have to say that the stiffness is a BS story cooked up to sell cranks. I'm a clyde as well and NEVER had a crank or bearing problem until this new design came out. I'm hoping the Truvativ crank on my Stumpy does better than the RF did.

 

[crashomatic]

outboard BB

check out the link to peter verdone, good info, the shimano BBs are far better to the race face and fsa. the truvativ seem to hold up ok but ive seen more of the rf and fsa. i detest shimano for the most part but when you need a good BB they are the one to go to aside from boutique manufacturers.
all out board bearing BBs are interchangeable as far as i know.
if you own race face, get the steel bolt for the cranks. they are in the distributors as diabolus. this has solved many creaking issues for me. the alloy bolt is a poor use for Al.

 

[bsaunder]

no problems here - wore out the stock octalink in my stumpy FSR in ~500miles. RF Atlas is doing great ~1500miles later - and I'm a Clyde at 215-235 lbs that generally prefers brute force to finesse.

On my road bike I've yet to have an Isis BB last more than 1500 miles and I spin circles there pretty well, rather than mashing which I tend to do more on my mtn bike - will probbaly go outboard for road too in the next month as my current bb is about to give up.

 

[rocpyro]

I can accept all shortcomings because of the stiffness.

 

[massmang]

I have the FSA megaExo V drive cranks.. so far so good... without the chain on if I give the cranks a spin they will turn about 10 times before stopping.. No water gets inside the bottom bracket..

like someone said earlier over tightening of the adjusment bolt is probably responsible for most people not liking the outbound bottom bracket.

It is a superior design. Larger bearings, and further from the center of the bottom bracket..

 

[watermoccasin]

Outboard bearings are the best thing going right now. Until the industry adopts a larger and more appropriate bottom bracket shell size, they are the best we've got.

The old square tapers had reliable bearings, but the spindles and interface aren't strong enough for heavy-duty riding. ISIS was an awful change, I went through several bottom brackets per bike per year with that. With outboard bearings, I get at least a season out of a BB, and the Enduro rebuild kit is awesome - larger bearings and no plastic garbage between the spindle and the bearings.

The biggest killer of bottom brackets, especially outboard bearing bottom brackets, is not having a drain hole in the bottom of the bottom bracket shell on the bike frame. Water and grit get in there, and if they can't get out, they will ruin your bearings.

Excess drag means you have too many spacers between the bb and spindle.

 

[Bikinfoolferlife]

While I'm still on mostly square tapers, I did get an XT 760 crank on my Nomad while on a road trip last fall when a Cook Bros crank developed an incurable creak. So far so good, and I just checked the bearings and they're as smooth as day one. Bonus is how simple they are to take off and put back on. I haven't subjected them to a whole lot of wet and muck, tho. Stiffness I can't tell the difference, guess I'm not sensitive that way. (I'm sure all those road pros weren't really satisfied with their crank stiffness while winning races on their Campy square tapers all these years ). While I'm glad of a different standard, I hate the way Shimano stopped supplying the higher quality square tapers for all those cranks that work just fine with them (guess Octalink cranks will get the same treatment eventually).

 

[S-Works]

I know I can't be the only person that feels this way about these outboard bearing style cranks. I tried them, RF Douche, when they came out and went through BB's like they grew on trees.

I have the Truvativ cranks on my new Stumpjumper and although I have not had any bearing problems, the drag of these things is noticable over my old Shimano cranks on my Kona.

I'm curious to hear of others experiences with this style crank, pro or con.

Get the Enduro bearing/seal kit. Works better than OEM.

 

[totally_fixxated]

Pw

phil wood kit soon, tool available now.