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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I might be looking to get a road bike and according to the Wrench Science calculator I should ride a 62 or 63cm bike centre to top or a 59cm centre to centre bike with a overall reach of 71.305cm. Since most manufacturers sizes are either 60 or 63cn I was wondering which would be the better size to go with - no I can't test ride them to see which fits better.

My thinking is if I get the 63cm and it's a bit too big I can always move the saddle forward on the rails and/or move the HB back with a shorter stem. However if I go with a 60cm and it's too short it will be harder to extend the cockpit since I'm sposed to be towards the 62/63 cm side and would end up with a super long stem and saddle on a setback post maybe.

Unlike a MTB I don't see the need to have super fast reaction on the road as opposed to the trail and would tend to favour a bigger bike with a slightly shortened cockpit. BTW my measurements are 35 1/4" inseam, 6'2.25".
Won't be using the bike for racing just training, as right now I'm on a 27lb rigid MTB w/ slicks.
 

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Linoleum Knife
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LyNx said:
according to the Wrench Science calculator I should ride a 62 or 63cm bike centre to top or a 59cm centre to centre bike with a overall reach of 71.305cm.
Go talk to your bike shop.

LyNx said:
My thinking is if I get the 63cm and it's a bit too big I can always move the saddle forward on the rails and/or move the HB back with a shorter stem. However if I go with a 60cm and it's too short it will be harder to extend the cockpit since I'm sposed to be towards the 62/63 cm side and would end up with a super long stem and saddle on a setback post maybe.
Go talk to your bike shop.

LyNx said:
Unlike a MTB I don't see the need to have super fast reaction on the road as opposed to the trail and would tend to favour a bigger bike with a slightly shortened cockpit. BTW my measurements are 35 1/4" inseam, 6'2.25".
Won't be using the bike for racing just training, as right now I'm on a 27lb rigid MTB w/ slicks.
Go talk to your bike shop.

Seriously.

Fit on a road bike is a lot harder to dial in than a mountain bike. On your first purchase, you should deal with a knowlegeable & reputable bike shop to make sure you:
1) Buy the right bike
2) Get it fit correctly

I didn't. It took me about a year of being miserable on the wrong size road bike before sucking in my ego and talking to their fit-expert.

At your height, you may need to start looking in the realm of custom bikes, where professional advice is even more important.

And re: reaction time? Try avoiding potholes at 50mph. Try dodging pedestrians and cars at 30. You want a responsive bike.
 

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LyNx said:
I might be looking to get a road bike and according to the Wrench Science calculator I should ride a 62 or 63cm bike centre to top or a 59cm centre to centre bike with a overall reach of 71.305cm. Since most manufacturers sizes are either 60 or 63cn I was wondering which would be the better size to go with - no I can't test ride them to see which fits better.

Road bike fit is CRITICAL. I am 6'4", and would ride a 61-63cm frame. I think that the 63 will ALWAYS feel tall to you.

My thinking is if I get the 63cm and it's a bit too big I can always move the saddle forward on the rails and/or move the HB back with a shorter stem. However if I go with a 60cm and it's too short it will be harder to extend the cockpit since I'm sposed to be towards the 62/63 cm side and would end up with a super long stem and saddle on a setback post maybe.

Moving the saddle on the rails to adjust the TT length is a HORRIBLE idea. THe reason we can move the saddle at all is to properly center our weight over the cranks, not o adjust the TT length. THat is a great way to knee problems. Seriously. I do bike fits for a living.

Unlike a MTB I don't see the need to have super fast reaction on the road as opposed to the trail and would tend to favour a bigger bike with a slightly shortened cockpit. BTW my measurements are 35 1/4" inseam, 6'2.25".
Won't be using the bike for racing just training, as right now I'm on a 27lb rigid MTB w/ slicks.
You have no idea yet how important a responsive bike is going to be. IMO EVERYONE needs to buy their first good road bike from a VERY knowledgeable (sp?) shop. But, hey, what do I know. I only do this for a living.

Spend the money with me, or your knee doctor. Your choice. You said it yourself. You are going to be using it for training. How many miles are you talking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SO I should go to our very reputable bike shop in town then, the very same one that knows what they're doing - yet they sold a girl that's 5'6" a 56cm road bike "'cause it's the right size and they just happen to have one on stock", then when I go in and give them her measurements annonymously they tell me they think she'd ride a 52-53 - Don't think so. Other than that I don't have the cash to fly to the US to get a custom fit.

So once again I ask some advice from you guys who I definitely trust more than the local shop. I ride a 22"/XL Trance and a XL Specialzed RockHopper rigid w/ semi-slicks I use for the road, would you say a 63cm bike and work with the cockpit or a 60cm and try from there?
 

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Yummy
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If your LBS isn't reliable, maybe look for a bike fit professional in your area? There are often bike fitters that know how to take measurements, apply the formulae and make a few 'black magic' decisions who aren't affiliated with bike shops. You probably have a better chance locating one through a local cycling club than using your LBS or yellow pages.

Kn.
 

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Old man on a bike
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What precludes you from looking at bikes other than just 60 or 63 sizes? There are lots of other choices. Moving your seat forward to compensate for cockpit isn't a great idea unless that's where your seat needs to be; the seat should be positioned for ideal knee/pedal interface; likewise the longer stem should be used to tune the cockpit for your upper body. Road bikes are definitely something to look at more carefully in terms of sizing than a mountain bike as your position is more fixed than on a mountain bike. Looking at custom bikes are another possibility (and they're probably not as expensive as you think), you're kind of on the large size for lots of stock big brand bikes.
 

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60 then.

If it has to be that way, it has to be.

I feel that a 63 is too big, but ultimately, you are going down a rough road.

Get together with a local cycling club, and see if you can try a couple of bikes in the sizes you are looking for.
 

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Can Tree Member
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LyNx said:
I might be looking to get a road bike and according to the Wrench Science calculator I should ride a 62 or 63cm bike centre to top or a 59cm centre to centre bike with a overall reach of 71.305cm. Since most manufacturers sizes are either 60 or 63cn I was wondering which would be the better size to go with - no I can't test ride them to see which fits better.

My thinking is if I get the 63cm and it's a bit too big I can always move the saddle forward on the rails and/or move the HB back with a shorter stem. However if I go with a 60cm and it's too short it will be harder to extend the cockpit since I'm sposed to be towards the 62/63 cm side and would end up with a super long stem and saddle on a setback post maybe.

Unlike a MTB I don't see the need to have super fast reaction on the road as opposed to the trail and would tend to favour a bigger bike with a slightly shortened cockpit. BTW my measurements are 35 1/4" inseam, 6'2.25".
Won't be using the bike for racing just training, as right now I'm on a 27lb rigid MTB w/ slicks.
...what everybody already said about road bike fit, LBS advice and all that...

Now, if you were in a situation where that was not possible, based on what you've said I would suggest that going for the smaller size is the way to go. You're not blazing any new trails here...it's called a "compact" frame fitting. The difference in seat tube angle between a 60 and a 62 or 63 should be around 1/2 degree at most. Use a little trig and you'll see that the difference in saddle position (fore/aft) is only around 1/4" or so. You won't have any problem dialing in the proper saddle position and the seatpost you use (setback or straight up) would probably have been the same in both situations.

And you also really don't want to messing around with the saddle position compensate for differences in the reach of the bike. The saddle should be dialed in relative to the bottom bracket and pedals. You'll use the stem to make adjustments to the reach.

On the front end, you want to be careful to get the proper reach forward and have the handlebars set at the right height. This is where an experienced fitter can really help out. Some positions are more aero or more powerful, others are easier on the back or the shoulders or the neck or the kiester. It's all about personal preference, fitness levels, what type of riding you are doing and what type of rider you are. But having said that...I believe that if you started with the smaller frame (and hopefully a steerer with some room for upward adjustment of the stem), you could probably get it set up where you wanted it with some combination of spacers and stem to get the right reach. You might using a bit longer stem than the next guy, and thereby be putting a bit more weight over the front wheel, but you would still probably be using parts that are more or less "normal"...maybe a 13 or 14cm stem instead of a 10 or 12. The bike will handle just fine...if anything a bit more responsive than the larger frame because it will have a shorter wheelbase. You won't be horsing around the bars like you do on a MTB so the longer stem should not have any real adverse effects on the handling of the bike.

When Frankie Andreau and George Hincapie (both very tall riders) were pulling for Armstrong in his early comeback Tours, they both rode stock Treks that were "too small" by conventional standards and had them set up with long seatposts and stems. Didn't seem to hurt their performances that much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again guys for the help thrown out in your replies. Seat position wise I know not to compromise that to make a cockpit bigger or smaller, you set it and then play with stem length. All I was saying was that using a 90mm stem on the 63cm instead of a 120mm on the 60cm would gain you the same setup and just move the saddle to where it's sposed to be.

As for the test rides there's no shop that stocks any great amount of bikes (only the one in the island actually, the other places basically carry wallyworld bikes) and I had thought of borrowing a couple bikes in that size (though there aren't to many in my size I know), but going for a 1 or 2 ride isn't going to tell you if a bike will fit IMHO you need to go for a nice long ride and I don't think too many people would be willing to laon out their bikes that long.

60cm seems to be the recomendation coming from most, but I just don't seem to like the idea of "scrunching" myself up on a frame that's maybe too small with a 130 or 140mm stem and the saddle too far over the rear wheel to make climbing harder. I'm getting the bike to train for a 100 mile off-road race w/ 18,000ft of gain, so I need to be doing a lot of climbing.
 

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sonicsuby said:
I just picked up a 58cm Specialized Allez. I'm 6'3 - 34" inseam. Go to your bike shop and test ride multiple different sized to find out what works for you. Then buy that.
Don't mean to re-hash a dead thread, but I thought I would ask about this. How is this bike working for you. I ride a 56cm Allez Elite (2004) and I'm 6'1". I can't seem to get comfortable on it. I'm always adjusting in the seat. I am thinking of selling it to move up to a 58cm bike.

Every roadie I talk to takes one look at me and says I need to be at a 58cm minimum at my height. Start making 'tweaks' from there. I was told that changing my stem, etc on the 56cm was almost forcing the bike to fit my body.

Just seems at 6'3" you'd be well into the 60cm's.
 
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