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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got kinda bored with skiing and took up boarding last year.
What is a good binding position for stability at speed?
I was riding in duck feet position, about +12/-12 front/rear, but doesn't seem comfortable as my speed increases.
I'd like to be able to ride as fast as I was skiing before so I won't be tempted to switch back to skis for the speed runs with other skiers.
Would more forward angle of bindings help with faster speed?
 

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how fast were you skiing before? If you were really f'in fast it's never going to happen unless you have a deathwish, skiing is just easier to do faster and has a higher top speed.

Duck is great for switch and tricks but if you are just riding the same direction try pointing both bindings that way, try some hard boots and bindings and an alpine board!

Snowboarding is about cruising, flow through the trees, floatin in the powpow, jibbin, etc but if you want speed I'd suggest sticking to skiing. I used to ski and started boarding 15 years ago, it's slower but way more fun for me.
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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in short, more forward positioning provides more stability at speed, especially since you're fairly new to riding. 'Duck-footing' while comfortable just standing and useful for swapping between normal and 'switch, it's' less stable at speed than a traditional binding placement. A zero degree in the rear will probably help out in that respect. Also your fore and aft positioning on the board will have an effect as well, especially when it comes to the deep stuff.

For starters I would recommend the generic 0 and 15 degree foot placement and fudge the bindings a bit to the tail (aft position). Then, It's really trial and error after that. (try not to go above 20 degrees total difference - much more than that and your knees and hips will start to suffer.

When I started riding (waaay back in 1987 :p ), the boards and binding positions were very limited by today's standard - so dialing in position didn't take to long since you had few options. Nowadays there's almost unlimited positioning; fore / aft , heel / toe, l / r degrees - it's kind of daunting.

To really get your position dialed-in, I'd advise you to go and 'waste' a day up on the mountain. Take a big Phillips driver(or what ever your binding screws need) and find your self a long, groomed cruiser run. Ride down for a bit linking turns, riding straight, at high and low-speed. etc. Stop (this is where it becomes evident in 'wasting' a day - but it's well worth it in the long run) and unbuckle, then move the binding forward or back (nose to tail). Clip in and take off again - do your turns, high/low-speed blah bla bla.. and stop again. Repeat ad nauseam.

Make a note on what's workin. Do the same with the 'degrees' one binding at a time after you get your fore /aft dialed. Also some heel-toe adjustments can be made (move toward whichever turns are more difficult - ie. if heel-turns are harder than toe - move towards heel), but usually to start, a centered position will work.

After you're dialed on the groomer, find something steeper or bumpier and tweak your settings there too. At anytime throughout that day anything feels weird, STOP and ADJUST. By the day is over you'll be in good condition (bindings anyway) and next time you can leave that damned screwdriver in the car !

hit me up w/ any more questions / clarifications
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Longman - I skied about 50 mph or so, carving big radius turns, and doubt i'd go as fast on the board any time soon.

highdell - thanks much for the tips on "wasted day", I do have a snowboard specific pocket toolkit that will finally serve it's purpose!
I will try the +15/0 first and go from there this weekend.
 

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I set up rental boards on a daily basis, typically I set the back foot at about 3-6 and the front 12-15 depending on the customers preference.
 

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Strafer- If you have the need for speed on a board, there's another thing to consider besides the bindings....the base.

Sintered bases (found on better boards) are faster than extruded bases. Extruded bases are cheaper to produce but are very dense and therefore do not allow as much wax to penetrate into the base. Sintered bases vary on the molecular size of whatever has been used to create the base. Larger molecular size means larger area between molecules and more room for the base to absorb wax. You'll usually see a number like 4400 or 6500 or 7200 describing molecular size (the larger the better). I ride an Arbor with a sintered base and after I wax and texture the board, it can too fast (almost).

Sorry to get away from your question, though. I like +12 up front an 0 in the back, but that's just me. I agree with wasting a day with your screwdriver, just try to pick a day without subzero temps. Your fingers will thank you. And I wouldn't stray to far towards the back of the deck...just like skis you execute your turns in the front, if you're in the back surfing around, your effective edges won't contact the slope and you're asking for trouble.

And forget about "rub-on" wax. Its a waste of money, time and energy (unless its Turtle Wax and you're putting it on your car).

{Steps down off of his soapbox}
 

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Strafer said:
Got kinda bored with skiing and took up boarding last year.
What is a good binding position for stability at speed?
I was riding in duck feet position, about +12/-12 front/rear, but doesn't seem comfortable as my speed increases.
I'd like to be able to ride as fast as I was skiing before so I won't be tempted to switch back to skis for the speed runs with other skiers.
Would more forward angle of bindings help with faster speed?
I agree with the others to start with +15 front 0 rear and tweak from there. I played with a lot of stances, including some rather aggressively forward (+40/+25 with 3-strap bindings), and found +15 / -3 to work the best for me.

Also, pay attention to your fore-aft position. You will have better control on packed/groomed snow with a more centered stance, whereas powder calls for more tip and less tail.
 

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~Disc~Golf~
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*Shameless Snowboard Porn*

My Burton T-6 w/ Flows - Hell Yeah!!
(bindings at -3 and 13)

nice kitty graphic

custom 'mud flap girl' stickers I made
TOP

BOTTOM ;)

My Flow boots leave sperm impressions :p
 

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No known cure
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Saw the thread and had to check my bindings since I set them for feel and never looked to see what the were. Both the powder board and the all mountain board are set at 9/9, mimicing my surfing stance. I also run the bindings as far back as I can for snow surfing. I'm old and stay out of the park.
 

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I have been snowboarding for 22+ years and skateboarded just as long. I used to run something similar to what is the recommended starting point. I now run 0 and 0 with about 1" setback from center. I find no reason to run any angle other than zero. It makes it super easy to ride switch and I believe edge to edge transfer for caving is maximized. I really don't get duck stances that are spaced so wide apart. It forces the rider to bow their legs and throws the stance off. It just seems unnatural. Carving is def hindered but I know it helps for spins and rails. I recommend that new riders jump on the board on the floor and hop up and down a few times and find a comfortable stable stance.
Then measure center of foot to center of foot to get stance width (maybe add an inch) and take notice of foot angle. Most riders who do this have angles from 0 to 5 degrees. Angling you foot does nothing for stability IMO.

Oh and I am a super fast rider but I can never catch my buddy who tele's but I pass him all the time on long cat tracks. Go figure!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Doh! might help if I mentioned what board I'm riding.
It's a K2 El Dorado with blue, white and red stripes, guessing 2006 model.
I've already upgraded both bindings and boots with K2 07 Cinch CTX and Burton ion boots.
Anyone know if El Dorado is a good board? This would be for Eastern, so mostly frozen groomed or spring mush.
 

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Strafer said:
Doh! might help if I mentioned what board I'm riding.
It's a K2 El Dorado with blue, white and red stripes, guessing 2006 model.
I've already upgraded both bindings and boots with K2 07 Cinch CTX and Burton ion boots.
Anyone know if El Dorado is a good board? This would be for Eastern, so mostly frozen groomed or spring mush.
What size is it and how tall are you and weight?
The El Do is a classic board that goes back over a decade. It's a good ride. Mostly all mountain and powder I believe. It's not a freestyle board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
wormvine said:
What size is it and how tall are you and weight?
The El Do is a classic board that goes back over a decade. It's a good ride. Mostly all mountain and powder I believe. It's not a freestyle board.
The board is 159cm, I'm 5'11" and 170 lbs.
So is the board good for the conditions I mentioned?
I like it so far, but I haven't ridden other boards so have nothing to compare with.
 

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Strafer said:
The board is 159cm, I'm 5'11" and 170 lbs.
So is the board good for the conditions I mentioned?
I like it so far, but I haven't ridden other boards so have nothing to compare with.
I don't see why not. I am 5'8" and weigh 180lbs and have had boards ranging from 156 to 161 for all day riding. I currently run a 156 and my last board was a 158. The 159 should be a good match for you as far as I'm concerned. It's a good all around board. Keep the edges sharp for the Eastern hardpack.
 

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@ wormvine - I was reading about you skatin'... I myself started a a year and two before ridin'...I don't do anything hard core nowadays, but definitely still skate ..I just went out for a quick sesh in front of my house and paid attention to my feet ( i pretty much knew before) - same as my binding stance more or less -- :)
I've tried the 'duck' for a bit - way to 'spinny',,,went to -3 +3 for a while longer (pretty much similar to your stance) and I found it pretty comfortable, but my front foot just felt even better with a more aggressive stance at high speed - meh...what ever works
I will say to 'spazzy' that my stance is definitely not narrow...nor am I doin' the splits... I suspect you're just used to lookin at the shorter park/jib board setup
 

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wormvine said:
I don't see why not. I am 5'8" and weigh 180lbs and have had boards ranging from 156 to 161 for all day riding. I currently run a 156 and my last board was a 158. The 159 should be a good match for you as far as I'm concerned. It's a good all around board. Keep the edges sharp for the Eastern hardpack.
I agree..
AND to add...Match your waxes!! Ice to slush/spring changes your ride dramatically

*edit
here's kind of a guide at Toko's Site...I get mine from the LSS? (local snowboard shop) but you can get an idea of the color 'codes'--blue=coooold - (they are tougher to for hard, scraping snow) to --yellow=warm - (added ingredients to combat water friction such as silicone or flouro-carbon)
http://www.toko.ch/en/productOvervi...l;jsessionid=6CC900EE5F89C332CF1E02AA6B28A89C
 

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highdelll said:
I agree..
AND to add...Match your waxes!! Ice to slush/spring changes your ride dramatically
Yes the proper wax is an important point. I was wishing I waxed my board the other day when it was Zero (0) on the mountain Sunday. The snow was like styrofoam and sticky as hell.
 
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